Wallace Sewell: The Elizabeth Line, Scarves, Ties, Textiles

Wallace Sewell first caught my attention for their beautiful use of colour and texture in fabrics for furnishings and textiles and I'm lucky enough to own a few scarves (see the image below) and ties in their gorgeous, varied, but highly characteristic designs. 

Wallace & Sewell moquette design for the Elizabeth Line

Wallace Sewell, texture, colour and design - made in the UK

I am reminded of them every time I travel on London's Underground. Why? The reason is that they are behind the designs of the fabrics used in the seating on several routes including The Overground and Tramlink services. Their 'Barman' design, incorporating several London landmarks including the London Eye, is seen on several lines. 

Most recently Wallace Sewell have interpreted the rich purple of the new Elizabeth Line to perfection in their moquette (a thick pile fabric for upholstery or carpets) for the seating of that line. The purples, mauves, greys, beige and splashes of orange and red are carefully designed to hide future wear and tear.

Above two images from Dezeen

Harriet and Emma, co-founders of Wallace Sewell, say about their designs:

"Emma - Our design for the Elizabeth line was a progression from a design we created for the precursor of Crossrail, the TFL Rail service running from Liverpool Street to Shenfield. This had been inspired by travelling the route and abstracting its surroundings into rectangles and linear motifs. For the Elizabeth line design, we worked into the pattern, adding more pinstripe details, as a nod to the suits of the City of London and creating a sense of speed, as the line travels from East to West. 

Harriet - The colour palette started with the specific shade of purple that is the line colour, to which we added other tones of purple, mixed with warmer and lighter shades to keep the fabric bright in overall effect, complementing the dark interior. The palette also incorporates flashes of others line colours that the route interacts with as accents. 

Emma - As with all our designs for TFL, we aim to create a complex pattern that is bold and dynamic, yet balanced in it’s repeat, and in this design we disguised this through repetition of simple motifs, so that the eye is drawn along the carriage whilst maintaining a vertical framework."

Wallace Sewell's moquette for The Elizabeth Line

Wallace Sewell - working on the artwork

Wallace Sewell's Elizabeth Line design necessarily lacks the multiple textures of many of their textiles which often use several types of yarn in their construction. However, the clever use and mix of colours and the vertical and horizontal nature of the designs is seen in both the moquette and other products like my scarves. All are recognisably Wallace Sewell. For readers of this blog, the scarves and ties are  must, but there is plenty on their website to tempt the admirer of contemporary British design. These pieces will be collectibles of the future.

For more on Wallace Sewell and their designs, and to purchase, go to Wallace Sewell.

Note: the scarves were gifted.

An Organic Ventile Smock from Hilltrek

I love a Ventile jacket and have owned several over the years. A cotton cloth, Ventile, as described below, is a densely woven cloth originally developed in the UK that is weatherproof and can be further waterproofed with a coating to the fabric. I've covered the history of Ventile (and its military uses) in previous features here on the blog and more information is given below, but my purpose here is to introduce the efforts being made by Ventile to produce sustainable products.

There are of course environmental concerns about cotton clothing and Ventile have taken steps to address these with the introduction of Ventile Eco Cotton. They offered to have a smock made for me by Scottish manufacturers, Hilltrek, who have made a jacket for me before.

The smock is beautifully made and, as I did, can be ordered with a number of options relating to size, placing of zips and pockets and colour. Hilltrek make a number of different styles of jacket and other outdoor clothing from their Scottish Highland facility and their clothes are made with a strong practical knowledge of the outdoor uses to which they will be put.

My smock has withstood several hours of heavy Cumbrian rain without failing, even at the seams. Of course, no clothing is truly and completely waterproof, but one advantage of Ventile is that it seems to be more breathable than many man-made fabrics and I find it comfortable to wear on a hard walk. In warmer conditions lighter Ventiles can be used and a zip-front jacket may be preferred, but this smock is ideal for hard conditions and I would wear it in winter conditions with suitable layers.

I asked Jordan Henderson, who represents Ventile, to answer a few questions about the cloth:

Q: What is it that makes Ventile a waterproof cloth? Can you tell us something about the manufacturing process?

A: Ventile is made from densely woven 100% cotton yarns which when wet, swell creating a weatherproof fabric. The manufacturing process is so skilled that there are only a handful of mills that can produce fabric using this method. Customers can also choose to add a DWR coating to the fabric.

Q: My jacket is made from organic cotton - tell us more about that? What makes it organic and how is it different to the cotton normally used to make Ventile?

A: Ventile Eco Organic is made from sustainably grown organic certified cottons that have not been exposed to pesticides or chemical fertilisers and use low-impact processing methods and materials. Ventile Eco Organic is woven from premium extra-long-staple cotton that represents only 0.04% of the overall cotton produced worldwide and the fibres used in Ventile Eco Organic fabric are GOTS (The Global Organic Textile Standard) certified.

Q: Is Ventile very different to the earliest forms of Ventile developed in the UK? If so, how?

A: To this day, Ventile is still sold to the British and Swedish Army. The fabric construction and properties are still comparable to what it was at the time. Today, Ventile are using modern machines which enhances the quality of the fabric.

Q: Where is Ventile made?

A: In 1930 Ventile was developed by a dedicated team of scientists from the Shirley Institute in Manchester. In 1980, as dyeing houses gradually declined, Talbot Weaving, the owners of Ventile, were no longer able to dye and finish Ventile in the UK. Production moved to Eastern Switzerland which has a solid reputation for quality finishing. Today, Ventile fabric continues to be produced in Switzerland.

Q: Are new forms of Ventile being developed for the future?

Ventile has recently launched Ventile Eco Blends which use blended fibres such as lyocell, linen and hemp:  Additionally, Ventile recently launched the Ventile Eco Recycled range which is the first high-performance fabric made entirely from recycled cotton. The pioneering fabric has been designed to achieve the best balance of performance, comfort, and sustainability to reduce overall textile waste, creating a durable and environmentally friendly resource for designers and fashion brands.

Links:

Ventile 

Hilltrek

Previous relevant blog features

The smock was provided as a review sample by Ventile and made by Hilltrek, whose wonderful products I highly recommend.

Outwear Ltd: Outdoor Clothing from Sasta, Crispi and Woolpower

Quality outdoor clothing has been a constant theme of this blog. There's something very satisfying about garments that are designed for a specific purpose: to reliably keep the wearer warm and dry. I was recently introduced to three brands new to me by their UK distributors, Outwear Ltd. They are Sasta, a Finnish family-run company making outdoor and work wear, Crispi which is an Italian footwear company and Swedish-based Woolpower which supplies mid and base layers made from sustainable wool.

From top left clockwise: Crispi GTX boots, Sasta Tervas red check wool jacket, Sasta Roihu grey wool jacket,
Sasta Peski blue Ventile parka, all trousers Sasta Naali, underwear and gloves from Woolpower

Sasta had a brief presence in the UK some 20 years ago, but have been largely forgotten here apart from a few who still wear their long-lasting products from that time. Their relaunch this year will be welcome to many who appreciate high quality outdoor clothing. They have their roots in the development of outdoor and hunting wear from woollen army uniforms. 

I tried two of their wool jackets, a Ventile smock and cotton Gore-Tex lined trousers. Worn in the wet and cold of a Cumbrian winter they quickly became favourites. The recycled wool cloth is warm, breathable, wind resistant and even stood up to an hour of fairly heavy rain without leaking uncomfortably.

I'm a great fan of both Ventile (the waterproof cotton cloth originally developed in the UK and worn by RAF pilots as survival suits) and over-the-head anoraks, so I found Sasta's blue Ventile Peski smock almost perfect. This is just the sort of thing that Edmund Hillary would have worn in Antarctica or on Everest and its classic utilitarian nature embodies what I love about traditional outdoor wear. It could be used for serious mountain walking, especially in winter, as it's a well-designed, stylish and practical garment that provides real protection from wind, rain and snow - or would double as an effective ski jacket. I tried the medium size which provided plenty of volume for layering without being over-baggy.

One sign of a well-designed outdoor coat is that the hood adjusts well and moves with you as you turn your head; some jackets, even pricey ones, have hoods that severely cut down your visibility by failing to move as you look round. On both the Ventile parka and the grey wool jacket, the hoods fitted and adjusted to perfection (the red check jacket doesn't have a hood). Well designed pockets and fastenings are also important and all three coats were ideal and practical for rugged outdoor use.

The Sasta recycled wool jackets are warm, windproof, showerproof as well as being stylish

The Sasta trousers, with a Gore-Tex inner lining, were among the best I've worn for outdoor wear. They are not over-trousers, but make perfect waterproof and wind resistant leg protection without being too baggy or restricting movement. 

All the Sasta garments worked well in damp and chilly conditions and I will be very sorry to return them whence they came. With their heritage in Scandinavian hunting and workwear they are practical and strong. The recycled wool jackets may not be for high level mountain use as they are heavier than clothing made for those purposes - they are made to be robust and well as warm - but for country walks and sports, camping and outdoor workwear they are perfect. I particularly liked the buffalo check Tervas jacket, with its nod to US mackinaw hunting jackets. It's good to see something a little different and stylish for outdoor wear.

When I first wore Sasta's garments on Instagram there was considerable interest from women and I'm pleased to say that they also offer a range for women.

The Italian Crispi boots were immediately comfortable. Designed with a mid-height ankle they are a very practical alternative to walking shoes in wet conditions. I was initially concerned that the sneaker style lacing would compromise water resistance but this didn't turn out to be the case and the Gore-Tex lining worked well in very wet boggy conditions. The Vibram sole is grippy and better than many on wet rock. This is a medium weight boot for all but the most rugged conditions, whether for work or walks.

The Crispi Monaco GTX boots are waterproof, well-designed and comfortable

Good quality base and mid-layers, like those from Woolpower, are essentials which are often overlooked. A cotton t-shirt is not going to provide the warmth and wicking qualities of proper undergarments. Wool provides exactly what is needed without the disadvantages of microfibre producing man-made fabrics which can also get very smelly when the wearer gets sweaty.

Woolpower is based in northern Sweden where extremes of weather make the need for warmth paramount. The merino wool ‘Ulfrotte Original’ material is a terry loop fabric to ensure comfort, flexibility and supreme warmth against the body. I tried a long sleeved crew neck undervest (which is made of a circular knit and with no lengthwise seams) and had a good long back so it stays tucked in, a pair of wrist gaiters (which keep the wrist and back of the hand warm but allow the fingers freedom of movement) and some very warm and comfortable terry knit merino-mix socks. 

The Woolpower crew neck has the name tag of the person who made it sewn into it and this pride in what they make extends to a record being made of the supply chain of the wool from sheep to manufacture. Using these products I was reminded why wool is so effective at keeping sheep warm and dry. All were flexible and remained comfortable whether I was climbing and perspiring or sitting in the cold admiring the view.

I was very impressed by all these brands from Outwear Ltd, who supply the professional outdoor worker and outdoor enthusiast with premium clothing. You will find many excellent products on their website. For more information, see Outwear Limited.

This is a paid collaboration with Outwear Ltd.

Sustainable Style 11: STOW Slow Travel Collection

Carol Lovell, founder of luxury travel accessories business, STOW, got in touch to tell me about their new SLOW collection of travel goods and she kindly sent me a Weekender bag to try out. I've featured STOW products here on before (link below) and have always been impressed by their careful design and construction.

The STOW SLOW Weekender bag (bottom right)

I selected the Weekender in a classic natural colour with tan leather trim. It's beautifully made and is one of those items of luggage that will improve with wear. Lined with a cherry red Alcantara interior with zipped and unzipped pockets, it's been designed to be as sustainably made as possible and the canvas is wipe clean. The Weekender also comes in earth brown and moss colours with different linings. Preorder for October has now opened (link below).

I used the Weekender for a recent week away and, despite its reasonably compact size (52cm (L) x 27cm (H) x 24cm (D)), it held plenty: shoes, reading matter, laptop and sundry clothing. It's become a firm favourite already, with its classic good looks and robust feel. The collection also includes matching make up/grooming bag and wash bag.

The complete STOW SLOW collection

I asked Carol Lovell to tell me more about the STOW SLOW collection:

GF: You mentioned to me that travellers are increasingly thinking of more sustainable ways of travelling - could you expand on that?

CL: The biggest threat facing our future is global warming. We have been aware of this for years but lockdown really showed us how the natural world has been suffering as we watched. 

People are now even more aware of the environmental impact of travel than they were pre lockdown. During lockdown we saw the benefits of giving the planet a rest from travel and so while people still want to travel, they will commit to doing it better - we were heading that way anyway but the pandemic has given us a push to be more mindful. 

Maybe it’s wishful thinking on my part and I have no figures to back up my views but I believe people will seek out less harmful ways of travelling where they can, or change the type of travel they do. For example, short haul weekend city breaks by air - we will start to cut down on those and consider breaks within the UK, accessed by train or car. Not just because travel is still severely curtailed by the pandemic, but because it’s better for the environment and lockdown has shown us the beauty of what’s on our doorstep. I am not saying everyone has to stop travelling , rather that we all do our bit to reduce our own impact. 

I hope that those who travel excessively for business reduce their air miles considerably and use virtual communications much more where possible. I hope that when people take a holiday they really question the impact of the holiday - is it helpful to the local economy AND natural surroundings. Who is profiting? And when people do fly they consider offsetting their carbon. 

The STOW Weekender bag

GF: How do those thoughts reflect in the new collection? 

CL: The “SLOW Collection” began as a climate-conscious project inspired by travels closer to home, while I was hiking in the Brecon Beacons in May and Sept of 2019. 

I made a pledge to travel more mindfully in 2020 with trips subsequently booked that included one long haul flight for charitable travel to Nepal, a health stay in France I would reach by train in a bid to reduce flying hours, and a reservation to holiday with family in the summer in the UK, which we all mainly ended up having to do anyway. Business trips to the factory in Spain would only be made if necessary and there would be no short haul airline travel for weekend breaks. 

I wanted to design a collection that would echo a slowing down of the types of travel I envisaged that would be great for weekends, domestic adventures and trips closer to home. I wanted them to be light, yet durable and the materials had to practice the preach. 

The main material is a wipe- clean, bio-degradable cotton canvas made in Spain by Textilin. This is paired with STOW’s renowned soft luxury leather, sourced from a Spanish LWG (Leather Working Group) rated tannery. Each design is fitted with eco-friendly linings made in Italy. The two smaller pieces’ distinctive orange lining is sourced from an Italian supplier, Gipitex, who practice Chemical Management for Sustainability. The Weekenders’ luxurious Alcantara lining is produced by a carbon neutral and leading sustainability fabric supplier in Italy.

The palette of the collection is drawn from my observations of close up colours I came cross in the Brecon mountains and North Cornwall. Rocks marshes, leaves, berries, walls. I took endless pictures! 

GF: With travel changing, how do you see the brand developing and what are your plans for the future?

CL: When I started STOW I carved a niche out for us by referring to STOW as THE destination for luxury small travel accessories. No one else was solely focused entirely on this product sector. It stood us in good stead - and got us noticed along with our bold colours. However, obviously our products can be used both for travel and at home so we have started to emphasise that more in our marketing and content. 

The STOW Weekender in moss greenn

Having said that people will always be on the move (near or far), and STOW will always be here to provide gorgeous luxurious and practical products for their storage needs. 

GF: Do you have a favourite travel destination and where is it? Which one piece from the new collection would you take?

CL: That’s an impossible question for me to answer so I have to say Western Coast of Scotland, Maui and Cape Town. All have mountains for walking, all are near water and all have incredible food. For a long weekend in Scotland I would take the Weekender Bag with me by train. Light, roomy and with long wide handles for pain free shoulder carriage. It also has a large internal pocket for a laptop. 

For more information on the STOW SLOW collection, click here.

For previous features on STOW click here. 

Read other features in my Sustainable Style series here.

The bag was sent to me for review. All views are mine alone.

Oliver Spencer x Brompton Cycles Blazer

There is nothing new in the idea of a blazer designed for cycling, but the conflicting demands on it require clever design. The city cyclist and commuter needs a jacket he can wear on the bike and which is also wearable in the office. Oliver Spencer has collaborated with Brompton Cycles, whose folding commuter bikes are famous worldwide, to make a practical, comfortable and exceptionally well-designed blazer for all-round use.

The Oliver Spencer x Brompton Cycles Blazer

Features needed for such a jacket start with the cloth: an airy, flexible, weather and crease resistant fabric is essential. Then comes requirements like reflective sections, good and secure pockets and a means of carrying the coat over the shoulders if removed. It needs to fit well, the should be longer than usual to accommodate reach to the handlebars, an action back helps reach and movement while cycling and finally the garment needs to be robust.

Oliver Spencer is no stranger to garment design and his blazer has all these features. On first seeing my review sample I was immediately struck by the feel, quality and the complexity of the construction. There is even a cloth messenger bag with a shoulder strap that provides yet another way of carrying the blazer (which can be folded up small without creasing) when removed - fiendishly clever.

Some of the features of the Oliver Spencer x Brompton Cycles blazer

This is a remarkable garment, the product of exceptional design and construction. A small observation relates to the sleeves, which are, of necessity, longer than normal to cover the wrists when riding. For those who notice that the cuffs ride down over the top of the hands when off the bike, I wondered if a further set of cuff buttons, or a Velcro closure, would have allowed them to be tightened to keep the cuffs in place; but this is a minor point indeed.

The fabric is stretchy and the jacket feels comfortable to wear - particularly when riding - yet it looks good off the bike as well. There are a lot of excellent features packed into a blazer costing £385. Go to Oliver Spencer for more information and to buy.

See also Brompton Cycles for information on these London-made folding bikes.

This is an unsponsored post. The blazer was given to me for this review.

Kalabash Bodycare: An Interview With Sharron Jenkins

Looking around for small businesses to bring to your attention during the covid-19 lockdown has been a fascinating process. So many entrepreneurs have had their dreams badly affected and any support we can give them is invaluable in ensuring their survival. 

I came across Kalabash Bodycare (link below) and, struck by the exotic names of the soaps and other body care products, I approached founder Sharron Jenkins who kindly sent me some to try out. 

Sharron Jenkins, founder of Kalabash Bodycare

Lemongrass and marigold soap

They arrived beautifully packaged  and I was immediately struck by their scents and appearance. I now use her lemongrass and marigold artisan soap instead of my usual shower gel as it leaves a beautifully fresh citrus scent and of course it's more sustainable than using a product from a plastic bottle. I also use her bay rum and avocado as an exotic and frothy shave soap.

Impressed, I asked Sharron to tell me more about her brand and she told me how she started the brand and something about how the products are made and her approach to sustainability (she uses the highest quality materials and no palm oil in her soaps):

GF: Please introduce yourself and your business, Kalabash Bodycare.

SJ: I’m Sharron Jenkins the owner and founder of Kalabash, an award-winning British natural handcrafted soap and body care brand which recently celebrated its first anniversary in business.

In the late 1950s, my Windrush parents left Dominica, aka “The Nature Island of the Caribbean” and travelled to the UK, where they married and had a family.

I still have vivid memories of our only family holiday. After many years of working and saving this was my parents’ first trip back home after 20 years. This six-week tropical adventure went on to inspire a lifelong passion for tropical plants, gardening and creativity.

When at the age of 9, I arrived in Dominica all those years ago, I'd never stepped outside London, let alone the country. I was struck by its beauty immediately and the warmth of the sun. The sight, colours, smell and taste of fresh mangoes, bananas, cocoa, coconuts, oranges, limes and much more which hung ready to pick and eat from trees all over the island were dazzling.

The memories of my parents’ Garden of Eden homeland, with its dense rainforests, looming mountains and tropical gardens, watered by numerous rivers and streams which crisscross the island made a lasting impression which later inspired Kalabash.

The entire Kalabash range celebrates my West Indian heritage. The Caribbean’s abundant natural resources, rich culture, breath-taking landscapes and vibrant tropical plant biodiversity are key influences.\

Sharron makes the soaps at home

GF: How did you come to start out in a business making soap and other products?

SJ: In 2002, after years of working in a London office and on a career break, I enrolled on a Royal Horticultural Society course in horticulture and an accredited Garden Design course at Capel Manor College in Enfield north London. I studied part-time for 2 years combining part-time study and motherhood whilst getting my hands dirty in several London gardens as a jobbing gardener. I then went on to set myself up as a Garden Designer, specialising in plants and planting design.

As I worked outside year-round, I noticed that the weather and London pollution was playing havoc with my dry sensitive skin which was being stripped it of its natural moisture. I searched in vain for nourishing natural plant-based skincare products scented with pure essential oils, that were kind to both my skin and to the environment.

Very few natural skincare products were around at the time and many mainstream products were chemically laden. Sustainability, ethical sourcing, addressing waste and the environmental impact of the cosmetics industry were often overlooked.

So, I combined my extensive plant knowledge and trawled the internet for information on formulating natural skincare. As I developed my skills I became aware of a gap in the market for a nature inspired skincare brand with a Caribbean twist. After several months of experimentation and research, I recreated Dominica’s warm tropical scents and fragrances in my own range of natural handmade soap and bodycare products which I gave away to family and friends who loved them.

Soaps being made

GF: Who makes the products and how do you select the ingredients?

SJ: After taking a small business course in 2006, I launched Kalabash or Calabash Handmade as it was known then, from its London HQ (my kitchen in Finchley north London) and the brand began to flourish.

Sadly a few years later, life forced me to press the pause button and pack my dream safely away for another time as I returned to office life for a more stable income as a single mum.

In 2018 after a 12-year hiatus it was time for a career change. My children had grown up, left home and were making their own way in the world. With my new-found independence, I started work on relaunching my business. 

I had a clear idea of how I wanted to develop and update the original product range and spent an entire year reformulating the soap collection to remove all traces of palm oil from the original formulas.

Replacing the palm was not as quick or easy as I’d anticipated as I use the cold process soap making technique to make each batch of soap which takes around 6 weeks to complete. Changing the formula involved a lot of experimenting with various ingredient combinations, waiting for the soap to cure (around 4 weeks) and then testing its efficacy.

I gathered lots of feedback from my friends and family who were recruited as testers. With their help, I tweaked the formula until I was satisfied with the finished product, a cleansing, moisturising long lasting bar of natural soap with a smooth bubbly lather, free of palm oil, synthetic dyes, colourants or perfume.

With its packaging completely redesigned the brand was finally resurrected, renamed, and relaunched in March 2019.

My persistence paid off. I was incredibly proud when my Naked Pearl Unscented Artisan Soap Bar for sensitive skin (which is base formula for the entire range) was awarded a Green Parent Magazine Best Buy Award just 3 months after launch!

I use the Bay Rum soap as a shaving soap

GF: Tell us about the products you make - are they for men and women?

SJ: For nearly two decades now I've been creating natural soap and organic body care products by hand in small batches suitable both men and women. I select the highest quality Caribbean derived natural ingredients, which are skin-nourishing, effective and plant-based. They include amongst others, avocado, aloe vera, coconut, castor and papaya oils as well as mango, organic fairtrade cocoa, and shea butters.

To keep things 100% natural, I add colour and texture to the soap with herbs, spices, flowers and clays instead of synthetic dyes, and use pure aromatherapy grade essential oils with scents that evoke momentary Caribbean escapism and nurture the skin.

As well as handmade soap, I offer a small collection of award-winning organic body oils. Muscle relaxing mineral bath salts enriched with moisturising coconut oil are also available. Last Autumn I diversified into candle making and released a collection of slow burning hand poured soy wax essential oil candles to complement my artisan soap collection with warm evocative scents.

Once I’ve made a batch of soap I individually hand cut and hand stamp each bar with a Kalabash monogram, before carefully gift wrapping and packaging them into stylish plastic-free reusable/recyclable branded gift boxes

Each of the hefty 120g long-lasting bars is made from the base formulation of my award-winning unscented “Naked Pearl” bar.

Their names are the legacy of my childhood trip to the "Nature Island":

Black Sand Beach (Activated Charcoal)

Creole Rose (Amyris, Geranium & Pink Clay)

Nature Island Spice (Bay Rum & Avocado)

Shea Paradise (Lavender & Shea Butter)

Tropical Sunshine (West Indian Lemongrass & Marigold)

Naked Pearl (Unscented)

Sustainability and zero waste are a big part of the business ethos. To reflect this, I’ve curated a collection of sustainable gift ideas by combining various Kalabash products with sustainable accessories presented in luxurious sustainable gift boxes which make unique gifts.

Bay Rum candle from Kalabash Bodycare

GF: How do you see the business and the products you offer developing over the next few years?

SJ: My plans for my second year in business have been impacted by the recent health emergency like most other businesses. My main objective for the immediate future is to keep moving forward as best I can by raising awareness of the brand and staying optimistic for the future.

I had planned to broaden the product range by adding an exfoliating sugar cane body scrub, a multi-purpose skin balm and an aloe vera body butter. But, I’ve decided to press the pause button on these until the present storm has passed and avoid the costly and lengthy R&D process of bringing new products to market for now. Instead, I’m focussing on adding two new Summer fragrances to the candle collection, building my online customer base and wholesale stockists.

In time, I'd like to see Kalabash grow and displayed on the shelves of small independent boutique retailers worldwide, eco-friendly boutique hotels, spas and barbershops and well as being offered as sustainable corporate gifts.

For now, my mission continues to be to make high-quality small-batch products which enhance your grooming and wellness routines by evoking Caribbean escapism.

Kalabash products are available online at www.kalabashbodycare.com - please support this wonderful brand.

Some products were gifted - this is an unsponsored post.

Relaxing with Mulo: Casual Shoes

I'm sitting here (see below) during lock down wearing a pair of Mulo slippers which they kindly sent to me a few months ago. I try to maintain an element of sartorial show even when stuck at home. Normally a pair of slippers might not fit this approach, but somehow the suede uppers and sheepskin lining put these above the common or garden carpet slipper.

Mulo was founded in 2012 and, as well as slippers, they make loafers, sneakers and espadrilles - all ideal for lock down relaxation and, once this is over, for the much-needed holiday. 

They are designed in London and made in Portugal around a traditional last. Hand-stitched using premium suede and other materials with cushioned interiors with arch support, these are durable, comfortable casual footwear.

Here's a British brand to support during these difficult times. They are open for online sales; prices from £105 to £175. See Mulo.

This is unsponsored.

Dashel: Stylish Cycle Helmets Made in England

Cycle helmets aren't obligatory in the UK, but when a helmet is lightweight, comfortable and stylish there's every reason to wear one. Dashel make two types of helmet here in the UK. They're similar in looks, but one is handmade from carbon fibre and the other injection moulded by machine. 

Designer Catherine Bedford spotted a gap in the market for high quality and stylish cycling helmets - fashion accessories rather than sporting accessories - British-made with an emphasis on sustainable and ethical manufacture.

Sporting a carbon fibre Dashel helmet with a vintage cycling jersey

These aren't helmets for leg-waxing, Lycra-clad, Bradley Wiggins wannabes whose sweaty sporty endeavours require ultra light weight and vast amounts of ventilation. Dashel helmets are for the commuter, the tourist, the dawdler, the towpath wanderer, the tweed cyclist and trips to the shops or the gym.

With a touch of Jim Clarke or Fangio, they are vintage motor racing in looks - and why not? They are essential where style is a prerequisite; where a cycle racer's helmet is going to look out of place and your outfit is more sartorial than Lycra. And they are recyclable.

With Catherine Bedford, founder of Dashel Cycling Helmets

The carbon fibre helmet is very slightly lighter in weight than the injection moulded model, but both have the same levels of comfort, ventilation and safety. They come in a good range of colours, subtle or bright - I selected a British racing green carbon fibre helmet. It comes with instructions to ensure you achieve a good fit using the removable pads and easily adjustable straps. Once adjusted properly it sits well on the head and is soon forgotten as it's so light and comfortable. 

Prices £79 for the standard model and £185 for the carbon fibre. See Dashel for more information and to buy.

I was sent a helmet for review. This feature is not sponsored and all views are mine.

Stow Leather Watch Roll: Carry Your Timepieces in Luxury & Style

Many of you see wristwatches as part of the style equation. For me, this means taking a small selection of watches with me when I travel: the chunky diver for the beach or mountain walks, the dress watch for formal events, the chronograph for when we need to time our boiled eggs or that vital re-entry burn and the sports watch for almost everything else.

The problem is how to transport these precious timepiece. Rolling them into a sock has the disadvantage that you forget them and they fly out onto the floor when you unpack. A cardboard box stuffed with bubblewrap doesn't seem have the necessary class and sophistication for a loved watch collection. I think I've found the solution:

The Stow Sanderson Watch Roll - ideal for the watch-loving traveller

The Stow Sanderson watch roll is made from Spanish leather and Italian suede. It feels soft and luxurious, comfortably taking three watches (or you can replace part with a stud box). A soft grey  leather complements a denim blue suede interior and it measures some 230mm x 90mm (other colours are available).

Stow's watch roll is the perfect solution for those wanting to carry a small collection of watches without resorting to a rolled-up sock. See Stow for more information, pricing and how the roll can be personalised.

See my feature on the Stow leather Tech Case here.

This product was gifted - this feature is otherwise unsponsored.

Martin Hartley Expedition Photographs at Shackleton Store

Expedition outerwear specialists, Shackleton, have opened a seasonal store in London (details below) and are showing images by expedition photographer Martin Hartley alongside their clothing. The images record the drive that encourages men and women to leave the comfort of their homes to explore new horizons.

Ann Daniels, Arctic Ocean Survey Expedition 2010 - first woman to reach both poles as part of all-women teams

Top of World, Resolute Bay, Canada. Pen Hadow in 2003 before his solo ski from Canada to the North Pole

Martin has spent 19 years documenting the Arctic Ocean, covering over 2000 miles on skis, including a 99-day crossing from Russia to Canada. He was nominated by Time Magazine as one of their Heroes of the Environment in 2009 in recognition of his work with the Catlin Arctic Survey, documenting sea ice and ocean acidification.

On his next expedition this year Martin will be working with the European Space Agency and National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration to record the oldest remaining sea ice in the Arctic Ocean before it is lost forever to global warming.

George Lowe's Leica IIIf carried on the successful 1953 Everest expedition and later on the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctica Expedition, the first crossing of the continent

Wally Herbert's Trans-Arctic Crossing Expedition flag 1968-9

The exhibition features 11 photographs, all of which are for sale. 

Shackleton's seasonal store (a pop up really) is at 68 Duke Street, London, W1K 6JU until the end of February 2020 - next to the Leica store. See the Shackleton website.

See my previous feature on Shackleton here.

Comments: Please note that I have now disabled comments on my blog because of the huge volume of spam. However, I welcome and encourage discussion on my Instagram feed where, if you follow me, you can leave your thoughts and queries and where I will respond as soon as I can. 

Serac T1: Scandinavian Luxury Parka

As I unpacked the SERAC® T1 parka several things struck me. Firstly, this is a superbly well-made coat which oozes quality. The details are what makes a luxury garment. The removable down collar and huge hood, multiple pockets, British Millerain shell and down insulation make this a serious and highly adaptable coat for cold and damp weather. 

Wearing the SERAC T1 on a cold, damp day

More than this, the fit is outstanding - warm and close while almost athletic in the freedom of movement allowed by the advanced design. Cuffs have zips for ultimate adjustment, the back has two vents for comfort and ventilation, tech is catered for in the pocket sizing, inside is soft and warm, a  tough exterior protects from the elements and the shape is clean and elegant. Any colour is available, as long as it's black; no doubt in recognition of Henry Ford's belief that such compromises improve quality and efficiency of manufacture.

SERAC® (link below) was established in 2016 by Industrial Designer Tore Mortvedt. A skier and outdoor enthusiast from Bergen in Norway, known for its harsh and wet climate, he was naturally drawn to outerwear design. His 20 year long career in the industry began at luxury children’s company Stokke, where he led several design projects. His successes there led him to the position of lead designer for technical outerwear at Helly Hansen, a brand with a heritage of innovations steeped in sailing, skiing and outdoors. This breadth of experience has informed his designs at Serac.

Wearing the Serac T1 with hood and down collar removed

Tore is motivated by concerns about over-consumption - our desire to buy new for the sake of it - and his view that we should buy clothes that will last and that are of the best quality so as to be an investment for years to come. He is aiming to make a jacket for life, not one that will fall apart and have to be replaced - this is a question of sustainability and the sensible use of scarce resources. 

The SERAC T1 is made in Italy by a company that makes coats to highest manufacturing standards for international designer brands, the British Millerain shell is made from waterproof and washable waxed cotton and insulated with a high performance Primaloft down blend. The sophistication and complexity of its construction means that each coat takes some 8 hours to make.

Style-wise this is an ideal blend of cool city coat with a hint of explorer chic. It's a meld of the best of tailoring with the best of industrial design. The price reflects the highest standards of design and construction. At €2,350.00 this is designed to be the ultimate coat for life and I've no doubt that it will be. See SERAC for more information.

The coat was sent to me for review. This is an unsponsored feature.

Comments: Please note that I have now disabled comments on my blog because of the huge volume of spam. However, I welcome and encourage discussion on my Instagram feed where, if you follow me, you can leave your thoughts and queries and where I will respond as soon as I can. 

Groundtruth - Travel Goods from 100% Recycled Plastic

Three sisters, Sophia and Georgia (experienced documentary film makers with Groundtruth Productions) and Nina Scott, with a background in textiles and technical fabric development, have come together to produce travel goods made from 100% recycled plastics under the Groundtruth name. 

The Scott sisters; founders of Groundtruth

We hear every day about sustainable products and the need to do something positive to save a world fast plunging into environmental disaster. The sisters are driven by a genuine desire to make a real change to the environment and to people.  Their Groundtruth brand has launched with a backpack, tech pouches, iPad bags and a camera bag which I've had the chance to use for a while.

Part of the RIKR range, the back pack is made from 120 recycled bottles £283

The RIKR camera bag (below) is well-made and thoughtfully designed: padded and with a suspension system to hold a lens securely and protecting it from shocks. It's storm proof, has a shoulder strap and uses some 20 bottle in its production. It will fit a large camera and lens and has storage for memory cards, a tripod and items such as bottle and umbrella. At £89 it's good value too.

The Groundtruth RIKR camera bag - well made and excellent value

It's good to see genuine efforts made to offer sustainably produced products. Ultimately, of course, we must all take responsibility by buying fewer, considering higher quality and better-lasting objects and thinking carefully about whether we really need so much. 

Groundtruth's bags are well-made and look as if they will last well. All are stylish and durable, made from 100 per cent recycled plastic and other components. At present you can have any colour as long as it's black, but this is the most practical colour anyway and other colours will become available. The plan is to offer further travel goods next year.

Prices from £14 to £283. See Groundtruth for more information and to buy.

Comments: Please note that I have now disabled comments on my blog because of the huge volume of spam. However, I welcome and encourage discussion on my Instagram feed where, if you follow me, you can leave your thoughts and queries and where I will respond as soon as I can. 

Shackleton x Leica Cameras Parka

I'm a fan of the Shackleton parka and wore one last year to Antarctica, testing it in early summer conditions at sea and on land. This year, Shackleton has collaborated with Leica to produce an extreme weather photographer's parka, the Frank Hurley, after the man who documented Shackleton's 1914-17 Imperial Trans Antarctic Expedition. 

Hurley's superb images included those of their ship, Endurance, crushed in the polar ice. He and Shackleton had to select which to keep and which to destroy as not all of the heavy glass plates could be taken in the lifeboats in their remarkable voyage to rescue on South Georgia.

The Italian-made [I apologise that originally I said British-made which refers to other Shackleton products] Shackleton x Leica parka is designed to function to -25 degrees Celsius and has many features designed for the photographer in cold conditions. As I know myself, keeping batteries warm and yet accessible is essential in extreme cold and the parka has some 15 pockets and an external one for the camera itself.

Price £1950 from Shackleton.

Leica Cameras.

Comments: Please note that I have now disabled comments on my blog because of the huge volume of spam. However, I welcome and encourage discussion on my Instagram feed where, if you follow me, you can leave your thoughts and queries and where I will respond as soon as I can. 

Bamford Watch Department Limited Edition Popeye GMT Watch

There's a tendency for watch people, owners and manufacturers, to take their products very seriously. George Bamford, founder of Bamford Watch Department, is an exception to this, as the newly launched Limited Edition Popeye GMT watch demonstrates. 

George Bamford started his business some years ago applying a black finish to high-end Rolex watches, something that no doubt had Rolex aficionados weeping into their negronis and certainly voided the manufacturer's warranty. 

Since those early days, the watch customisation service has become mainstream, with brands like Tag Heuer, Bulgari and Zenith happily allowing Bamford to customise their watches to customers' preferences with, as I've seen, very fine results. When you can have your favourite Zenith El Primero chronograph customised to your tastes, it adds to the pleasures of ownership. See my earlier feature on BWD.

But Bamford also makes its own watches, costing from £350, they offer something a little different to the mainstream. This 50-piece Limited Edition Popeye GMT watch, priced at £1500, is just launched and adds a touch of humour to the range. 

The watch arrives, naturally, in a spinach tin

Celebrating the 90th anniversary of Popeye, it commands a £400 premium over the other Bamford GMT watches, but given its limited nature and the collectibility of such a piece I'd say this is a fair price. 

It's a mechanical watch (Swiss-made automatic Sellita movement) with a 24-hour GMT function for travellers in the form of a central hand and rotating internal bezel to allow you to track time in two time zones (although, thinking about it, you could use these functions to track three time zones). The navy and white colour scheme is a tribute to Popeye's seafaring background. The case is 40mm wide and the watch is water resistant to 100m.

I'm sorely tempted myself as I love anything that shows a bit of humour and character and this watch does just that. See Bamford Watch Department for the Limited Edition Popeye GMT watch.

This is an unsponsored post.

Men's Fragrances for Summer Travel

As the weather warms up I tend to go to fresher, lighter fragrances for travel and summer use. For me, heat and humidity go best with a refreshing citrus scent. It's not that I don't like woody/spicy fragrances; they're among my favourites, but I prefer the sharpness of lemon to more complex notes when the weather is warm. 

Some may prefer floral products, but for me they are less effective at cutting through the sticky discomfort of a summer's day. Of course a purely citrus scent would soon pale, so it needs some florals or spice to support it, but the balance mustn't take away that refreshing sharpness.

Some summer fragrances for men - links below

I've picked out from my cupboard the products I reach for as it gets warmer. Most start with citrus notes while some, like Flaneur, are more floral, others more spicy - but all are refreshing. King's Wood from Shay & Blue becomes woody with a melon tone but remains very fresh, while Tom Daxon's new Laconia remains sharply citrus. You can never go wrong with Floris (JF) or Acqua di Parma (Colonia Pura) which introduce other welcome scents. A firm favourite of mine is D.R. Harris's Windsor where citrus meets ginger. Gruhme No. 14 I use all year.

There are many more, of course, that I'd use in summer and you will have your own preferences. Do let me know what your recommendations are. Please remember that fragrances are a very personal thing and you should try on if you can before buying. 

Remember also that if you're flying with your favourite fragrances you will need to check regulations to see what volume of such products you can carry, but most small bottles will be 50 or 100mg.

Tom Daxon

Gruhme

Flaneur from Chap Magazine

Floris

Acqua di Parma

D.R. Harris

Shay & Blue

This is an unsponsored post. Some of these products were gifted in the past, but not for this feature.

Apollo 11 and the Omega Speedmaster Pro: The Watch that Landed on the Moon

This week sees the 50th anniversary of the first Moon landing by Apollo 11 (on 20th July 1969) and the first walk by Neil Armstrong the next day. Those of my age will have vivid memories of those events, but it's otherwise hard to find a direct tangible link to the Moon landing. However, there is one object that was used by the astronauts that we can all have a part of; their Omega Speedmaster Professional watches.

Buzz Aldrin on the Moon. His Omega Speedmaster can be seen on his right wrist. Amstrong's reflection can be seen in Aldrin's visor. Armstrong took the photos so there are no good quality images of him on the surface.

On and off over the years I've enjoyed collecting vintage wristwatches. The watch that started this enthusiasm was the Omega Speedmaster Professional. The reason was simple: I could wear a watch identical to those worn on the Moon and by many astronauts and cosmonauts. Tool watches, made and used for a purpose, have to be robust, legible and minimally designed - all, for me, highly desirable qualities.

Omega Speedmasters on Armstrong's wrist at pre-launch breakfast, a geology field trip and with Buzz Aldrin's suit

NASA and the Omega Speedmaster

The Speedmaster was NASA's official watch because it was robust and accurate. It was selected and purchased initially from a local watch shop and Omega themselves were not involved - so the watches used were off the peg, standard models.

Omega Speedmaster watches from the sixties (left) and now (right) as worn in the film First Man. The differences are hard to see & are mainly internal

Within its rapidly accelerating space programme in 1964, NASA had gone in search of a wristwatch that it could qualify for its manned missions. Many brands submitted their timepieces for the punishing tests, but only the OMEGA Speedmaster survived. As a result, it was declared “Flight Qualified for all Manned Space Missions” on the 1^st of March, 1965.

Buzz Aldrin wears his Omega Speedmaster in the command module of Apollo 11

Omega became the only official supplier of watches for NASA’s Human Space Flight Program. It was used throughout the final Mercury Missions and the Gemini, Apollo, Skylab and Apollo-Soyuz programs.

The Speedmaster Professional has since gone through many guises, but the basic mechanical model (it has appeared in quartz form) is essentially unchanged in outward appearance since the sixties. The original beautiful calibre 321 movement was replaced in the late sixties by the easier to manufacture cal. 861 and later 1861 (the modern variation) and this is still used in the watch available today. All these movements are hand-wound so need winding daily - not being automatic adds to their robustness.

Omega earlier this year announced the return of the cal. 321 and it has been used in the gold limited edition of the Speedmaster for the 50th anniversary of Apollo 11.

Ed White wears an Omega Speedmaster for the US's first space walk on Gemini IV on 3rd June 1965

The Speedmaster Pro is still worn in space, until recently on the Shuttle and on ISS. It's even been used for EVAs (extra-vehicular activity) where its mechanical robustness and simplicity gives it the edge over its battery-powered cousins (see above: Ed White's first US EVA in June 1965). 

Omega advertising c.1968

Buying an Omega Speedmaster Professional

The question here is, new or old?

If you're looking for a vintage cal. 321 vintage watch, like those worn in the early days of space flight, I urge caution. Over the years these have been repaired, serviced and had parts replaced. The best investment is one that has its original parts and has been kept regularly serviced. You will need reliable and expert advice when choosing. Budget from £7,000 and much more for a 1960s model in good condition. A good one will be a cast-iron investment. 

You may be be reluctant to wear such collectible watch on a daily basis. As an alternative look for a later cal. 861 or a used modern example where you can spend from around £2000. This will provide a watch that you can wear regularly without worrying too much about it.

The Speedmaster Pro is a reliable and robust timekeeper; that's why NASA chose it, so wear it as it was intended; a tool watch to be bashed around and used well; but remember it wasn't designed to be very water resistant, so I wouldn't wear even a new one for swimming or in the shower.

Budget additionally for a service every few years; this will cost several hundred pounds, but it's important to look after a complicated chronograph movement.

A brand new Omega Speedmaster Pro can be bought in its basic form from around £3800 - see Omega's website for more information. Omega often bring out special editions such as the limited edition gold and steel 50th Anniversary Apollo 11 watches. These are eagerly snapped up by collectors and those looking for an investment. If you're not in one of those categories I suggest you look for a basic model or a used or vintage example of the models actually used in space (cal. 321 or 861). 

Cosmonaut Elena Serova wears a mechanical Omega Speedmaster Pro (on left arm) and quartz Speedmaster X-33 (right arm) on a flight to the International Space Station in 2014

This is an unsponsored post.