Ten Ways to Personal Style: Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab

Thankfully we all have a very personal styles and no two of us have identical tastes or wear the same clothes. In this feature we further explore the theme of style with the help of a great friend, personal stylist Sarah Gilfillan (link to her website below) who has advised me often on finer points of menswear style. 

Different styles: how do you find yours? (I'm with Svante Nybyggars)

Sarah advises men on menswear and style through her personal styling consultancy at Sartoria Lab (link below) and is therefore well-placed to give her thoughts on this knotty topic. Here are her Ten Points of Style:

• Find out what colours suit you – experiment with trying out new colours – what have people complimented you on the past? What makes your skin look healthy and brings attention to your eyes? 

Try and figure out if you have a warm skin tone (olive, freckly or golden looking) which suit colours like khaki, mustard and tan. Or a cool skin tone (pale or pink toned, or cool brown) – which look good in most blues, cooler greens like jade/forest and pink toned reds.

• Analyse the details of things you’ve bought and liked in the past - what did you like – was it the shape that suited you, did you like the fabric or texture, or was it the colour? Do you prefer things that are smooth and sleek or ones with tweedy textures and a more worn in look? Do you like a sharp silhouette or more relaxed and less structured shapes?

• Try out new things every so often. If you’re out shopping, take a “wild card” item into the fitting room with you – something you wouldn’t normally try on but like the look of. You might find it suits you and you’ve made a brand new discovery.

• Pay attention to the finishing off points – try on a size up or down to get the right fit, add a scarf or an interesting belt to your outfit. Fit is the starting point of looking good and accessories can take an outfit from looking okay to great.

• Think about your outfit as a whole – when you’re buying something new think about what you’ll wear it with. Can you layer things underneath it or on top of it? Does it need a contrast in colour between the top and the bottom to enhance it? Do the proportions work with things you have eg; if you move to wearing wider leg trousers from slim, you might need to update your footwear to something chunkier to balance them.

• Buy to fit your lifestyle –if you mainly wear practical, casual clothes every day, then spend the money on them rather than a suit that you wear twice a year. Look for practical items that have some unusual detailing, and try mixing interesting colours together, or accessorising with scarves, cool socks or belts to bring a modern edge to them.

• Go to different shops for new discoveries – and if they have helpful shop assistants, make use of them. Things change and the shop you’ve always been to may have a different designer now which isn’t your thing or you may have grown out of it. Have a look on Instagram to find new brands to try out.

• Contrasts can be interesting – if you have an outfit in one colour like navy then contrasting textures like denim, cashmere and suede work well. A blazer looks best with trousers in a contrasting colour or texture, so it doesn’t look like a mismatched suit. You can also play around with contrasting smart and casual items like a chambray shirt worn with a suit to make it look more casual.

• Update your hairstyle and glasses – you can have an amazing outfit but if your hairstyle and glasses look old fashioned then it can ruin it. It can just be a few tweaks to your hairstyle (using a bit of product / having a definite parting) or if you don’t have any hair, using a darker or more colourful frame will make more of an impact to your look.

• Figure out what you think is “you” and expand it eg: if you like tweed jackets could you try a tweed bomber jacket or overcoat? If you love the simplicity of a suit but don’t have the occasion to wear it could you replicate the pared back style with more casual things like a navy cardigan, white button down shirt, navy chinos and black leather trainers? If you always wear jeans could you try grey or ecru instead of blue, or cord instead of denim?

To contact Sarah about her personal styling consultancy services, see Sartoria Lab.

This feature follows on from my How To Find Your Personal Style: A Ten Point Guide

How To Find Your Personal Style: A Ten Point Guide

For nearly eleven years ago I've used the tagline 'A Search for Style' to describe this blog's main aim. Yet I've not yet shared my experiences of the process of finding a personal style. In this post I give some suggestions to help you find your own successful style.

Tweed suit Cordings of Piccadilly

Here are a few thoughts:

1. You will never complete the journey to style to your total satisfaction. Your tastes keep developing and external factors change. The clothes you see people wearing, the styles illustrated in the press and online will all affect your style decisions, but the final choices are yours alone and are independent of fashion. Fashion influences but never dictates true style; see 5 below.
2. Feeling comfortable with what you wear is fundamental to personal style. If you feel self-conscious you won't look at home in your clothes - the often used phrase is, 'Wear your clothes, don't let them wear you'. 
3. Following on from the last point, I've found that confidence comes with experience and with trying different styles, shapes, patterns, colours. 
4. Personal style must reflect your personality. It may be a mix of influences but it's never a copy of one person's ideas or of fashion trends. Your very individual characteristics and choices are what colour your style.
5. Look around you to help you establish what it is you like and don't like. Study Instagram, Pinterest, blogs and what men are wearing on the streets. This is the best way of deciding what to try and this takes us to the next step....
6. Try out what you like before adopting it. You may like a look on others but find that it doesn't suit you. It's this process of being inspired to try something and then testing it out on yourself that is central to the process of deciding what suits you best. You're getting to know yourself, your tastes, your personal style.
7. Rely on your own developing taste, but do take into account the views of people you respect if unsure. Try out different looks and if uncertain ask a close friend, lover, partner for their view (avoid asking the younger generation as the answer will probably be unpalatable!)
8. Whatever you do, approach the process with an adventurous and enquiring spirit. Push the limits of your comfort zone. Real style always has an edginess. It's more than just being well-dressed, it's about finding looks which go beyond the safe, showing something of your own personality. Real style has the sort of impact that prompts people to compliment you on how you look - and that is sort of a nice boost to the confidence. 
9. Personal style is about more than just what you wear. Keeping fit, walking tall with attitude and confidence and being generally well-groomed will all add to the overall impression of sartorial excellence.
10. I found the help of a professional personal stylist very useful in getting started on my style journey. I've known Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab for years and her support and advice has been invaluable. 

As ever, I welcome your thoughts and comments and you can email me on greyfoxblog AT gmail DOT com or message me through @GreyFoxStyle on Instagram.

See also on the blog What is Style? in which Sarah Gilfillan and I attempt to define 'style'. 

Fragrances For All: Unisex Perfumes (Paid Collaboration)

The last few years have seen an increase in unisex fragrances. While perfumes specifically for either men or women are still popular, see for example this selection of women's perfume, products for him and her are worth exploring. 

Often described less elegantly as 'gender-neutral', these are products that move away from the traditional approach that floral is feminine and woody/spicy is masculine. After all, a man can appreciate the smell of a flower just as he can wear a pink shirt without losing his masculinity. 

Gender-neutral or unisex fragrances are here to stay
(Images on left Mareefe and Pixabay)

And why should scents be divided by gender? I had the vague thought that maybe they were engineered for the different body odours of men and women, but have never seen any evidence that this was so and, in any event, we all have different preferences and tastes, whether man or woman. And why not share a perfume?  A couple can complement each other with their scents, rather than going out in a cloud of conflicting fragrances. 

Most fragrance brands sell unisex products, including names as diverse as Creed, Floris, Nishane, Tom Ford, Penhaligon's, Gucci, Maison Margiela and many, many more. The more fresh, crisp, lemony, leafy, grassy scents are ideal as they avoid the more feminine floral or masculine smoky/spicy scents commonly (if inaccurately) associated with either end of the gender spectrum. A favourite of mine is Floris Limes: developed in the nineteenth century, its fresh, limey aroma is balanced by a musky base - ideal for man and woman. Another good choice is the glorious citrussy, green, lavender of Nishane Wulon Cha.

Remember to allow a few minutes for the scent to develop on your skin before you decide whether it suits you or not. The various elements of the fragrance change in this time and it will have a more subtle character after it has matured some minutes after application.

This feature is a paid collaboration with Notino.

Thomas Clipper Polaris: A Podcast and a Space Launch

Thomas Clipper have launched (literally) their new fragrance; Polaris. When I say 'literally' I mean the word as they have launched it 30km into space; you can see more on the video at the end of this feature.

Thomas Clipper were kind enough to interview me for one of their podcasts marking the new fragrance and you can listen here:

Polaris is an immediately attractive fragrance, warming, comforting, mossy, long lasting without being intrusive with hints of lemon, pepper and spice. (I discuss my thoughts in the podcast). This is another classic from this very British grooming brand.

Go to Thomas Clipper for more information and to buy their fragrances and grooming products.

Note: I was gifted a sample of Polaris.

Sustainable Style 16: Pure Shave - Reducing Waste

Pure Shave (link below) is a grooming brand new to me. They are keen to promote the sustainable aspects of their products. The problem with many men's grooming brands is that they rely heavily on plastic and other non-renewables in producing their products. Pure Shave's containers are metal and refillable.

Pure Shave products

I was sent samples of the fragrance, Amber, and of the shaving cream and the moisturiser and you can read my notes on these below, after my interview with James Kenning, who started the brand:

GF: Please introduce yourself the the brand.

JK: Hi, my name is James Kenning and I am the owner of Pure Shave London, a new eco-friendly grooming brand.

GF: How did you come to start Pure Shave?

JK: I started Pure Shave because I suffer from razor burn and rash and have done ever since I started shaving in 1987. I can remember looking in FHM for all the latest shaving products to come out (pre internet!) and would spend a fortune on the new products, but none of them really worked for me. I always thought there had to be an answer and a product somewhere.

Necessity being the mother of all invention, I stumbled on an idea for a key ingredient that I thought might work well within a shaving cream. With that in mind and a lack of products on the market, I decided to make my own.

I endlessly researched soaps, oils, emulsifiers and emollients, my aim was that every ingredient would have a benefit to the skin in some way. I also wanted to keep ingredients to an absolute minimum, hence the name, Pure Shave. Armed with half a dozen ingredients, I sat in my kitchen at home and started mixing. On the seventh attempt I had a formula that worked really well, no razor burn at all.

This was then tested on a group of my old school friends, who thought I had somehow lost the plot when I asked them to come round for beer and pizza but also to bring their razors! To my surprise, they all agreed the shaving cream was an idea worth pursuing.

This then started a very long four year process of getting the formula tweaked by a professional cosmetic formulation company to turn my idea into a viable and safe product, all the while holding down my day job in the TV and Film industry as a sound recordist. To say it’s been an emotional rollercoaster of a ride is an understatement.

The result of this hard work and effort is a fragrance free, hypoallergenic shaving cream, rich in vitamin E, a potent antioxidant that virtually eliminates razor burn and razor rash.

Pure Shave - I haven't tried the razor

GF: What products do you offer and what do you see as their advantages?

JK: The Pure Shave brand is built around the shaving cream which really does eliminate razor burn and rash. There are many different ways to use the shaving cream. You can use it with a shaving brush, either using a bowl or direct onto your face. If you take a few extra moments the shaving cream will whip up into a dense luxurious foam.

Personally, I use it just as a cream direct from the bottle, I think this is the best way to use it but the great thing is, you can experiment with it and use it how it works best for you. Some customers use it as a pre-shave balm as well, so it is incredibly versatile. The other excellent thing about the cream is that it is very economical, you don’t need to use much to get great results. Your skin will feel amazing afterwards, no tightness or soreness, your skin will feel soft supple and hydrated.

For those who need, we also offer a luxurious daily moisturiser, it is a non-greasy formula and is also fragrance free to keep any irritation to a minimum.

Our Eau de Toilette, Amber, was made for us by John Stephen at one of the UK’s leading fragrance houses based in The Cotswolds. I wanted a fragrance that had that ‘something' extra that made you want to keep smelling it, a fragrance that excited the senses, I have to say John has created something magical for Pure Shave.

The fragrance notes: it's based on the classic Chypre style [ed. a perfume based on sandalwood]. The blend of vetiver, musk, patchouli and ambergris form a rich, complex base. Layered on top are middle notes of geranium and pepper, floral with a spicy edge; and finally, orange and lime create the fresh citrus opening.

We also have an elegant, handcrafted wash-bag made from waxed saddle leather, sometimes known as Crazy Horse Leather. The application of wax over leather creates a rustic look that ages beautifully, picking up scratches and scuffs over time that add character and a vintage feel. The wash-bag features two compartments, both of which are lined with waterproof material. The large main compartment has space to contain anything you might need for business or pleasure, and the handy lower compartment is ideal for storing razors, scissors or other sharp items.

Our hand turned olive wood razor handles are a bestseller and are available on their own or as part of a set with options of a stand and brush or with a soap bowl as well. The handles are available for Gillette Mach3 or Fusion or for the traditional shaver there is a double-edged option.

Pure Shave Crazy Horse leather wash bag

GF: Sustainability is an important part of your offering - how does that work?

JK: Sustainability is a massive part of the business for me and one of the major headaches during the four years in development. It was so important for me that as a new brand we addressed the huge amount of waste we produce as individuals each year.

All of our products are refillable. The shaving cream and moisturiser are sold in aluminium bottles that can be refilled using one of the eco refill pouches. Each refill pouch holds enough product to refill the bottle three times. These pouches are made from recycled materials and are in themselves widely recyclable. However, instead of throwing them away when empty why not reuse them? They make great ice packs for picnics or for the gardeners among us they make great seedling planters.

We even offer a refill service for our fragrance Amber - this is the reason that it comes in a flight case, so that it can be posted back to us safely. You simply go on to the website and purchase the refill service and we do the rest - all you have to do is post it at your local post office.

GF: What other products will you be offering in future?

JK: There are a number of products in the pipeline but will have to see how the current sales go before I can implement them. That said, there is one product that I am really excited about and am awaiting delivery of, which is a sharpener for cartridge razor systems. I have had one on test for the last few months and it has amazed me at how well it works. This will extend the life of your cartridge razor which is great from a sustainability point of view.

GF: Where do you see the brand going in the next few years?

JK: Over the next few years I am looking to continue to expand in the UK. This is being done on my own, I have no large investors behind me so it will be a slow process but the reviews and feedback I get from customers drives me onwards and hopefully upward. I have one big advantage in that the shaving cream actually works so it speaks for itself.

GF: Many thanks James.

Note - I was sent samples of the shaving cream, moisturiser and Amber fragrance. Amber is a pleasant mix of woody and floral with a faint touch of citrus. It lasts well without being overpowering. Fragrances are very personal, but I suspect this would appeal to most tastes. 

The moisturiser is fragrance free and very effective with out being at all greasy. The shaving cream is also fragrance free and is applied with the fingers. It's not a shaving soap that's lathered with a brush - soaps can be variable in richness - but the Pure Shave cream is ideal as it lubricates the skin well without the addition potentially irritating fragrances. I don't suffer from shave rash myself, but I did find the cream less drying to use than some shaving soaps.

Go to https://pureshave.co.uk/ for more information and to purchase.

Read more in my Sustainable Style series

Fragrances for Autumn: A Sponsored Post

I like to wear fragrances that reflect the seasons; lighter citrus and pine when warm and smoky, woody accents for colder weather. Autumn brings with it the earthy smells of falling leaves and woodsmoke mingling with the sweeter scents of fallen fruit - all enhanced by fresher temperatures and evening chills which somehow sharpen the senses.

When buying men's grooming products for the chillier season I look not only for descriptions such as woody and smoky, but for elements such as amber, pine, vanilla, musk or sandalwood. Think of those warm complex scents that dominate the season as the weather turns cold and which we appreciate on country walks and at Christmas in our food or which warms us as fuel on the fire, giving out the comforting and glowing sensation of comforting mellowness.

Looking for fragrances I hadn't tried before I came across a few with these autumnal and wintery accents: Eisenberg J'OSE is essentially woody but cut with aromas of lemon and mint. From Parfums de Marly comes  their Oajan Royal Essence which is an oriental unisex fragrance combining honey and woody notes. And talking of colder weather, Roja Parfums' Royal Enigma is billed 'especially for colder weather'. The mellow notes of these products tend to last, lingering like the scent of smoke from a bonfire on the razor fresh air.

Others to try include Floris Santal, very British and with its sandalwood elements it makes a perfect autumnal scent. You may also like Montblanc Explorer which is aromatic and woody and at the more affordable end of the price scale. 

This is a paid collaboration with notino.co.uk

Kalabash Bodycare: An Interview With Sharron Jenkins

Looking around for small businesses to bring to your attention during the covid-19 lockdown has been a fascinating process. So many entrepreneurs have had their dreams badly affected and any support we can give them is invaluable in ensuring their survival. 

I came across Kalabash Bodycare (link below) and, struck by the exotic names of the soaps and other body care products, I approached founder Sharron Jenkins who kindly sent me some to try out. 

Sharron Jenkins, founder of Kalabash Bodycare

Lemongrass and marigold soap

They arrived beautifully packaged  and I was immediately struck by their scents and appearance. I now use her lemongrass and marigold artisan soap instead of my usual shower gel as it leaves a beautifully fresh citrus scent and of course it's more sustainable than using a product from a plastic bottle. I also use her bay rum and avocado as an exotic and frothy shave soap.

Impressed, I asked Sharron to tell me more about her brand and she told me how she started the brand and something about how the products are made and her approach to sustainability (she uses the highest quality materials and no palm oil in her soaps):

GF: Please introduce yourself and your business, Kalabash Bodycare.

SJ: I’m Sharron Jenkins the owner and founder of Kalabash, an award-winning British natural handcrafted soap and body care brand which recently celebrated its first anniversary in business.

In the late 1950s, my Windrush parents left Dominica, aka “The Nature Island of the Caribbean” and travelled to the UK, where they married and had a family.

I still have vivid memories of our only family holiday. After many years of working and saving this was my parents’ first trip back home after 20 years. This six-week tropical adventure went on to inspire a lifelong passion for tropical plants, gardening and creativity.

When at the age of 9, I arrived in Dominica all those years ago, I'd never stepped outside London, let alone the country. I was struck by its beauty immediately and the warmth of the sun. The sight, colours, smell and taste of fresh mangoes, bananas, cocoa, coconuts, oranges, limes and much more which hung ready to pick and eat from trees all over the island were dazzling.

The memories of my parents’ Garden of Eden homeland, with its dense rainforests, looming mountains and tropical gardens, watered by numerous rivers and streams which crisscross the island made a lasting impression which later inspired Kalabash.

The entire Kalabash range celebrates my West Indian heritage. The Caribbean’s abundant natural resources, rich culture, breath-taking landscapes and vibrant tropical plant biodiversity are key influences.\

Sharron makes the soaps at home

GF: How did you come to start out in a business making soap and other products?

SJ: In 2002, after years of working in a London office and on a career break, I enrolled on a Royal Horticultural Society course in horticulture and an accredited Garden Design course at Capel Manor College in Enfield north London. I studied part-time for 2 years combining part-time study and motherhood whilst getting my hands dirty in several London gardens as a jobbing gardener. I then went on to set myself up as a Garden Designer, specialising in plants and planting design.

As I worked outside year-round, I noticed that the weather and London pollution was playing havoc with my dry sensitive skin which was being stripped it of its natural moisture. I searched in vain for nourishing natural plant-based skincare products scented with pure essential oils, that were kind to both my skin and to the environment.

Very few natural skincare products were around at the time and many mainstream products were chemically laden. Sustainability, ethical sourcing, addressing waste and the environmental impact of the cosmetics industry were often overlooked.

So, I combined my extensive plant knowledge and trawled the internet for information on formulating natural skincare. As I developed my skills I became aware of a gap in the market for a nature inspired skincare brand with a Caribbean twist. After several months of experimentation and research, I recreated Dominica’s warm tropical scents and fragrances in my own range of natural handmade soap and bodycare products which I gave away to family and friends who loved them.

Soaps being made

GF: Who makes the products and how do you select the ingredients?

SJ: After taking a small business course in 2006, I launched Kalabash or Calabash Handmade as it was known then, from its London HQ (my kitchen in Finchley north London) and the brand began to flourish.

Sadly a few years later, life forced me to press the pause button and pack my dream safely away for another time as I returned to office life for a more stable income as a single mum.

In 2018 after a 12-year hiatus it was time for a career change. My children had grown up, left home and were making their own way in the world. With my new-found independence, I started work on relaunching my business. 

I had a clear idea of how I wanted to develop and update the original product range and spent an entire year reformulating the soap collection to remove all traces of palm oil from the original formulas.

Replacing the palm was not as quick or easy as I’d anticipated as I use the cold process soap making technique to make each batch of soap which takes around 6 weeks to complete. Changing the formula involved a lot of experimenting with various ingredient combinations, waiting for the soap to cure (around 4 weeks) and then testing its efficacy.

I gathered lots of feedback from my friends and family who were recruited as testers. With their help, I tweaked the formula until I was satisfied with the finished product, a cleansing, moisturising long lasting bar of natural soap with a smooth bubbly lather, free of palm oil, synthetic dyes, colourants or perfume.

With its packaging completely redesigned the brand was finally resurrected, renamed, and relaunched in March 2019.

My persistence paid off. I was incredibly proud when my Naked Pearl Unscented Artisan Soap Bar for sensitive skin (which is base formula for the entire range) was awarded a Green Parent Magazine Best Buy Award just 3 months after launch!

I use the Bay Rum soap as a shaving soap

GF: Tell us about the products you make - are they for men and women?

SJ: For nearly two decades now I've been creating natural soap and organic body care products by hand in small batches suitable both men and women. I select the highest quality Caribbean derived natural ingredients, which are skin-nourishing, effective and plant-based. They include amongst others, avocado, aloe vera, coconut, castor and papaya oils as well as mango, organic fairtrade cocoa, and shea butters.

To keep things 100% natural, I add colour and texture to the soap with herbs, spices, flowers and clays instead of synthetic dyes, and use pure aromatherapy grade essential oils with scents that evoke momentary Caribbean escapism and nurture the skin.

As well as handmade soap, I offer a small collection of award-winning organic body oils. Muscle relaxing mineral bath salts enriched with moisturising coconut oil are also available. Last Autumn I diversified into candle making and released a collection of slow burning hand poured soy wax essential oil candles to complement my artisan soap collection with warm evocative scents.

Once I’ve made a batch of soap I individually hand cut and hand stamp each bar with a Kalabash monogram, before carefully gift wrapping and packaging them into stylish plastic-free reusable/recyclable branded gift boxes

Each of the hefty 120g long-lasting bars is made from the base formulation of my award-winning unscented “Naked Pearl” bar.

Their names are the legacy of my childhood trip to the "Nature Island":

Black Sand Beach (Activated Charcoal)

Creole Rose (Amyris, Geranium & Pink Clay)

Nature Island Spice (Bay Rum & Avocado)

Shea Paradise (Lavender & Shea Butter)

Tropical Sunshine (West Indian Lemongrass & Marigold)

Naked Pearl (Unscented)

Sustainability and zero waste are a big part of the business ethos. To reflect this, I’ve curated a collection of sustainable gift ideas by combining various Kalabash products with sustainable accessories presented in luxurious sustainable gift boxes which make unique gifts.

Bay Rum candle from Kalabash Bodycare

GF: How do you see the business and the products you offer developing over the next few years?

SJ: My plans for my second year in business have been impacted by the recent health emergency like most other businesses. My main objective for the immediate future is to keep moving forward as best I can by raising awareness of the brand and staying optimistic for the future.

I had planned to broaden the product range by adding an exfoliating sugar cane body scrub, a multi-purpose skin balm and an aloe vera body butter. But, I’ve decided to press the pause button on these until the present storm has passed and avoid the costly and lengthy R&D process of bringing new products to market for now. Instead, I’m focussing on adding two new Summer fragrances to the candle collection, building my online customer base and wholesale stockists.

In time, I'd like to see Kalabash grow and displayed on the shelves of small independent boutique retailers worldwide, eco-friendly boutique hotels, spas and barbershops and well as being offered as sustainable corporate gifts.

For now, my mission continues to be to make high-quality small-batch products which enhance your grooming and wellness routines by evoking Caribbean escapism.

Kalabash products are available online at www.kalabashbodycare.com - please support this wonderful brand.

Some products were gifted - this is an unsponsored post.

Czech & Speake's Perfecto Fino Fragrance

There's something about the design of the best men's fragrances that seems timeless. The container of the new Czech & Speake Perfecto Fino fragrance has all the elements of a cigar box, with detailed images and text that make you want to examine closely the heritage of this brand and its new product. It took me back to the bottles of cologne that my grandfather kept in his bathroom and which I would study closely as a child.

Sadly I was separated from my bottle by the requirements of the coronavirus lock down before I could photograph it, but I tried it and liked what I scented. This is a complex fragrance with a solid base of wood, leather and, yes, even hot tarmac: very reminiscent of a vintage car interior - in a nice way of course. This is relieved by spicy caramel notes and even a hint of cigar smoke (or was that the box design giving me that hint?) combined with a whack of fruitiness and even a scintilla of citrus. Creative Director Frank Sawkins (who founded the company in 1978) wanted to capture Central America and the cigar and citrus notes, combined with car interior scents, certainly transported me to that part of the world. 

This is something quite different and I suggest you give it a go if you like to show that your tastes are individual and unique. It lingers well, without being cloying. I tend to prefer spicy and fruity scents, but this new fragrance has tempted me into a more leathery, club-like world. 

Priced at £150 for 100ml. Go to Czech & Speake for more information.

I was sent the product for review - this post is unsponsored.

Menswear Designer Fragrances from Versace and Armani

Have you noticed how most designer fashion houses produce their own fragrances? On the one hand you have brands that are fragrance specialists, such as Creed, Czech & Speake, D.R. Harris, Penhaligon's and Acqua di Parma which focus on grooming products rather than men's fashion. On the other hand a great many designer menswear companies sell grooming products under their own labels, from high street brands such as Hugo Boss and Abercrombie & Fitch to the luxury end of the market such as Tom Ford, Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani and Versace.

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giõ and Versace Man Eau Fraîche

Most of my favourite products are from specialist brands such as Acqua di Parma and D. R. Harris so I thought I'd try a couple of men's designer wear 'own label' fragrances. I knew neither of the two I chose, but was drawn to them on the basis of their product descriptions.

Firstly I selected a Versace perfume, Eau Fraîche. This is described as having rosewood and lemon top notes on a base of amber and woody scents. These are my preferences over floral notes and I wasn't disappointed. Versace Man Eau Fraîche is just that, fresh - and slightly lemony on a more complex base that lasts well without being overpowering. The woody elements are very subtle, so that the aquatic freshness is preserved with time.

The second I tried is an Armani perfume, Acqua di Giõ. This is described as having top notes of jasmine and lime, with 'sea notes' and scents including rosemary and cedar. To my nose it is slightly more floral than the Versace, but this is kept in check by a subtly of character and a distinctive seaside character and, indeed, the fragrance is associated with the Italian island of Pantelleria where Giorgio Armani used to spend his time. 

On balance the Armani is my favourite of the two, but, as ever, choice of scent is so personal that I always hesitate to recommend specific products, other than to describe them and suggest you try them.

I can understand why menswear designer houses market fragrances such as these. His choice of cologne marks a man as much as his taste in clothes. The brand that supports its clothing collections with high quality fragrances offers consumers a package that enables them to express themselves comprehensively through their sartorial and fragrance preferences.

This is a sponsored feature.

Comments: Please note that I have now disabled comments on my blog because of the huge volume of spam. However, I welcome and encourage discussion on my Instagram feed where, if you follow me, you can leave your thoughts and queries and where I will respond as soon as I can. 

Men's Fragrances for Autumn and Winter

I find myself using fragrances that match the seasons. Quite unconsciously I select products from a fragrance shop with a comprehensive selection and which reflect the sights, sounds and scents around us as the year unfolds.

For summer it's light florals full of the scents of warm balmy days in the sun and reminiscent of freshly-mown grass and bee-laden garden flowers. What do I choose for the shorter days and the earthy, spicy smells of autumn and winter? The year comes to an end with the fruity fragrances of fallen fruit, the smoke of wood fires, the leathery scents of leaves and the spices we use to prepare winter foods. I look for these aromas in the products I use.

The choice of fragrances if a very personal thing and you should try out a selection

I happen to prefer warm spicy/woody and fresh citrus perfumes over sweeter florals so I look forward to selecting my favourites for autumn and winter. A few I might use are Acqua di Parma Colonia, Truefit & Hill Sandalwood, Floris Santal and Czech and Speake Spanish Cedar. 

Some fragrances are suitable for all seasons. One in particular which I bought recently was a Hermès perfume called Hermès Terre de Hermès. This has intriguing earthy notes lightened by citrus and it lasts well without changing over time. The darker elements mingle with the aroma of grapefruit and oranges, giving this an all-season character.

Hermès Terre d'Hermès on the right

When selecting, spray a small amount onto a tester or your hand, leave it for a short while to allow it to settle before trying. Floral scents tend to fade first, leaving more woody, smoky aromas. If you find these a little heavy, look for a sharp, fresh citrus to provide lightness, balance and interest.

These mentioned are just a tiny proportion of the many available and you will, with care, find something that suits you, your preferences and your budget. With seasonal shopping not too far away, I'd recommend any of these as gifts for those who prefer scents of wood, leather and spices like cinnamon and cloves or the clean smells of lime and lemon. I emphasise; this is a very personal selection based on what I like.

This feature is a sponsored collaboration.

Mountain: A New Fragrance from Thomas Clipper

I've mentioned Thomas Clipper's grooming products here before. Their Mark K Purist razor (unbeatable for the more experienced shaver) and Tuscan leather wash bag are firm favourites and travel with me everywhere (the former when I'm not with beard of course). 

Tuscan Leather Wash bag and Mountain fragrance from Thomas Clipper

Thomas Clipper have also been exploring the world of fragrance. Their Unite Trio fragrances are designed to be blended to your individual taste and style and offer a highly original approach to the man who likes to smell a bit different.

This week they've launched a stand-alone fragrance called Mountain. This can be used on its own or blended with the existing Unite Trio range offering a wide choice of scent characteristics to the adventurous and aromatic gentleman (and indeed woman - why not?). The video below explains how this works better than I can:

As this isn't a scratch and sniff blog I can only try to describe Mountain. It starts as a pleasant mix of floral and smoke settling into something that is reminiscent of a fine whisky enjoyed in a mountain hut by an aromatic wood fire. That sounds pretentious, I suspect, but try it and you'll see what I mean.

Mountain is French designed but British-made and available from Thomas Clipper.

See my previous blog features on Thomas Clipper here.

I was sent a sample to try. This post is otherwise unsponsored.

Men's Fragrances for Summer Travel

As the weather warms up I tend to go to fresher, lighter fragrances for travel and summer use. For me, heat and humidity go best with a refreshing citrus scent. It's not that I don't like woody/spicy fragrances; they're among my favourites, but I prefer the sharpness of lemon to more complex notes when the weather is warm. 

Some may prefer floral products, but for me they are less effective at cutting through the sticky discomfort of a summer's day. Of course a purely citrus scent would soon pale, so it needs some florals or spice to support it, but the balance mustn't take away that refreshing sharpness.

Some summer fragrances for men - links below

I've picked out from my cupboard the products I reach for as it gets warmer. Most start with citrus notes while some, like Flaneur, are more floral, others more spicy - but all are refreshing. King's Wood from Shay & Blue becomes woody with a melon tone but remains very fresh, while Tom Daxon's new Laconia remains sharply citrus. You can never go wrong with Floris (JF) or Acqua di Parma (Colonia Pura) which introduce other welcome scents. A firm favourite of mine is D.R. Harris's Windsor where citrus meets ginger. Gruhme No. 14 I use all year.

There are many more, of course, that I'd use in summer and you will have your own preferences. Do let me know what your recommendations are. Please remember that fragrances are a very personal thing and you should try on if you can before buying. 

Remember also that if you're flying with your favourite fragrances you will need to check regulations to see what volume of such products you can carry, but most small bottles will be 50 or 100mg.

Tom Daxon

Gruhme

Flaneur from Chap Magazine

Floris

Acqua di Parma

D.R. Harris

Shay & Blue

This is an unsponsored post. Some of these products were gifted in the past, but not for this feature.

Geo. F. Trumper: Reader Competition

I featured Geo. F. Trumper on these pages very recently. So pleased were Trumpers by the interest shown by Grey Fox Blog readers and Instagram audience that they're offering products to be won in a competition on their Instagram account (link below). 

Visiting Geo. F. Trumper in Curzon Street London for a wonderful grooming experience

I also had the chance to try the services available at their Curzon Street shop where I had a beard trim and head massage - one of the most pleasant grooming experiences I've ever had. The calm, friendly atmosphere of the shop provides the perfect backdrop for a relaxing, subtly fragranced and very traditional shave, trim, haircut and I can't recommend it highly enough.

Trumpers have a wonderful range of fragrances, from citrus, through spicy to floral carefully balanced in different proportions in each product. I had the chance to select from these for their competition and decided on their Paisley range - citrus with spicy, soapy notes, making a perfect all round gentleman's fragrance which no doubt would smell gorgeous on women too.

To enter the competition go to Trumper's Instagram account to the post announcing the competition where you should follow Trumpers and tag two friends to enter. Competition closes Friday 28th June, winner to be announced 1700 that day.

My previous feature on Trumpers can be read here.

This is a collaboration with Geo. F. Trumper.

Men's Fragrances: A Man's Guide to Selecting a Scent

How does a man select a grooming product? The power of a good fragrance cannot be overstated. the sense of smell evokes memories which bring back powerful emotions around people and places we've loved and enjoyed. Like our clothes and accessories, fragrances make a persuasive statement about you and your personal style. A scent that complements rather than overwhelms can send a sophisticated message to others about who you are and what you represent.

I've come to appreciate the regular use of fragrances in the past couple of years, having previously rarely used anything scented other than shaving soap. I've found that the choice of niche perfumes for men can be a confusing and even overwhelming. How best to select a suitable product and be confident that it's a good quality product?

The best place to start is a high street or online store with a good choice of men's aftershave. Go for established names and try those first. You cannot go wrong with well known brands like Acqua di Parma, Creed, Czech & Speake, Guerlain, Jo Malone and Tom Ford to name just a few of the many reputable makes available. Look for a history of success in the industry - for example Creed have been making men's fragrances since 1760 and have a well-established reputation. Their Creed Aventus is a favourite which will leave a lasting impression.

Fragrances come with different styles and strengths and can smell quite different depending on who's wearing them. It's important to try a few or to read the description of each to decide whether you're looking for a floral, citrus or more earthy scent - or a certain combination of these. If you try on a product remember that it will change its character over minutes and hours - this is a sign of a complex and good quality product. Lighter top notes - citrus and florals - will rarely be as lingering as more earthy, woody or even spicy bottom notes but they give a fresh start which then develops to allow the middle (or heart) and base notes to take over, often for hours. 

I tend to go for spicy scents, but I like the sharp freshness of citrus to balance these, although such top notes will not last as long as the spicy base ones. Florals give complex scents which most men prefer balanced with more musky notes, but the choice is entirely yours and you should develop your own tastes, perhaps informed by the reactions of those around you to the fragrances you try.

I want to emphasise that fragrance selection is very personal - largely because we like different scents and products smell different on each of us - so rely on your own experiments to make a selection that will eventually become your favourites.

Enjoy your search for a personal fragrance.

This feature is a sponsored collaboration. I selected the fragrance brands to mention and all views expressed are my own.

Geo. F. Trumper: The Best of Grooming Products

Those of us who are frequent visitors to Jermyn Street, that London epicentre of men's and women's style, will have noticed Trumper's on Duke of York Street. Its elegantly packed window promises traditional style and sophistication. George F. Trumper opened his barber shop in Curzon Street, Mayfair, over 100 years ago. His clientele was ‘the gentry’ and this explains its gentlemen’s club atmosphere. The business's reputation came to the notice of the Royal Court and Trumper’s became Court Hairdressers receiving Royal Warrants from Queen Victoria and each successive monarch thereafter.

Trumper's sent me some products to try

Mr George Trumper blended his grooming products in his basement at his Curzon Street shop, using natural essential oils from around the world. Some of these original formulae are still used, but the range has been adapted to the modern world while preserving a distinctive and gentlemanly subtle and sophisticated English character.

The fragrance and grooming collection includes a wide range of colognes, skin care, shaving creams and soaps, bath and shower soaps and gels, shampoos, hairdressings and deodorants and is supported by a comprehensive range of exclusive grooming accessories. 

Geo. F. Trumper's Eucris products

I was sent a box of products based around their Eucris fragrance. When first applied this very gentlemanly scent has a lemony, peppery, woody character which settles with time (as do all good scents) to a subtle fragrance which, for me, is reminiscent of leather bound books, pepper, lemon, sunbaked straw, cigars and summer days. Eucris is used in everything from shaving cream, through deodorant to an eau de parfum which, lightly applied, lasts for ages and remains subtle and fresh.

Trumper's products are vegan-friendly and come beautifully packaged, with their coronet shaped stoppers reflecting the heritage of the business. If you can't visit the shop to buy or to have a shave, haircut or facial massage, you can purchase products through the Geo. F. Trumper website.

Geo. F. Trumper's Curzon Street shop

This feature is a paid collaboration with Geo. F. Trumper. All views are mine alone.

Wilde & Harte Grooming and an Offer for Readers

I've been trying out some shaving and grooming products from Wilde & Harte (link below) who like to use British-made products when they can. I thought I'd find out more about the business from Paul Thompson who's kindly offered to send some Truefitt & Hill shaving cream free with any orders using the code below. For those of who who like a traditional foamy shaving soap with a delicious fragrance, this is a real treat.

Wilde & Harte Eltham safety razor

GF: Hello Paul, I've had the chance of trying some of your products and like what I see. I have enjoyed the Truefitt & Hill shave soap and the elegant Eltham safety razor. Can you tell us a little about W&H to introduce it to us?

PT: Thank you David, great to hear your positive comments about our products. Wilde & Harte is a high-end shaving accessory brand, positioned perfectly at gentlemen looking to acquire genuine British made razors and shaving brushes.

Featuring traditional and contemporary designs - each inspired by the grandeur of iconic Houses and Palaces in London - Wilde & Harte has forged a reputation for manufacturing the finest quality razors and shaving brushes for discerning wet shaving enthusiasts here in the UK, Europe, North America and more recently, Asia.

Each razor and shaving brush handle is engineered from stainless steel and hand polished to an impeccable mirror finish, before being assembled to create a stunning and perfectly weighted razor or shaving brush. Each item is monogrammed, adding an impressive finishing touch to a unique shaving accessory, before being packaged in a handmade branded gift box.

The elegant lines of the Wilde & Harte safety razor

GF: Most of your products are made in the UK? Is this important to you? Why?

PT: Our aim is to make Wilde & Harte synonymous with beautifully crafted, British made shaving accessories. Britain’s rich history of designing and manufacturing innovative, high quality products for customers the world over is unrivalled. With such creative inspiration and engineering expertise at our disposal, it has been enormously rewarding to engage with British talent at every stage of the development of the brand and of our shaving products.

Even before the Wilde & Harte name was created, it was important for us to source British manufacturers, skilled metal polishers and packaging designers and share with them our vision to make the brand as British as we possibly could. Our products demonstrate the very best of contemporary and classic British product design and high-end manufacturing.

Furthermore, Wilde & Harte Ltd are members of the 'Made in Britain’ campaign. An initiative which is endorsed by the British Government and only accredited to a business who can provide evidence that items for sale under the business brand have been 'Made in UK'.

GF: Do you see an expansion in interest in men's grooming and shaving products?

PT: Yes, absolutely. The men’s wet shaving market is flourishing at the moment with new fragrances, pre-shave products, post shave products, shaving subscription platforms, and a wealth of different designs of razors and shaving brushes being introduced to the wet shaving community regularly.

Wilde & Harte have experienced many more enquiries regarding how to shave with a safety razor and consequently, an increase of sales of our Eltham and Osterley safety razors over the last couple of years. Many customers now email us with their experiences shaving with different brands of luxury shaving creams, how to whip up a perfect shaving brush lather and of their tried and tested pre-shave and post shave habits. For many gentlemen today, shaving is a ritual of indulgence and experimentation. A time to treat oneself and enjoy a truly satisfying regular routine.

We only have to look at the visitor statistics of the Wilde & Harte blog to confirm our belief that more of us are wanting to learn about the benefits of traditional wet shaving.

Soft leather razor pouch from Wilde & Harte

GF: Where will you be taking W&H over the next few years?

PT: Good question. It’s important for Wilde & Harte to remain focussed on bringing to market, the finest quality British made razors and shaving brushes. However, in addition to this, we are looking at introducing a range of our own luxury shaving cream and expanding our range of travel shaving products in 2019 and beyond.

It’s a very exciting time for the men’s grooming sector and for Wilde & Harte. There is strong demand for high-end shaving products and we will continue to satisfy the demands of all discerning wet shaving enthusiasts with beautifully crafted shaving accessories which are designed, manufactured and packaged here in the UK.

.....................................................................

With many thanks to Paul Thomspon. Visit Wilde & Harte for more information and to buy. If the promotion code “greyfox" is used at checkout, the recipient will receive a Truefitt & Hill shaving cream (pictured below) with their order. Any razor may be ordered on the website.

This is a collaboration between Grey Fox Blog and Wilde & Harte.

Truefitt & Hill shaving cream

What do Women Find Attractive in an Older Man? Louise Proddow of Rejuvage Tells Us All

We dress well for many reasons. We may just enjoy good quality clothes, we may find that looking our best helps us in business, boosting confidence and giving an impression of competence and reliability. But one of the greatest pleasures is to be complimented by a woman, whether she be a close friend, stranger or work colleague. 

I recently met Louise Proddow of Rejuvage (link below) and, having discussed this, we decided to write a piece for each other's blogs on what each of us found attractive about the opposite sex in terms of style. Here Louise shares her guide to 'midlife men style turn-ons' as she termed it.  

Louise Proddow writes: 

As a midlife wellness advocate with a deep passion for health and positive ageing, for me, the hallmark of good style comes from a holistic approach. What makes a man stylish and attractive at every age goes beyond simply the clothes they put on in the morning. Style is a mixture of how you look after yourself, what you wear and your attitude. It’s doesn’t matter if you look good in clothes if you hide your body in the beach or in the bedroom, for me its all about balance. 

Style begins on the inside out 

A good diet full of unprocessed foods and regular exercise is not only good for the body, but it is good for style. It gives skin that healthy glow, promotes wellbeing and clothes fit better on toned bodies. The trim and healthy man beats a middle-aged potbelly and ruddy complexion any day. 

Louise (top left) and some of her midlife male turn-ons

Classics with a modern twist 

Some well-cut clothes with a twist shows personality. Mix up investment pieces and quality fabrics with some high street purchases such as a well cut blue or grey suit with a t-shirt and some smart trainers. In hot weather, lightweight tailoring in breathable natural fabrics is a must too. I am also a big fan of the Gareth Southgate waistcoat trend – it’s a great look for holding it all it in too! 

Have a relaxed approach to dressing 

Mix it up your styles - rugged to smooth, something old with something new. A relaxed attitude dressing oozes confidence, which is always attractive. Show a bit ankle with some slip-on shoes and hidden socks or leave your shirt un-tucked - for me, stylish comfort over stuffy formality wins. Avoid buying a completely new outfit, especially on a date as it oozes trying too hard. 

Casual grooming

Over tanned, over hair dyed, over waxed – over grooming is a no go and definitely a turn-off. Having said that, clean is the new dirty; I like a man to smell nice in a Tom Ford kind of way with clean fingernails and hydrated skin. 

The power of individuality

A man with his own personal style and twinkle in eye always attracts my attention. There is no reason to be dull in middle age so let your clothes do the talking. Whether you’re creative and outgoing, a city type or a country gent there are an endless array of looks, colours, fabrics, styles. It’s time to replace those old faded jumpers with some personality. 

Embrace the grey 

It’s the George Clooney effect! Embrace the grey, tap into your inner silver fox. Hair is optional, but if you have it definitely ditch the dye! 

There is an old saying that we become invisible in middle age, that’s not the case for men or women today. Wear whatever you want at any age, make a bit of an effort, but do not over do it. Look after yourself, throw in a few classics like a crisp shirt and clean-cut suit, add a bit of personality and embrace your own style. Look after yourself inside out for ageless style. 

You only have to look on dating websites or walk down the street to see that those with style stand out. Plus if you can make us laugh to then you're on to a winner! 

NOTE: With many thanks to Louise Proddow who curates Rejuvage, a blog about ageing with style and health. You can read my return article, 'In Praise of Older Women', here.

Executive Shaving: British-made grooming products

While I don't only talk about British-made products, it's always good to hear about those that are made here. Men's grooming is a growing industry and Executive Shaving make their shaving and other products in the UK where they can.

They sent me a selection of items to try (some pictured above), including a razor which is lathe-turned in Glasgow (the head is German). The shaving cream and balm are made in England, the pre shave oil and soap are made in Scotland, the brush and stand are from India. 

The razor is described as 'medium aggressive' and certainly I found it less so than my usual razor. I'm an experienced double-edged blade user and don't mind risking a few nicks for a close shave. With a more aggressive razor greater concentration and care is needed; although the end-result is superior it is riskier! However, a razor like the 'Braveheart' (pictured below) is ideal for the man who likes to rush his shave in the morning, or for the less experienced and occasional user. A double pass may be needed but the whole experience is less demanding.

Braveheart Safety Razor from Executive Shaving - the handle is lathed in Glasgow

The cream, oils and balms have delicious scents. I'm not a lover of florals but these have a variety of gorgeous soapy, citrussy scents - with the additional benefit of being British-made. I favour using a pre-shave oil as this lays a good foundation for a rich lather and eases the blade over the most stubborn of beards. The products here work well and have become favourites.

The shaving brush has synthetic hair; my preference as I don't like to think of badgers suffering for smooth chin. I find artificial brushes totally effective with the additional advantage that they don't need the careful drying and storage that pure bristle requires. Executive Shaving have a sensibly balanced article on this topic here.

I also had some samples of cologne by Trumpers and other items illustrating the varied selection available online from Executive Shaving.

Links to products sent, more information and prices:

Executive Shaving Braveheart Safety Razor

Executive Shaving Citrus Kiss Shaving Cream & Balm

Executive Shaving Pre Shave Oil

Executive Shaving Face & Body Soap

Executive Shaving Medium Size Jock Synthetic Shaving Brush in Faux Horn

Executive Shaving Shaving Brush Stand

This article was sponsored by Executive Shaving. As ever, all views are mine alone.

Last Minute Grooming Gifts for Father's Day from eBay [Sponsored]

It seems that most of us leave our Father's Day gifts to the last minute but that we plan ahead better when it comes to buying for Mother's Day. eBay have published research that shows that one in six of us buys grooming gifts for fathers and that these are second only to alcohol in popularity. Inspired by men like George Clooney and David Beckham, men are now persuaded that being clean and sweet-smelling can be manly. 

Apparently we also spend slightly less on Dad than on Mum; £25 as opposed to £32. However, father's gifts are more varied than for mother, covering not only grooming but also golfing, sunglasses and alcohol gifts. Mother's gifts are, surprisingly, mainly alcoholic!

eBay's Men's Grooming Hub contains some 230,000 grooming products which include names like L'Oreal and Mo Bro's covering every possible male grooming need. Below are some suggested gifts to try.

Some gifts to try (and others pictured above):

L'Oreal Men Expert Anti-Fatigue Moisturiser

L'Oreal Men Expert Skin & Stubble Purifying Face Wash

Mo Bro's - Vanilla & Mango Beard Conditioning Balm

Mo Bro's XL 8 Piece Grooming Kit

Most grooming gifts are related to shaving and beards, as you can see from the list of most popular gifts on eBay.co.uk:

1. razor 
2. aftershave 
3. beard trimmer 
4. beard oil 
5. beard comb 
6. beard kit 
7. beard balm 
8. beard gift set

This post is a collaboration with eBayUK.