Monk Straps: The Cinderella of Shoes?

Monk strap shoes tend to be overlooked in favour of oxford, derbies, sneakers and loafers, but they offer both comfort and style and are worth your consideration when next buying shoes for casual or formal use. 

I wear Loake Medway suede monks (socks Peper Harow) - all made in England

I acquired my first pair (pictured above) only two or three years ago when I was looking for something a little different. A suede pair of single strap monks made in England by Loake, they have proved invaluable worn with everything from tweed, through formal suits to knitwear and jeans.

If you search for the history of the monk strap shoe you find references to medieval monks, but how this led to the adoption of the name for the shoe isn't clear. The general view seems to be that the style was developed in its present form early in the last century. Presumably the style reminded people of the strapped closed toed shoes that monks wore when their open-toed sandals were impractical for work outdoors as they let in stones and mud. 

I found an image (below) of a late 15th / early 16th century child's shoe from London's Victoria & Albert Museum which shows that buckled straps have been around for centuries. Although this is a shoe for a toddler, you can imagine monks wearing similarly simple but practical footwear. 

Child's strapped shoe late 15th/early16th century. Image V&A London

Advice on the web suggests that the monk strap shoe is semi-formal, somewhere between the oxford (formal) and derby (less so) with the double monk, which has two buckles on each shoe (see images below) being the more casual. Monks come in all sorts of leather and those in suede or with a brogued finish will be at the more casual end of the spectrum, while a plain pair in black calf would be ideal for more formal wear.

I'm wearing Loake single monk straps in black calf and suede

It's generally said that monks shouldn't be used with very formal wear such as black tie. I disagree. A single strap monk in polished black is an elegant and simple addition to evening wear. It's not uncommon to see men wearing monogrammed velvet slippers and even patent leather loafers with black tie so it's hard to understand how a simple, smart and stylish pair of highly polished monk shoes should be the cinderella at the ball.

Double & single monk straps (Loake Shoemakers)
I wear the black pair with formal evening wear

Click here to find out about the Loake English-made monk strap shoes.

With thanks to Loake Shoemakers for supplying the shoes and some of the images for this feature. 

Evelyn Waugh: The Comfort and Style of a Tweed Suit

The Italian word 'sprezzatura' perfectly describes that rather dishevelled but Oh-so-English look of a well-used tweed suit, as worn with such aplomb by so many men in the early half of the twentieth century. I came across the image below of author Evelyn Waugh which perfectly illustrates that casual, crumpled and unselfconscious English style. How can we emulate that comfortable tweedy appearance today?

Evelyn Waugh by Mark Gerson 1963

Waugh's suit appears to be a heavyweight tweed (they would normally have been fairly robust cloth in those days) in a shepherd check. As is normal with a well-worn-in tweed, it looks as comfortable as an old jumper and pair of jeans might be to us today. Men were used to wearing tailoring in those days, and Waugh would have thought nothing of throwing himself down on the sofa for a post-prandial nap fully clothed in his three-piece.

It's this slightly disordered but so natural and unforced look, the result of wearing a suit day in and day out, that's often admired in the English (or more strictly British) man of that era. Sadly today's man has largely abandoned tailoring in favour of casual wear or that mix of leisure and sports wear, 'athleisure', that, while possibly easy to wear, lacks elegance or style. 

The art of wearing tailoring for relaxation has been lost and today it's felt that sloppy and shapeless is necessary for easy wear. Evelyn Waugh shows us that this is a mistaken view. Tweed is a casual cloth, designed originally for easy movement outdoors, retaining its shape and protecting the wearer from the elements. A good quality cloth is soft, robust and lightweight, moulding readily to the body. Its forgiving nature means that it doesn't need to be treated with care, like a flannel business suit. 

Worn well the tweed suit combines effortless style with comfort. Let's buy more tweed suits (I suggest some sources of new and vintage tweeds below).

Waugh wears a houndstooth check tweed suit with a jaunty buttonhole

Vintage Tweed Suits

If you like your tweed suit traditional and heavy duty, try a vintage example. I bought a Harris tweed suit that must have been over 60 years old some years ago. The tweed was very heavy and you will find this is common with older suits. After some alterations it fitted well, but was too warm for indoor wear. 

If you buy online check with the seller for moth holes, torn linings and a general smell of damp, age or mothballs. And of course you should ask for detailed measurements, comparing them to a suit that you know fits. Aim for minimal alterations as too great a change to size isn't always successful.

Here are a few links - you may find more:

Hornets Vintage

Savvy Row

Fogey Unlimited

New Tweed Suits

Any tailor will be delighted to make a tweed suit - whether made to measure of fully bespoke will depend on your budget and preferences. Ready to wear (RTW) is the affordable option and most stores and tailors will alter a suit to fit as well as possible. 

Here are a few suggested links - there are many more out there and I've confined myself to a few stores and tailors I know or have experience of:

Dege & Skinner for the full bespoke Savile Row experience and a suit that will fit to perfection.

Susannah Hall - British made suits.

Cordings of Piccadilly - their affordable RTW suits are made of the best tweed. They fit me perfectly, but they will alter for you if needed.

Campbell's of Beauly - in Scotland near Inverness: a tweed heaven offering RTW and bespoke tailoring. They specialise in estate tweeds. This is a topic on its own, but many Scottish sporting estates have since Victorian times developed their own tweeds, the colours and patterns reflecting the colours of their local rock, heather, water and skies.

Marwood: Quality and Style

It's been a while since I caught up with Marwood, whose beautifully made and designed products combine style with quality. 

I asked Becky French, founder of Marwood, to bring us up to date:

DE: I've been following Marwood for many years now and indeed still wear a pair of your mohair socks that have outlived all my other socks by a factor of at least 10. Can you tell us something about Marwood and its products?

Becky: Thanks David. Yes Marwood’s mohair socks are very popular and it’s a shame to have run out of stock currently but I am hoping to replenish in the coming months and hold a sample sale of odd sizes for newsletter readers around Christmas. They are so soft, comfortable and legitimately last the test of time. I have had many emails and messages from people each year telling me how happy they are that it’s cold enough to wear the chunky ones again. It’s a good feeling to get such positive feedback.

I love to offer products that tick all the boxes. The aim is to create beautiful pieces in your wardrobe that you can’t quite find anywhere else… that is the main principle behind Marwood. At the moment a lot of the ties are one-of-a-kind and we are exploring made-to-order for next year. This adds to the uniqueness of our offering and hopefully shows we have a thoughtful approach to consumption.

DE: I've long admired your beautiful men's ties and see that you also sell homewear and lace - is there a common element to these different products?

Becky: Graphic geometric patterns, a monochrome palette (set amongst a rich array of colour), earthy textures and all made by traditional manufacturers in the UK. Our tagline is “outfitting life’s occasions” which gives me an open brief when it comes to designing products. We have an aesthetic and practical approach to a British lifestyle and all its occasions. We can cater to a black tie event or a walk in the hills in a meaningful way. We are looking to find the little corners of a person’s lifestyle that need some attention, hence why we ventured in to homeware as well. We are exploring an offering of textile art next.

DE: Is British manufacture and design important to you?

Becky: It has always been important for Marwood because we have made our products close to home with suitable makers that are the best at what they do. However I wouldn’t ever say we should only ever produce here. I am all about finding the best manufacturers for the job… keep products authentic to a manufacturer’s skillset and speciality. These relationships with suppliers are the backbone of any brand, so I believe in maintaining good, positive connections with our makers.

DE: You say that. 'We champion the idea of owning less and caring more about selective investment pieces'. How does this translate into the pieces that you sell?

Becky: I see our products as the opposite of fast fashion. They are thoughtfully designed and produced. The price point means they are an investment choice for most people, but I then think the lifespan of the products vouches for themselves. Marwood products have integrity.

DE: What is the future of Marwood?

Becky: I wish I could answer this but I just don’t know. It was such a fast growing, exciting business in its early years (since 2010), but then when wholesale business devolved, and I joined Turnbull & Asser five years ago, it became a side project. It is getting nurtured more now that I am freelancing for other brands and have more flexibility. I am enjoying the shoots (like this one with Rick Pushinsky and David Nolan) to bring some life back to the brand and the website and working with a small team of collaborators. At the end of the day, I love curating ranges, designing and making well-crafted pieces and connecting with people through imagery and art… so if Marwood continues to let me do this, then it will grow along with me. Let’s see what’s to come.

DE: Many thanks, Becky, for telling us about Marwood.

www.marwood.life

Heron's Ghyll: British-Made Tailored Elegance

Heron's Ghyll was founded in 2020 by Mark Francis in London and it takes that city's tailoring heritage and adds a romantic, cosmopolitan touch to produce clothes that don't fit any particular mould, but can be adapted to the needs and wishes of the wearer.

Heron's Ghyll: left blue & white striped linen. I wear (right) check lambswool Nehru

Mark sent me a sample Nehru jacket to try. I could wear it as streetwear with jeans, but decided that, with party season coming up, I'd style it for the usual (and rather meaningless) 'smart casual' or 'cocktail' or similar dress codes that accompany seasonal invitations.

The Purple Check Extrafine Lambswool Blazer that I borrowed is beautifully made, part-lined with silk and adorned with gold buttons. Worn with dress trousers, patent slippers and a while silk shirt it would pass muster for a black tie do. Paired with a lightweight roll neck sweater, jeans and suede loafers you could lunch with a friend at your local hostelry.

I wear Heron's Ghyll check lambswool Nehru jacket

Other jackets (some with matching trousers) come in wool, linen, denim, cotton, cashmere cotton or seersucker as Glen check, stripes, polka dots and plain fabrics, so there is something for every occasion and taste. They are mostly made to order, with delivery times around 4 weeks.

For more information about Heron's Ghyll, their jackets, matching trousers and accessories go to Heron's Ghyll.

Tusting x Grey Fox - A Backpack Collaboration

I'm delighted to announce another collaboration with one of my favourite British brands. Tusting has been a family-run leather business since 1875 and many of their craftsmen and women come from families who've worked for Tusting for generations. I've worked with them to design a stylish and practical tweed and leather backpack which is made to order. 

Here are a few words about the collaboration:

"As a lover of everything British-made, it’s a real privilege to have worked with Tusting on this backpack. It started some time ago when I visited their factory and spotted a gorgeous heavy tweed in their archive. Made by Lovat Mill of Scotland it was designed as an extremely robust tweed whose high twist yarn construction provides natural water resistance, making it perfect for its original intended use for outdoor and country activities. 

After some discussion, and a couple of sample iterations, a final prototype backpack was made, and I have used it extensively for over two years to ensure that every detail of practicality, construction, comfort and robustness was just right. 

We used Tusting’s Crazy Horse leather which I was familiar with as I’ve been using a Tusting Clipper bag for many years and I loved the way it has gained a beautiful patina of use but shown no signs of wear. 

I selected a bright Guards’ tunic red for the lining both to provide a cheerful contrast to the tweed and also to acknowledge family links to the five Foot Guards regiments of the Household Division. 

I’m enormously proud of this product featuring the best of British manufacture. Packed with useful pockets and compartments, this is a well-tried and comfortable backpack which I’ve used for everything from business trips to country dog walks and which has stood up perfectly to several years of use."

We've worked hard to make a practical, robust, comfortable and stylishly retro backpack. After using the prototype for over two years I'm confident that the Tusting x Grey Fox backpack is all these things. For more information and to order, see Tusting's website

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Note: This is a collaboration between Tusting and Grey Fox Blog - see also on Instagram @greyfoxstyle

Grenson Shoes: British Made

Grenson are a British brand who've been making shoes in Northamptonshire since 1866 and now also make overseas to ensure a wider choice to customers. I've not tried their products properly before and they kindly loaned me two pairs of shoes for this feature.

Wearing Grenson Archie triple-welted grain leather brogues

Grenson Archie (left) and Winchester (right)

I was keen to try the triple-welted Archie brogue and the black Winchester derbies, both made in Grenson's Northamptonshire factory. The Archie is an archetypal rubber-soled grain leather country shoe, robust and chunky and ideal for casual wear. The Winchester is a versatile and elegant leather-soled black calf shoe from the Classics Collection. While I'd wear it for business or, highly polished, with formal wear such as black tie the Winchester would also look good with denims or cords.

Styling the Grenson Archie brogue and Winchester derbies

Both shoes are beautifully made from excellent quality leather. I was only able to try them on carpet, but have little doubt that they are comfortable to wear. The two styles of shoe would make the perfect capsule footwear collection for almost every occasion. Their Goodyear welted construction means that they can be repaired multiple times, making them an good investment for the future if properly looked after with shoe trees and regular waxing and polishing.

Great shoes which I'll be reluctant to return. For more information and to buy, see Grenson Shoes.

Links:

Grenson Archie

Grenson Winchester

Colhays: British Made Knitwear

Colhays is a relative newcomer to the British-made knitwear scene. This is a crowded market and founder Ronnie Chiu has chosen to get round this potential problem by aiming unapologetically at the luxury end of the market. Furthermore his designs take a fresh look at shapes, colours and textures so that everything is very wearable and yet unique in feel or shape.

Ronnie Chiu founder of Colhays

I prefer not to write about products I haven't seen, handled and worn fairly extensively, but I was able to try these products at a press day. Knitwear is one of this things that has to be touched and tried to really appreciate and these are sumptuous in feel, quality and weight. 

Ronnie Chiu based his approach on two Scottish-made sweaters that his father bought with his first paycheck in the 1970s and still in existence. He determined to make quality and longevity a central part of Colhays - knitwear that could be passed through the generations.

Ronnie says:

“ My passion is in bringing back heirloom quality clothes that stand the test of time, the kind my grandfather and father would have worn and passed onto me, but making them relevant to people today by updating the styles and fits. My hope is to restore the relationship that once existed between craftsman and wearer by bringing to your attention the quality, care and expertise that have gone into every stage of manufacture - from the fibres used, to the skills of those who have created your garment; what makes the garment last so long. I think that you deserve to know, and the makers’ stories deserve to be heard.” 

From what I've seen of Colhays' products (links below), Ronnie has achieved what he set out to do and these are clothes that would be appreciated by anyone looking for British-made lasting high quality knitwear.

Trying Colhays' impressive knitwear products 

For more information go to Colhays website.

Grey Fox x Cordings of Piccadilly - A Collaboration

It's an absolute delight for me to announce a collaboration with classic British brand, Cordings of Piccadilly. They are everything I love about British menswear. They've  been around since 1839 and have remained true to their solid, practical, quality British heritage (see links below).

Wearing the Cordings x Grey Fox cord suit and wool check tie

I've written before about British style and its influence on western menswear. From preppy American and Ivy League to contemporary Japanese street style, staples like tweed, corduroy suits, polo and covert coats and outdoor and country sportswear have become classics of style and fashion. Cordings' longstanding place in the heritage of British men's style makes it a great privilege to work with them to put together this small largely British-made collection.

The collection is designed to be the start of a capsule wardrobe. By this I mean that every can be paired with the others. Rich reds and natural green runs through the palette, with the textures of corduroy, brushed Shetland knits and earthy Loden holding it together and providing contrast and variety. 

The collection comprises five pieces:

• Two Shetland jumpers in a rich red and a mossy green (crew and V-neck respectively), made in Scotland. I was keen to have the wool lightly brushed as a nod to the heritage of Scottish knitwear (the jumpers are brushed using the dried spiky seed heads of the teasel plant). I also wanted to recall the popularity of brushed Shetland ('Shaggy Shetlands') as icons of preppy and Ivy League styles.
• A check wool tie. This is inspired by a vintage tie which I own, made in Scotland in the 1950s.
• A brown corduroy suit. This is based on one made for me by Cordings a few years ago and which proved very popular when I showed it on Instagram. My suit was made from Italian cord but I'm delighted to say that the collaboration suit is made from a similar corduroy made in England some years ago and found in the archives of Brisbane Moss. Like all Cordings' suits, it's tailored to a high standard but at an affordable price.
• A Loden 'Coldstream' coat. Based loosely on the double breasted coats worn by the five British Foot Guards regiments during the colder months, it's made in London from a gorgeous mix of alpaca and wool. The buttons are real buffalo horn. The luxury cloth means that it isn't heavy and the coat is comfortable and warm to wear during the colder months.

For more on these items, how we came to design them, their costs and how to buy, go to Cordings x Grey Fox

Follow me on Instagram to see more @greyfoxstyle

More about this collaboration: This is a sponsored collaboration with Cordings of Piccadilly. For me, collaborations are like buses; you wait ages and then they all arrive together. This collaboration is the second since the blog was founded nearly eleven years ago and I have a third coming soon (the first was launched last month here). I've long wanted to apply my tastes to a real collection. After so long curating Grey Fox I have a fair idea what I like and, more importantly, what you like. I welcome any comments and feedback - you can message or e-mail me from my Instagram account (above).

Karen Henriksen: British-Made Hats With a Twist

Over the years I've found myself wearing hats more and more. This may be partly to take advantage of their protection as my hair thins, but, more so, because a hat is such a vital part of the personal style equation. Whether a trilby, cap, beanie, hood or sou'wester, a hat adds character to a look as well as being highly practical at keeping off the sun or rain. 

Karen Henriksen is a London-based milliner making hats for men and women that offer something slightly different in terms of style, cut (Karen describes her asymmetric seams below) and practicability (links below):

Wearing Karen Henriksen: left: Shetland wool 'Jake' - right: linen-blend 'Selby'

Karen kindly made me two caps which I've worn regularly over the summer and autumn. They are beautifully made, fit well and offer something slightly different to the usual shapes and styles. I asked her to tell us something about her craft:

GF:  Please introduce yourself and your business.

KH: Originally from Yorkshire (from a farming family on my father's side). My mother's family were from Blackburn, and worked in the cotton mills - so I feel there might be a mixed heritage of hard work, textiles and tweed caps going on somewhere subliminal! I have spent most of my life and career in London.

My business focuses on headwear for everyday with a creative twist, an 'everyday elegance' - classic styles such as flat caps, trilby hats and baker-boy caps for men and women, with something a little different. I mainly work with the cut and sew method, creating shapes with interesting tailored seams where you might not expect them. Based at Cockpit Bloomsbury since 2005.

GF: How did you get into millinery and hat making?

KH: I completed a degree in fashion and textiles in Birmingham in the '80s. It became clear at University that fashion design was not for me - but the details of fashion (stitching, embroidery) as well as the craft of cutting and putting together a garment fascinated me (and still does!). I already had an interest in headwear back then and designed hats in addition to the clothes for my final collection. Pretty soon after graduating I started working in millinery, working my way around some of the best millinery work rooms in London, this was in the 1990's. During this time I developed the technical know-how to craft high quality hats, mainly occasion hats for women.

In the early 2000's I attended the Royal College to do a millinery MA. With the making skills I had already developed within the millinery industry, I was able to really focus on developing my creativity, be experimental and develop my own signature style. For my final collection I took utilitarian headwear such as headscarves, hoodies and sou'westers and transformed them into windswept, sculptural pieces. This led to experiments with asymmetric pattern-cutting, and my own version of a traditional English icon, the flat cap - revisited with an asymmetric twist, which became known as the Windswept Cap. 

The playful design ethos I developed for the Windswept collection was the foundation for my business, and is still at the heart of it today.

Karen Henriksen, Milliner

GF: How would you describe the style of both your men's and women's hats?

KH: Distinctive hats with tailoring detail, classic styles revisited with a contemporary twist, in high quality fabrics.

Being made from fabric (rather than blocked in felt or straw) is a practical choice and means I can offer trilby styles for example that can be stored easily and are more user-friendly than felt hats. But I also love the glamour and sophistication often associated with classic hats of the 1920s to 1950s, and always try to bring that to my designs (back to the 'everyday elegance' concept - mixing practicality with style).

My hats are firmly on the slow fashion side, being quite timeless in design and made to be worn for a lifetime.

GF: Do you make all the hats yourself?

KH: Pretty much! I have a small team in my studio at Cockpit in central London, but it's quite a lean operation. Controlling the making process completely in-house means I can offer special styles and design variations for clients - crucially, I also offer a large selection of head sizes. I have clients from far and wide (Iceland, South Korea and the USA!) buying from me because they love hats but can't get hold of one that fits them just right.

This is also more environmentally friendly as every hat is made to order, and to size - so less waste is involved.

After nearly 20 years making hats under my own brand, I still get so much pleasure from the making process.

GF: Your men's hat shapes are different from the traditional styles - how do you arrive at a style for a hat during the design process?

KH: My design process is hands-on, working directly with pattern-cutting - it is very time consuming and quite instinctual! To arrive at a finished design I would usually make between 4 and 10 toiles (test pieces made from calico or another test fabric). Sometimes the design process starts from a client comment or request, other times it begins with an idea for a variation or a hybrid between two styles. This is how I end up with hybrids such as beret-caps, flat cap/baker-boy cap, visor-caps, and trilby/pork pie hats... The list goes on!

GF: Have you seen a change in the attitudes of men towards hat buying?

KH: I'd say that they have really embraced buying online and are confident in doing so. It has certainly been a huge learning curve for me, designing and making for men (not sure where I am on the curve - still very much learning!) Certainly, the men's side of my business has grown so much in the past few years - I'd say from around 10% about 10 years ago, to about 50% now.

GF: How do you see the business developing over the next few years?

KH: I think the growth of the men's side is likely to continue - so much so that I may well wish to bring someone in to help me continue to develop this part of the business. 

I'm also now embarking on a new strand of work, creating art for interiors. Initially, this is a range of sculptural lightshades, just launched at London Design Festival last month.

My Karen Henriksen caps showing the tailoring detail and asymmetric seams

GF: Do you wear hats daily yourself? How would you describe your personal style?

KH: Yes, especially in the winter. And I always have a rain hat and a sun visor in my bag, ready for any eventuality!

When it comes to fashion I have a few favourites that are quite classic, mainly in black and khaki. Keeping it simple to highlight the hat, and/or maybe a statement necklace or ring. And I live in trainers (I walk everywhere!).

GF: Many thanks, Karen, both for the hats and for your thoughts above.

Contact: 

KAREN HENRIKSEN
Designer/Maker
www.karenhenriksen.co.uk

kh_millinery
kh_mens_hats
kh_couture_home

Studio E2P, Cockpit Bloomsbury
Northington Street
London WC1N 2NP
+44 (0)7946 530442

Socks from Peper Harow - Colour and Pattern

I lived through the era of tasteless socks. In the eighties and early nineties grown men would be seen wearing cartoon socks and matching ties. A result has been that I'm now very conservative in my sock choices. I've been tempted out of this bland caution by socks from British sock makers, Peper Harow who make some gorgeous patterned socks in the best possible taste. 

The socks are extremely well-made and comfortable to wear; the best of British sock manufacture. Peper Harow are proud of their British factory, their focus on sustainability and also on their adventurous designs. At a time when men, like me, are conservative in their sock tastes, it's welcome to see a brand leading us to more exciting sock choices.

Peper Harow socks

This is a sponsored collaboration with Peper Harow socks.

Joshua Ellis Cashmere x Grey Fox Scarves: A Collaboration

I'm delighted to announce a collaboration with Joshua Ellis Cashmere who manufacture luxury textiles at their mill in Yorkshire. I have selected four cashmere scarf designs to form the small and limited Grey Fox x Joshua Ellis Cashmere Collection. 

Introducing the Grey Fox x Joshua Ellis Cashmere Scarf Collection

The scarves are made in Yorkshire from 100% cashmere with a lightly brushed finish to give a luxurious soft finish. I've selected them to be a fusion of the best of high quality British manufacture and classic styling that complements any look, formal and casual. The scarves measure 30 x 180cm (plus fringes) and cost £129.00 each.

Please note that this is a sponsored collaboration as every scarf purchased will help with the costs of running Grey Fox Blog. For more information and to purchase please click on the links under each image below or follow the link at the end of this feature.

Grey Fox Modern Tartan & Plaid Scarf - Bedale

Grey Fox Tweed Cashmere Scarf - White, Tiger & Cobalt

Grey Fox Tweed Scarf - White Sapphire & Green

Grey Fox Modern Tartan Scarf - Crimson

I visited the Joshua Ellis factory in Yorkshire earlier this year and, as I always am when I visit British mills, workshops and factories, I was impressed by the pride and enthusiasm of those making the scarves. They know that they are using the best materials and manufacturing techniques to make products that are appreciated around the world, where British luxury products are sought after for their quality and heritage.

In buying a scarf you will not only be supporting this blog and  my media, but also supporting British manufacturing where products are made to last, sustainably and ethically.

Below are photos taken on my visit to the Joshua Ellis mill this year:

Teasels used to brush the cashmere to give a soft finish

The Grey Fox x Joshua Ellis Cashmere Scarf Collection

Click here to purchase or to see more about The Grey Fox x Joshua Ellis Cashmere Scarf Collection. 

Please note that I am paid a proportion of sales: this will go towards my costs of running Grey Fox Blog and @greyfoxstyle on Instagram.

Wallace Sewell: The Elizabeth Line, Scarves, Ties, Textiles

Wallace Sewell first caught my attention for their beautiful use of colour and texture in fabrics for furnishings and textiles and I'm lucky enough to own a few scarves (see the image below) and ties in their gorgeous, varied, but highly characteristic designs. 

Wallace & Sewell moquette design for the Elizabeth Line

Wallace Sewell, texture, colour and design - made in the UK

I am reminded of them every time I travel on London's Underground. Why? The reason is that they are behind the designs of the fabrics used in the seating on several routes including The Overground and Tramlink services. Their 'Barman' design, incorporating several London landmarks including the London Eye, is seen on several lines. 

Most recently Wallace Sewell have interpreted the rich purple of the new Elizabeth Line to perfection in their moquette (a thick pile fabric for upholstery or carpets) for the seating of that line. The purples, mauves, greys, beige and splashes of orange and red are carefully designed to hide future wear and tear.

Above two images from Dezeen

Harriet and Emma, co-founders of Wallace Sewell, say about their designs:

"Emma - Our design for the Elizabeth line was a progression from a design we created for the precursor of Crossrail, the TFL Rail service running from Liverpool Street to Shenfield. This had been inspired by travelling the route and abstracting its surroundings into rectangles and linear motifs. For the Elizabeth line design, we worked into the pattern, adding more pinstripe details, as a nod to the suits of the City of London and creating a sense of speed, as the line travels from East to West. 

Harriet - The colour palette started with the specific shade of purple that is the line colour, to which we added other tones of purple, mixed with warmer and lighter shades to keep the fabric bright in overall effect, complementing the dark interior. The palette also incorporates flashes of others line colours that the route interacts with as accents. 

Emma - As with all our designs for TFL, we aim to create a complex pattern that is bold and dynamic, yet balanced in it’s repeat, and in this design we disguised this through repetition of simple motifs, so that the eye is drawn along the carriage whilst maintaining a vertical framework."

Wallace Sewell's moquette for The Elizabeth Line

Wallace Sewell - working on the artwork

Wallace Sewell's Elizabeth Line design necessarily lacks the multiple textures of many of their textiles which often use several types of yarn in their construction. However, the clever use and mix of colours and the vertical and horizontal nature of the designs is seen in both the moquette and other products like my scarves. All are recognisably Wallace Sewell. For readers of this blog, the scarves and ties are  must, but there is plenty on their website to tempt the admirer of contemporary British design. These pieces will be collectibles of the future.

For more on Wallace Sewell and their designs, and to purchase, go to Wallace Sewell.

Note: the scarves were gifted.

Peper Harow: Sustainable British-Made Socks for Father's Day

Peper Harow (who have kindly sponsored this post*) is a British luxury sock brand which has been making socks in the UK for more than 5 years. It's a small family business that focuses on sustainable manufacture, not only using organic and recycled materials (see below), but also locally produced recycled paper packaging. Their Sussex factory has solar panels to help reduce their carbon footprint and the company is committed to UK manufacture.

Don't knock socks as a Father's Day gift. Socks are an essential part of the style equation and these are great quality sustainably produced socks. They are made from 76% - 80% recycled materials in Peper Harow's modern factory.  Each pair contains 76% to 80% recycled materials and is made from 28gms of t-short offcuts and a plastic bottle, recycled in Europe (see the video below for more information).

Peper Harow socks: a selection of recycled and organic

The casual socks come in a variety of attractive colours in ribbed designs; my favourite is the coral colour. The sports socks come in various block colour options are breathable, have cushioned soles and (seamless) toes and arch support. I've been wearing them on country walks and fast hikes and have found them excellent - very comfortable and well-cushioned.

In addition to recycled socks, Peper Harow sell pairs made from organic cotton. This is high quality cotton that is produced using significantly less water and chemicals and using more sustainable farming practices. Organic cotton is certified by GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard). Peper Harow's organic cotton socks come in a variety of patterns and as trainer socks.

For more information and to buy for Father's Day (or indeed any time) go to Peper Harow.

Note: This is a sponsored post. I take on a small number of sponsored posts each year to alleviate the financial and time costs of running this blog and my Instagram account. In buying from these brands you help support Grey Fox Blog.

Blue Eyes Bow Ties: An Interview with Helen King

I wear bow ties for formal black tie events but have to confess that, until I heard from Helen, who founded Blue Eyes Bow Ties, I'd never worn a bow tie for day wear. She kindly sent me a black tie and a silk Paisley tie to try. 

I rather enjoyed the experience of wearing the Paisley tie. With the decline in popularity of the neck tie I feel that men have left themselves with a gap between shirt collar and neck that cries out to be filled. I still wear neckties, but for those who don't, the feeling that something is missing when we wear an open neck shirt in anything other than casual attire does present a problem. That gap can be filled with a cravat, bandana, silk scarf or, now for me having tried one, a bow tie. If you are keen to learn how to tie a bow, my next post here on the blog will be an instructional video I made with Chester Barrie some years ago - see below.

I spoke to Helen King of Blue Eyes Bow Ties (link below) to seek her take on the bow tie:

GF: Please introduce yourself and your brand.

HK: My name is Helen and I’m the founder and owner of Blue Eyes Bow Ties, a limited edition bow tie company that specialises in handmade, unique and funky men’s accessories.

GF: How did you come to be making bow ties?

HK: I founded Blue Eyes Bow Ties in 2016 during a particularly difficult period of my life. Returning to sewing, a hobby I’d had since childhood, offered a fantastic escape, and became my passion very quickly. My husband inspired the move into bow ties and men’s accessories. I’d made him a waistcoat, as a thank you for the beautiful engagement ring he’d just given me. He suggested I make a matching bow tie, so I did, and it snowballed from there! I’ve never looked back, and Blue Eyes Bow Ties has gone from strength to strength.

GF: How popular are bow ties at the moment?

HK: Bow ties are more popular than ever right now. With Covid restricting everyone’s movements and putting a stop to social events for pretty much two years, it’s as though everyone wants a bow tie to go out and celebrate in! Now that people are partying and attending events, they want a smart or funky bow tie to wear. Wedding bow ties are also on the increase with more and more grooms choosing to wear one on their special day. I get a lot of requests for bespoke tailored designs for grooms and their groomsmen as well as the father of the bride and page boys (and canine ring-bearers!).

GF: Which are your most popular types/designs?

HK: People come to Blue Eyes Bow Ties for one of two things. They either want a beautiful traditional bow tie or they want something funky, colourful and unique. One of my most popular designs is a traditional Black Silk Dupion self-tie bow tie. It’s a timeless classic and a staple of any gentleman's wardrobe. On the opposite end of the spectrum, my all-time best seller is a pre-tied black velvet bow tie encrusted with glittering crystals; it certainly makes a bold statement. What I’ve learnt over the last 6 years is that there’s no such thing as ‘too bold’ and people’s tastes are incredibly eclectic. What might be over the top for one person is perfect for another. That’s why I’ve worked particularly hard to develop a range of over 250 designs which includes something for everyone.

GF: Please tell us about the ties, their designs and the materials you use.

HK: All of my bow ties are made using natural fibres, including 100% cotton, silk or velvet. I don’t use man-made materials as I want my products to be as luxurious as possible and I don’t really think anyone should be caught wearing a polyester bow tie! I particularly love to use Liberty of London cotton prints as their designs are so bold and unusual. Pure Dupion silk is also a delight to work with and makes beautifully shaped bow ties. I make both self-tie and pre-tied bow ties, so there’s something to suit both confident bow tie wearers and beginners. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, including the standard butterfly, diamond point or a narrow ‘bat’, to name but three. If you can think it, I can probably make it.

GF: You've had some great support in building your business - where do you see it going over the next few years?

HK: Very early on in my bow tie business I was lucky enough to win the Theo  Paphitis #SmallBusinessSunday award. I also had one of my bow ties worn by the 13th Doctor Who in 2020. Both were fantastic opportunities for making connections, gaining attention and giving credibility to my brand.

As of December 2021 Blue Eyes Bow Ties went from my side hustle to my full time business and I envisage great things to come now that I can plough my full time and attention into developing my products and my brand. Getting out in the public consciousness is something I’m working hard on, and I can only see things getting bigger and better over the next few years.

GF: Many thanks Helen and very best wishes for the future of your business.

Link to Blue Eyes Bow Ties.

How To Tie a Bow Tie - A Video by Grey Fox Blog

The next post here on the blog is a video I made with the late-lamented Chester Barrie on How To Tie A Bow Tie. Scroll up to see this.

Artist & Stick Maker: Helen Elizabeth Roberts

One of the benefits of Instagram is the contacts that can be made through it. I heard from artist, crafter and stick maker, Helen Elizabeth Roberts about her work and couldn't resist showing you the wonderfully painted sticks made that she makes.

I haven't seen the sticks in the flesh, but they look so beautiful in the images I wanted to talk to her to find out more about her craft.

Helen Elizabeth Roberts, artist and stick maker

GF: Please introduce yourself

HER: Hello, my name is Helen Elizabeth Roberts I am an artist, stick maker and crafter. Having a firm sense of place I am inspired by my surroundings, capturing the spirit of where I live. Using a variety of different mediums I communicate rural life through my artwork. Often depicting the interaction between the rural community and its wildlife historically and present day.

I adore the coast & countryside and all that goes with it. My special love is for the forests, the mountains and the fast running rivers, streams and brooks. I have a passion when it comes to animals and birds having the luxury of being surrounded by them at home. The countryside, wildlife and animals have a very strong influence on my work. But I do like to paint other subjects when the opportunities arise.

A selection of sticks made and painted by Helen Elizabeth Roberts

GF: You describe yourself as an artist and stick maker, how did you come to be an artist and what led you to stick making?

HER: I have always been that person, even as a child who could be found sketching, painting, or making things in my spare time. But my creations were rarely seen by anyone outside my family circle. Realising as I have matured the only thing stopping me now is me. So your question “how did I become an artist?" I would answer: I have always been one but only recently have I been brave enough to shout “I am an artist, this is who I am”. Stick making however came about through a sort of challenge. My partner is a big shooting man and wanted a new thumb stick. He wanted something unique and different but he could not find anything he liked. I said I would have a go at making him one and here I am today a few years on still making and painting bespoke one off pieces.

GF: How did you learn the skills of stick making?

HER: The internet is such a valuable source of information and help. Skilled and sometimes people learning too happily sharing their knowledge and experience online. So I made the most of this source and this is how I learnt. I still have the first stick I crafted depicting flying grouse with a shooting man, his two English pointers by his side. It is a good reminder of where it all started and how much I have progressed over the few years. I learnt a lot by trial and error, using different processes until I had a method that suited me best.

Recent work by Helen Elizabeth Roberts

GF: Do you see your sticks as practical objects or as works of art?

HER: It is mostly about the art for me so I see them as unique works of art first which have the advantage of being a practical piece too. Some clients use the sticks for walking, hiking or shooting loving to show them off when out and about. Whilst others are stick collector’s, people wanting an art piece to decorate their hall in a stick stand or to be hung up as wall art. Either way they are a great talking point.

GF: Please describe the process of selecting the wood, making and painting your sticks.

HER: All sticks are lovingly handcrafted made from natural materials, constructed using traditional stick making methods.

These sticks are very tactile as well as stunning and different to look at. The handles are lovely to hold. You can feel the contours of the wood on the shaft and part of the painting technique means the painted surface is not always totally smooth giving it more life and interest.

As I am so busy I now have a wonderful supplier in the UK who provides the stag horn and straightens the shafts which are seasoned for at least 1 year. I handpick all my stock and look for a shaft that is as thick and straight where possible. I do use thinner shafts at times when required. If a person wants a commission they can choose if they would like a thinner or thicker stick.

For stag horn thumbsticks and wading staffs, naturally shed red deer antler is used to make a beautiful tactile handle or thumb rest. Tipped and finished off with black buffalo horn or cow horn which I hand work and polish to a high gloss. I add a collar of buffalo horn which is also worked and polished. To finish a high gloss vanish is used. All sticks are fitted with a brass (or rubber if grip is required) ferrule to protect the bottom.

Each stick is hand painted, the shaft framing the unique piece of original art work signed and dated by myself. And finally to finish, marine varnish is used to add lustre and further protection to the naturally durable materials and artwork.

I work personally with each client, listen to their story for the piece so I can capture the spirit of what they want to see and feel each time they gaze upon their finished artwork. I have a league time of 2 months for a bespoke commissioned stick from preparation to the finished product.

Sticks by Helen Elizabeth Roberts

GF: Have you always had an interest in rural life and wildlife?

HER: Yes, but have not always had the opportunity to embrace it fully till now. You could truly describe my life journey by looking at my past and present attire. I have gone from being suited and high heel booted, to Dubarry deck shoes Musto sailing coats with life jacket then finally at last having my green hunter wellies, Barbour wax jacket and Tweed flat cap. I have always been an animal lover having pets all my life. Even from a young age I always adored our British coast and countryside appreciating everything it has to offer. I moved near the coast in my 30’s and deeper into the countryside in my 40’s really embracing rural life fully. Now still surrounded by various pets and animals with my partner I truly feel rural in every way.

GF: How do you see your business developing?

HER: I do not know what the future holds at this stage. This is the most contented stage of my life being with my animals in a rural environment having the privilege to be able to create works of art that bring joy to peoples lives by giving them a little piece of countryside in an art form.

With the positive feedback I receive I can see my business growing steadily especially as I now have more exposure. But, I would like to develop my business in a way that does not dilute my unique style. And to be able to still provide the personal touch which people love when commissioning a piece of art.

As well as my my unique hand painted sticks I also offer limited edition gicleé fine art prints, homeware and natural feather hat pins.

GF: Many thanks for this fascinating insight into your life as artist, stick maker and nature lover.

Links:
Website: www.helenelizabethstudios.com
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCO-lmYtKwpPO5YemehXbaxg
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/helenelizabethstudios/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/helenelizabethstudios