Evelyn Waugh: The Comfort and Style of a Tweed Suit

The Italian word 'sprezzatura' perfectly describes that rather dishevelled but Oh-so-English look of a well-used tweed suit, as worn with such aplomb by so many men in the early half of the twentieth century. I came across the image below of author Evelyn Waugh which perfectly illustrates that casual, crumpled and unselfconscious English style. How can we emulate that comfortable tweedy appearance today?

Evelyn Waugh by Mark Gerson 1963

Waugh's suit appears to be a heavyweight tweed (they would normally have been fairly robust cloth in those days) in a shepherd check. As is normal with a well-worn-in tweed, it looks as comfortable as an old jumper and pair of jeans might be to us today. Men were used to wearing tailoring in those days, and Waugh would have thought nothing of throwing himself down on the sofa for a post-prandial nap fully clothed in his three-piece.

It's this slightly disordered but so natural and unforced look, the result of wearing a suit day in and day out, that's often admired in the English (or more strictly British) man of that era. Sadly today's man has largely abandoned tailoring in favour of casual wear or that mix of leisure and sports wear, 'athleisure', that, while possibly easy to wear, lacks elegance or style. 

The art of wearing tailoring for relaxation has been lost and today it's felt that sloppy and shapeless is necessary for easy wear. Evelyn Waugh shows us that this is a mistaken view. Tweed is a casual cloth, designed originally for easy movement outdoors, retaining its shape and protecting the wearer from the elements. A good quality cloth is soft, robust and lightweight, moulding readily to the body. Its forgiving nature means that it doesn't need to be treated with care, like a flannel business suit. 

Worn well the tweed suit combines effortless style with comfort. Let's buy more tweed suits (I suggest some sources of new and vintage tweeds below).

Waugh wears a houndstooth check tweed suit with a jaunty buttonhole

Vintage Tweed Suits

If you like your tweed suit traditional and heavy duty, try a vintage example. I bought a Harris tweed suit that must have been over 60 years old some years ago. The tweed was very heavy and you will find this is common with older suits. After some alterations it fitted well, but was too warm for indoor wear. 

If you buy online check with the seller for moth holes, torn linings and a general smell of damp, age or mothballs. And of course you should ask for detailed measurements, comparing them to a suit that you know fits. Aim for minimal alterations as too great a change to size isn't always successful.

Here are a few links - you may find more:

Hornets Vintage

Savvy Row

Fogey Unlimited

New Tweed Suits

Any tailor will be delighted to make a tweed suit - whether made to measure of fully bespoke will depend on your budget and preferences. Ready to wear (RTW) is the affordable option and most stores and tailors will alter a suit to fit as well as possible. 

Here are a few suggested links - there are many more out there and I've confined myself to a few stores and tailors I know or have experience of:

Dege & Skinner for the full bespoke Savile Row experience and a suit that will fit to perfection.

Susannah Hall - British made suits.

Cordings of Piccadilly - their affordable RTW suits are made of the best tweed. They fit me perfectly, but they will alter for you if needed.

Campbell's of Beauly - in Scotland near Inverness: a tweed heaven offering RTW and bespoke tailoring. They specialise in estate tweeds. This is a topic on its own, but many Scottish sporting estates have since Victorian times developed their own tweeds, the colours and patterns reflecting the colours of their local rock, heather, water and skies.

David Hockney's Yellow Crocs And Why is Menswear So Boring?

The recent sight of David Hockney wearing yellow Crocs at an Order of Merit meeting at Buckingham Palace caused a stir in the Press. Crocs - in front of His Majesty! 

As a man of style, King Charles took it all in his stride of course, commenting, "Your yellow galoshes! Beautifully chosen." But how significant is it that such a striking choice of footwear should make such an impact? Is it because many of us are now wearing menswear that is dingy, dark and dull; that we aren't used to seeing displays of sartorial sassiness in men? 

How often does what we wear reflect our personalities rather than simply an acquired look or trend?

Light in the gloom.
Hockney's Crocs (and the women) light up a monochrome OM luncheon meeting.

The above image of those attending the Order of Merit luncheon shows how men's formal business wear is traditionally dark: black or dark blues predominate. This is nothing new. Since the early nineteenth century most men have avoided colour and bright pattern, a trend marked by Beau Brummell's choice of plain and sober clothing. Victorian men adopted darker hues to emphasise their serious, god-fearing and industrious approach to life.

This continued into the twentieth century and, while the sixties signalled as temporary shift to colour and pattern for the young in particular, we seem to have returned to a period when both young and old prefer darker clothing, whether for formal or casual wear. Look at any high street, where drab hoodies, quilted coats and jeans predominate. Maybe this is a reflection of the times. Do we feel that here isn't much to be cheerful about in the world at the moment and does this reflect in our sober choices of clothing? 

Hockney's outfit at the OM luncheon is a welcome change. He has chosen to dress in a way that is comfortable and still reflects his character and interests. We may not all approve of the yellow Crocs, but the lighter coloured check tweed suit is a style that we could all adopt. Try patterned tweeds, bright knitwear, trousers in brighter hues, bold striped shirts and pastel contrasting socks to move away from this monochrome madness.

Book Review: The Rebel's Wardrobe pub. by Gestalten

To while away the long winter nights, I recommend reading The Rebel’s Wardrobe: The Untold Story of Menswear’s Renegade Past (published by Gestalten 2022). The book explores many items of menswear, their origins and the men, famous and not, who wore them before they became popular daily wear.

From the white t-shirt and workwear through flying jackets to the Aran sweater, safari jackets, denim and trench coats, hats and footwear, it takes a fascinating look at selected items of mens's clothing that started out as radical signs of rebellion only to become mainstream. 

The book is informative rather than merely descriptive and covers men and their clothing from both sides of the Atlantic. It's well presented with a good balance of images to text. There are one or two very minor errors: an image of a father showing his son how to lace up 'work boots' is actually lacing and blancoing canvas cricket boots and I haven't seen the spelling 'mack' for a 'mac' or mackintosh coat before - but these are very rare and don't take away from a readable and interesting look at menswear's heritage.

Highly recommended for any enthusiast of menswear and its history and context. For more information and to buy the book go to Gestalten.

All images: Illustration Florian Bayer, The Rebel's Wardrobe, gestalten 2022

Karen Henriksen: British-Made Hats With a Twist

Over the years I've found myself wearing hats more and more. This may be partly to take advantage of their protection as my hair thins, but, more so, because a hat is such a vital part of the personal style equation. Whether a trilby, cap, beanie, hood or sou'wester, a hat adds character to a look as well as being highly practical at keeping off the sun or rain. 

Karen Henriksen is a London-based milliner making hats for men and women that offer something slightly different in terms of style, cut (Karen describes her asymmetric seams below) and practicability (links below):

Wearing Karen Henriksen: left: Shetland wool 'Jake' - right: linen-blend 'Selby'

Karen kindly made me two caps which I've worn regularly over the summer and autumn. They are beautifully made, fit well and offer something slightly different to the usual shapes and styles. I asked her to tell us something about her craft:

GF:  Please introduce yourself and your business.

KH: Originally from Yorkshire (from a farming family on my father's side). My mother's family were from Blackburn, and worked in the cotton mills - so I feel there might be a mixed heritage of hard work, textiles and tweed caps going on somewhere subliminal! I have spent most of my life and career in London.

My business focuses on headwear for everyday with a creative twist, an 'everyday elegance' - classic styles such as flat caps, trilby hats and baker-boy caps for men and women, with something a little different. I mainly work with the cut and sew method, creating shapes with interesting tailored seams where you might not expect them. Based at Cockpit Bloomsbury since 2005.

GF: How did you get into millinery and hat making?

KH: I completed a degree in fashion and textiles in Birmingham in the '80s. It became clear at University that fashion design was not for me - but the details of fashion (stitching, embroidery) as well as the craft of cutting and putting together a garment fascinated me (and still does!). I already had an interest in headwear back then and designed hats in addition to the clothes for my final collection. Pretty soon after graduating I started working in millinery, working my way around some of the best millinery work rooms in London, this was in the 1990's. During this time I developed the technical know-how to craft high quality hats, mainly occasion hats for women.

In the early 2000's I attended the Royal College to do a millinery MA. With the making skills I had already developed within the millinery industry, I was able to really focus on developing my creativity, be experimental and develop my own signature style. For my final collection I took utilitarian headwear such as headscarves, hoodies and sou'westers and transformed them into windswept, sculptural pieces. This led to experiments with asymmetric pattern-cutting, and my own version of a traditional English icon, the flat cap - revisited with an asymmetric twist, which became known as the Windswept Cap. 

The playful design ethos I developed for the Windswept collection was the foundation for my business, and is still at the heart of it today.

Karen Henriksen, Milliner

GF: How would you describe the style of both your men's and women's hats?

KH: Distinctive hats with tailoring detail, classic styles revisited with a contemporary twist, in high quality fabrics.

Being made from fabric (rather than blocked in felt or straw) is a practical choice and means I can offer trilby styles for example that can be stored easily and are more user-friendly than felt hats. But I also love the glamour and sophistication often associated with classic hats of the 1920s to 1950s, and always try to bring that to my designs (back to the 'everyday elegance' concept - mixing practicality with style).

My hats are firmly on the slow fashion side, being quite timeless in design and made to be worn for a lifetime.

GF: Do you make all the hats yourself?

KH: Pretty much! I have a small team in my studio at Cockpit in central London, but it's quite a lean operation. Controlling the making process completely in-house means I can offer special styles and design variations for clients - crucially, I also offer a large selection of head sizes. I have clients from far and wide (Iceland, South Korea and the USA!) buying from me because they love hats but can't get hold of one that fits them just right.

This is also more environmentally friendly as every hat is made to order, and to size - so less waste is involved.

After nearly 20 years making hats under my own brand, I still get so much pleasure from the making process.

GF: Your men's hat shapes are different from the traditional styles - how do you arrive at a style for a hat during the design process?

KH: My design process is hands-on, working directly with pattern-cutting - it is very time consuming and quite instinctual! To arrive at a finished design I would usually make between 4 and 10 toiles (test pieces made from calico or another test fabric). Sometimes the design process starts from a client comment or request, other times it begins with an idea for a variation or a hybrid between two styles. This is how I end up with hybrids such as beret-caps, flat cap/baker-boy cap, visor-caps, and trilby/pork pie hats... The list goes on!

GF: Have you seen a change in the attitudes of men towards hat buying?

KH: I'd say that they have really embraced buying online and are confident in doing so. It has certainly been a huge learning curve for me, designing and making for men (not sure where I am on the curve - still very much learning!) Certainly, the men's side of my business has grown so much in the past few years - I'd say from around 10% about 10 years ago, to about 50% now.

GF: How do you see the business developing over the next few years?

KH: I think the growth of the men's side is likely to continue - so much so that I may well wish to bring someone in to help me continue to develop this part of the business. 

I'm also now embarking on a new strand of work, creating art for interiors. Initially, this is a range of sculptural lightshades, just launched at London Design Festival last month.

My Karen Henriksen caps showing the tailoring detail and asymmetric seams

GF: Do you wear hats daily yourself? How would you describe your personal style?

KH: Yes, especially in the winter. And I always have a rain hat and a sun visor in my bag, ready for any eventuality!

When it comes to fashion I have a few favourites that are quite classic, mainly in black and khaki. Keeping it simple to highlight the hat, and/or maybe a statement necklace or ring. And I live in trainers (I walk everywhere!).

GF: Many thanks, Karen, both for the hats and for your thoughts above.

Contact: 

KAREN HENRIKSEN
Designer/Maker
www.karenhenriksen.co.uk

kh_millinery
kh_mens_hats
kh_couture_home

Studio E2P, Cockpit Bloomsbury
Northington Street
London WC1N 2NP
+44 (0)7946 530442

Ten Ways to Personal Style: Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab

Thankfully we all have a very personal styles and no two of us have identical tastes or wear the same clothes. In this feature we further explore the theme of style with the help of a great friend, personal stylist Sarah Gilfillan (link to her website below) who has advised me often on finer points of menswear style. 

Different styles: how do you find yours? (I'm with Svante Nybyggars)

Sarah advises men on menswear and style through her personal styling consultancy at Sartoria Lab (link below) and is therefore well-placed to give her thoughts on this knotty topic. Here are her Ten Points of Style:

• Find out what colours suit you – experiment with trying out new colours – what have people complimented you on the past? What makes your skin look healthy and brings attention to your eyes? 

Try and figure out if you have a warm skin tone (olive, freckly or golden looking) which suit colours like khaki, mustard and tan. Or a cool skin tone (pale or pink toned, or cool brown) – which look good in most blues, cooler greens like jade/forest and pink toned reds.

• Analyse the details of things you’ve bought and liked in the past - what did you like – was it the shape that suited you, did you like the fabric or texture, or was it the colour? Do you prefer things that are smooth and sleek or ones with tweedy textures and a more worn in look? Do you like a sharp silhouette or more relaxed and less structured shapes?

• Try out new things every so often. If you’re out shopping, take a “wild card” item into the fitting room with you – something you wouldn’t normally try on but like the look of. You might find it suits you and you’ve made a brand new discovery.

• Pay attention to the finishing off points – try on a size up or down to get the right fit, add a scarf or an interesting belt to your outfit. Fit is the starting point of looking good and accessories can take an outfit from looking okay to great.

• Think about your outfit as a whole – when you’re buying something new think about what you’ll wear it with. Can you layer things underneath it or on top of it? Does it need a contrast in colour between the top and the bottom to enhance it? Do the proportions work with things you have eg; if you move to wearing wider leg trousers from slim, you might need to update your footwear to something chunkier to balance them.

• Buy to fit your lifestyle –if you mainly wear practical, casual clothes every day, then spend the money on them rather than a suit that you wear twice a year. Look for practical items that have some unusual detailing, and try mixing interesting colours together, or accessorising with scarves, cool socks or belts to bring a modern edge to them.

• Go to different shops for new discoveries – and if they have helpful shop assistants, make use of them. Things change and the shop you’ve always been to may have a different designer now which isn’t your thing or you may have grown out of it. Have a look on Instagram to find new brands to try out.

• Contrasts can be interesting – if you have an outfit in one colour like navy then contrasting textures like denim, cashmere and suede work well. A blazer looks best with trousers in a contrasting colour or texture, so it doesn’t look like a mismatched suit. You can also play around with contrasting smart and casual items like a chambray shirt worn with a suit to make it look more casual.

• Update your hairstyle and glasses – you can have an amazing outfit but if your hairstyle and glasses look old fashioned then it can ruin it. It can just be a few tweaks to your hairstyle (using a bit of product / having a definite parting) or if you don’t have any hair, using a darker or more colourful frame will make more of an impact to your look.

• Figure out what you think is “you” and expand it eg: if you like tweed jackets could you try a tweed bomber jacket or overcoat? If you love the simplicity of a suit but don’t have the occasion to wear it could you replicate the pared back style with more casual things like a navy cardigan, white button down shirt, navy chinos and black leather trainers? If you always wear jeans could you try grey or ecru instead of blue, or cord instead of denim?

To contact Sarah about her personal styling consultancy services, see Sartoria Lab.

This feature follows on from my How To Find Your Personal Style: A Ten Point Guide

HM The Queen - Platinum Jubilee

On 6 February 2022 Her Majesty The Queen became the first British Monarch to celebrate a Platinum Jubilee, marking 70 years of service to the people of the United Kingdom, the Realms and the Commonwealth. 

I'm 67 years old and Queen Elizabeth II has been sovereign for all those years. Her reign has been truly remarkable and, while the future of the monarchy is questioned by some, few question the huge benefits she has personally brought to this country.

Many Congratulations on 70 Glorious Years!

Her Majesty aboard HMY Britannia in 1972 - photo by Lichfield

Artist & Stick Maker: Helen Elizabeth Roberts

One of the benefits of Instagram is the contacts that can be made through it. I heard from artist, crafter and stick maker, Helen Elizabeth Roberts about her work and couldn't resist showing you the wonderfully painted sticks made that she makes.

I haven't seen the sticks in the flesh, but they look so beautiful in the images I wanted to talk to her to find out more about her craft.

Helen Elizabeth Roberts, artist and stick maker

GF: Please introduce yourself

HER: Hello, my name is Helen Elizabeth Roberts I am an artist, stick maker and crafter. Having a firm sense of place I am inspired by my surroundings, capturing the spirit of where I live. Using a variety of different mediums I communicate rural life through my artwork. Often depicting the interaction between the rural community and its wildlife historically and present day.

I adore the coast & countryside and all that goes with it. My special love is for the forests, the mountains and the fast running rivers, streams and brooks. I have a passion when it comes to animals and birds having the luxury of being surrounded by them at home. The countryside, wildlife and animals have a very strong influence on my work. But I do like to paint other subjects when the opportunities arise.

A selection of sticks made and painted by Helen Elizabeth Roberts

GF: You describe yourself as an artist and stick maker, how did you come to be an artist and what led you to stick making?

HER: I have always been that person, even as a child who could be found sketching, painting, or making things in my spare time. But my creations were rarely seen by anyone outside my family circle. Realising as I have matured the only thing stopping me now is me. So your question “how did I become an artist?" I would answer: I have always been one but only recently have I been brave enough to shout “I am an artist, this is who I am”. Stick making however came about through a sort of challenge. My partner is a big shooting man and wanted a new thumb stick. He wanted something unique and different but he could not find anything he liked. I said I would have a go at making him one and here I am today a few years on still making and painting bespoke one off pieces.

GF: How did you learn the skills of stick making?

HER: The internet is such a valuable source of information and help. Skilled and sometimes people learning too happily sharing their knowledge and experience online. So I made the most of this source and this is how I learnt. I still have the first stick I crafted depicting flying grouse with a shooting man, his two English pointers by his side. It is a good reminder of where it all started and how much I have progressed over the few years. I learnt a lot by trial and error, using different processes until I had a method that suited me best.

Recent work by Helen Elizabeth Roberts

GF: Do you see your sticks as practical objects or as works of art?

HER: It is mostly about the art for me so I see them as unique works of art first which have the advantage of being a practical piece too. Some clients use the sticks for walking, hiking or shooting loving to show them off when out and about. Whilst others are stick collector’s, people wanting an art piece to decorate their hall in a stick stand or to be hung up as wall art. Either way they are a great talking point.

GF: Please describe the process of selecting the wood, making and painting your sticks.

HER: All sticks are lovingly handcrafted made from natural materials, constructed using traditional stick making methods.

These sticks are very tactile as well as stunning and different to look at. The handles are lovely to hold. You can feel the contours of the wood on the shaft and part of the painting technique means the painted surface is not always totally smooth giving it more life and interest.

As I am so busy I now have a wonderful supplier in the UK who provides the stag horn and straightens the shafts which are seasoned for at least 1 year. I handpick all my stock and look for a shaft that is as thick and straight where possible. I do use thinner shafts at times when required. If a person wants a commission they can choose if they would like a thinner or thicker stick.

For stag horn thumbsticks and wading staffs, naturally shed red deer antler is used to make a beautiful tactile handle or thumb rest. Tipped and finished off with black buffalo horn or cow horn which I hand work and polish to a high gloss. I add a collar of buffalo horn which is also worked and polished. To finish a high gloss vanish is used. All sticks are fitted with a brass (or rubber if grip is required) ferrule to protect the bottom.

Each stick is hand painted, the shaft framing the unique piece of original art work signed and dated by myself. And finally to finish, marine varnish is used to add lustre and further protection to the naturally durable materials and artwork.

I work personally with each client, listen to their story for the piece so I can capture the spirit of what they want to see and feel each time they gaze upon their finished artwork. I have a league time of 2 months for a bespoke commissioned stick from preparation to the finished product.

Sticks by Helen Elizabeth Roberts

GF: Have you always had an interest in rural life and wildlife?

HER: Yes, but have not always had the opportunity to embrace it fully till now. You could truly describe my life journey by looking at my past and present attire. I have gone from being suited and high heel booted, to Dubarry deck shoes Musto sailing coats with life jacket then finally at last having my green hunter wellies, Barbour wax jacket and Tweed flat cap. I have always been an animal lover having pets all my life. Even from a young age I always adored our British coast and countryside appreciating everything it has to offer. I moved near the coast in my 30’s and deeper into the countryside in my 40’s really embracing rural life fully. Now still surrounded by various pets and animals with my partner I truly feel rural in every way.

GF: How do you see your business developing?

HER: I do not know what the future holds at this stage. This is the most contented stage of my life being with my animals in a rural environment having the privilege to be able to create works of art that bring joy to peoples lives by giving them a little piece of countryside in an art form.

With the positive feedback I receive I can see my business growing steadily especially as I now have more exposure. But, I would like to develop my business in a way that does not dilute my unique style. And to be able to still provide the personal touch which people love when commissioning a piece of art.

As well as my my unique hand painted sticks I also offer limited edition gicleé fine art prints, homeware and natural feather hat pins.

GF: Many thanks for this fascinating insight into your life as artist, stick maker and nature lover.

Links:
Website: www.helenelizabethstudios.com
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCO-lmYtKwpPO5YemehXbaxg
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/helenelizabethstudios/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/helenelizabethstudios

Masters of Style 15: Andrew Poupart @styleafter50

This is the last of the current chapter of Masters of Style (and I apologise that it's a week overdue). The range of style influences covered by this series so far has been satisfyingly diverse, covering most quarters of the globe, and also eclectic, ranging from vintage workwear through American preppy to dapper bespoke tailoring.

I am bringing this chapter of Masters of Style to an end with US-based Andy Poupart, who will need no introduction to many of you. Those who follow Andy on Instagram (link below) will know that he comes into the well-tailored rather than casual category as his focus is mainly on dapper bespoke tailoring. Andy and his equally stylish wife have been featured several times in The Rake and he is often in London where he is known to many of its bespoke tailors.

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

AP: My name is Andrew Poupart. I live in San Jose, California, and I am a software development manager.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

AP: I’ve been interested in clothes and style since I was very young. I always had a clear idea of how I would like to dress and I’ve collected inspiration and ideas since then.

GF: How would you describe your style?

AP: I’d like to think that I project a confident elegance. I prefer English style over Italian or American styles. But I enjoy experimenting with clothes, too, and I’m not afraid to wear color or looks that others might not.

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

AP: I wear tailored clothing for the most part, outside the house. Even when dressing casually, I will usually wear a shirt and jacket.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

AP: I don’t buy vintage. I find RTW trousers can fit me quite well. But almost all my clothing is tailored.

AP: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

GF: So many influences. One of the earliest that I recall was Robert Hardy’s character Siegfried Farnon in the late ‘70s BBC series All Creatures Great And Small. Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, William Powell in The Thin Man, Robert Redford’s character in Out Of Africa, and more. In real life there are many people who I admire, such as Peter Zottolo, Andreas Klow, Erik Mannby, and others. I also find quite a lot of inspiration in the Apparel Arts illustrations of Lawrence Fellows.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

AP: Favorite brands would tend to be accessories, such as H.N. White and Le Noeud Papillon for ties, Begg for scarves, Lavabre Cadet for gloves, Simonnot-Godard and Sera Fine Silk for pocket squares. Budd and Camessi for shirts, Longmire for cufflinks. Floris for cologne. Most of the shoes I wear are by Edward Green. Optimo Hats, in Chicago, for hats.

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

AP: I would probably say my ivory, double breasted dinner jacket. I worked with my tailor to create a jacket as close as we could make it to Humphrey Bogart’s dinner jacket in Casablanca.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

AP:  For sure. My tastes, I think, are constantly changing. Some elements are consistent, others change. For instance, I avoided three-button jackets for years, but I have recently commissioned suits with three button jackets.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

AP:  Curiosity, perhaps. I also think what looks good on me and, perhaps more importantly, what does or will not. Plus, I would say that I have the confidence to wear the clothes I want to wear.

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

AP:  I think it is important to understand fit. How clothes fit and what it means to have clothes that fit is very important. Buy and wear clothes that make you feel good about yourself, whatever that may mean, is crucial. For example, if you think that wearing a suit and tie is a chore and something to be endured, then you will project that discomfort. Conversely, if, like me, you love to wear a dinner jacket, then you will project confidence. Wear clothes that do that for you.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

AP: I’m on Instagram as @styleafter50

This is the last Masters of Style for a while. I plan to revive it at some point. If you wish to be featured or to suggest a suitable subject, please contact me.

Click here and scroll down for more Masters of Style

Masters of Style 14: Ahmed Sajeel @iam_sajeel

I've followed Islamabad-based Ahmed Sajeel on Instagram (link below) for some time and we have occasionally exchanged messages. From these contacts I can safely say that he is the archetypal gentleman: both polite and courteous as well as being beautifully dressed. 

Ahmed Sajeel @iam_sajeel

It's a privilege to bring you a glimpse of Ahmed Sajeel's diverse styles, from besuited to more casual:

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

AS: I am Ahmed Sajeel, based in Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan. My entire professional journey has pretty much been with the automotive industry, and I am the Regional Head for the North of Pakistan, for BMW operations.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

AS: For as far back as my memory serves me, I have been aesthetically inclined!

Ahmed Sajeel in summerweight suit

The first person I must have laid eyes on, was extremely handsome and debonair; my father. My mother met him toe to toe, as both of them were exceptionally elegant, eloquent and interested in leading full lives of kindness, beauty and style. And that went on till their twilight days. So a keen interest in all-encompassing style was only a natural outcome. 

From a very early age, my mother would encourage me to select my own clothes and in so develop my own taste, while building upon the aesthetic and philosophic foundations that they had already laid out. So while other children in the 80’s would be content with their jeans and sneakers, I would insist on putting on a tie and jacket, every time we would go out to socialize.

GF: How would you describe your style?

AS: Let us just say more old-world aristocracy / sportsmanship, than the modern boardroom.

Tailored clothing for me is an expression of self. I am a dreamer by disposition and always telling a story, or painting a picture with the day’s ensemble. One is deeply steeped in the classic menswear ideals, intertwined with less expected, personal nuances; and a strong affinity for themes and colours. For that, one draws from the nature itself, where colours, patterns and textures are strewn about in a nonchalant, fetching harmony.

The themes one alluded to, include but are not limited to nautical, hunting, cricket and other leisurely, gentlemanly pursuits, that subtly manifest themselves in ties, pocket squares, cufflinks and so on. It presents my all-encompassing outlook towards life at large; to LIVE life and revel in its beauty; and not to take clothing, myself or life too seriously.

Ahmed Sajeel in Fair Isle and cords

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

AS: I have a particular fondness for combining odd jackets and trousers in seasonal fabrics. Tweeds and flannels for fall and winter, after the British country gent, while linens, cottons and seersucker for the warmer months much in the Southern Italian or Southern American way. Thus hues and textures play a pivotal role. The attire would always be accompanied by a tie, or another suitable neckwear in less formal settings, such as a silk or wool scarf; and always with a pocket square that echoes the elements. Another idiosyncrasy involves insisting on French cuff shirt with cufflinks or cuff knots.

When the occasion does not call for wearing a suit / jacket and tie, one favours polo shirts in cotton pique, or button-down configuration and classic knitwear such as of cable-knit or Fair Isle variety. The informal clothing is complemented with trousers in cotton, linen, corduroy or denim, and often in colours that pick up the spirit of the season.

Clothes and shoes are predominantly bespoke and locally sourced through my trusted tailor of 22 years and shoe-maker of 15 years.

And whatever is less feasible as a bespoke article, such as ties, accessories and casual clothing; one can always and blindly trust Ralph Lauren to tie it all tastefully together.

Ahmed Sajeel in pinstripes

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

AS: Whatever can be tailored, one takes the bespoke route; for casualwear Ralph Lauren.

The objective of tailored clothing remains simple enough; every article is created to best compliment and complement, one’s form.

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life – past and present. 

AS: As I waxed lyrical earlier, my father was, and remains my primary inspiration. A very well read and travelled gentleman, he would always be elegant; and tirelessly meticulous about the fit of every article of clothing he owned. While suits and jackets would be in conservative shades, there would always be a flourish, expressed through the pattern and colour in his ties and pocket squares.

Beyond that, one is particularly influenced by golden era Hollywood, specifically Mr. Cary Grant and Mr. Fred Astaire, and Sir Sean Connery’s James Bond. While Mr. Michael Douglas is notorious for the “Wall Street” wardrobe, his minimalist and immaculately tailored and carried wardrobe in “A Perfect Murder”, deserves honourable mention.

Amongst real-life style heroes, Mr. Gianni Agnelli, Mr. Luca DiMontezemolo, Mr. Luciano Barbera, Mr. G. Bruce Boyer as well as Mr. Mark Cho, Mr. Wei Koh and Mr. Luca Rubinacci cover many a spectrums of influences.

In a nutshell though, one completely identifies with Mr. Ralph Lauren’s imagery of style, and how it has remained so fresh and relevant over the decades. So achingly beautifully!

Relaxed in knitwear and cords

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

AS: Having wafted through many well-respected style houses, one has settled down with most all things Ralph Lauren. It’s a place where one can find everything from Rick’s Cream, Shawl-collared dinner jacket to the perfect Fair Isle sweater à la Mr. David Evans.

GF: Thank you; yes, I do love a Fair Isle! What is/are your favourite individual items of clothing?

AS: Jackets and suits. Tweeds for their rustic interplay of hues and textures, flannels for their luscious hand, linen for its textures and rakish coarseness and seersucker for its effortless charm.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

AS: One’s style evolution is very much a reflection of one’s own journey as an individual. A lived in disposition … time, stories and finding and absorbing emotion every step of the way.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

AS: If I could be so vain as to credit myself with one stylistic skill; it would be an eye for creating visual balance in putting together an ensemble through thematic and colour-driven harmony.

And relishing dressing up every single day … purely for the joy it imparts to my person.

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

AS: Have a good time with what you decide to wear. That of course does not mean that one can sacrifice elegance at the altar of perceived comfort. Athleisure is best suited to what the name itself suggests. If anything, the relaxed fit seems to have an opposite effect of what most patrons expect to achieve. Therefore bespoke clothing is the simplest answer, as it ensures comfort through being uniquely created for one’s body and in so flatters the form.

While it is oft said that dressing well is a display of respect for those around us, to me it is as much a matter of self-respect. To quote Oscar Wilde from The Picture of Dorian Grey, “It is only shallow people who do not judge by appearances. The true mystery of the world is the visible, not the invisible”.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media

AS: Instagram: iam_sajeel  Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ahmed.sajeel

GF: Thank you, Sajeel, so much for this brilliant exposition of your style journey. I particularly agree with your drawing inspiration from nature and with your comment on not taking things too seriously!

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Masters of Style 12: Shaun Gordon

I've known Shaun Gordon since the early days of this blog and have no hesitation as describing him as one of the most naturally stylish men I know. Many followers of this blog have bought his beautifully made ties and while, at the time of writing, he's closing that business, I know that Shaun will be back soon with another venture that makes full use of his creativity and style.

Shaun Gordon image 1 (credits below)

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

SG: My name is Shaun Gordon, I am a London based multi-product menswear designer who currently handcraft neckties and fine accessories.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

SG: I think the pinnacle point for me was when I stopped caring what people thought and decided to dress in a way which I thought would look respectable and make me feel great. At the time I was watching old golden era Hollywood films and I adored the elegance of men’s clothing and style. Then my thoughts got carried away with the inspiration of dressing in this manner. I sold all my casual clothes on eBay and used the cash to hunt for vintage clothes I could wear.

GF: How would you describe your style?

SG: Let’s see, a modern timeless sartorial approach with a vintage edge.

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

SG: I enjoy wearing tailored clothing, which for me consist of a fedora hat, shirt (relaxed or formal), tie and penny loafers or shoes. I found most of my early clothes in Portobello Market and various places in the Shoreditch area. As time went on, I purchased from renowned brands such as Ralph Lauren, Richard James, Hackett, Ozwald Boteng to name a few. So these days my style is a balanced mixture of vintage and modern clothing.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

SG: Earlier on in my style journey it was predominantly vintage, however now I buy whatever catches my eye and feel that will complement my current wardrobe. I do have a secret wish list that I must have and will complete my aesthetic jig-saw puzzle.

 

Shaun Gordon image 2 (credits below)

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

SG: My Grandfather will always be the foundation of my style, it’s the philosophy of dressing well always as you never know who you could meet and now I have grown to believe it to be fundamentally about self respect. I am inspired by many things and to name a few; Sidney Poitier for the way he wore his clothes that reflected his personality and it shone through in the films. Early Miles Davis, although I appreciate the way his style transitioned through time and was in sync with his music. David Hockney, I love the way he uses colour within the subject’s style. Another artist who’s a personal favourite is Jack Vettriano; its beautiful to see the way he paints the drape of clothing. Cary Grant, the beautiful form of tailoring worn with that classical gentleman’s panache… there’s seriously too many to name.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

SG: The brands which I appreciate are: J. P Hackett No.14, Ralph Lauren, Richard James, Edward Sexton, Eton, Turnbull & Asser, Adret, Borsalino, Lock & Co, Tom Smarte, Hat of Cain, Drakes, 282 Portobello, Crockett & Jones, Smythson, Joseph Cheaney, Mulberry, Cambridge Satchel, Churchs, Rolex, Omega, Seiko, Fears watches and probably too many I’ve missed (apologies in advance!).

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

SG: My navy Borsalino rabbit fur fedora which goes with pretty much everything and has grown softer over the years as I have worn it. My Shaun Gordon Ivan striped tie, which consist of navy, turquoise and yellow stripe. My navy linen SB suit and green linen SB blazer by Richard James. My 1954 Omega Seamaster watch – I love vintage watches! My chocolate brown Crockett and Jones penny loafers.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

SG: I am unsure if developing is the right word, perhaps evolving in a sense that as our perspective and needs changes, we experience and appreciate clothes in a different way. And I think it is a beautiful explorational journey. My style has developed from being strictly vintage, which tends to be sharp tailored pieces to becoming more modern with a refined and softer silhouette.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

SG: A sincere curiosity (if you can call that a skill at all) and actually wearing the clothes I had in mind. Not just looking. Once you’ve learnt what there is to know, you have to take the plunge and try things out, otherwise how will you know if it suits you? Not just in how it appears but how it makes you feel because it will inevitably affect the appearance anyway. Also, as a menswear designer I have developed a sharp eye for detail and I believe this is a skill that has helped me in my search for style.

Shaun Gordon 3 (image credits below)

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

SG: In terms of the well-dressed approach: to summarise, I would say to build the foundational wardrobe first such as your navy or black suit, white shirt and tonal coloured tie. Think classic before venturing into the wonderful world of texture and colour. With this make sure the fit is correct. What I mean by this is to aim for a ‘tailored’ fit as opposed to anything too fitted or loose. Learn everything about what would work with your stature - this will aid your selection choice of fit, cloth pattern and details, which will help you create the complementary look you want. Most importantly, have fun with it and be patience. It takes time to develop your own personal style because it is just as much as learning about yourself.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

SG: The various social media accounts I can be found are:
Instagram: @shaungordonstyle
Pinterest: @shaungordon
Shaun Gordon ties: www.shaungordon.co.uk (Note that at the time of writing, Shaun Gordon is closing his tie-making business and is selling his stock as generous reductions - buy now before it's too late).

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Image credits and clothing information:

Shaun Gordon 01:
Photographer: RKZUK - Rikesh Chauhan
Hat: 282 Portobello
Shirt: Turnbull and Asser
Tie: Shaun Gordon
Jacket: Paul Smith

Shaun Gordon 02:
Photographer: Gahli Richardson
Hat: Tom Smarte
Shirt: Alder and Green
Tie: Shaun Gordon
Suit: Turnbull and Asser

Shaun Gordon 03:
Photographer: The Exiled Brit
Hat: Borsalino
Shirt: Turnbull and Asser
Tie: Shaun Gordon
Suit: Turnbull and Asser

Masters of Style 11: Svante Nybyggars and Friends

Masters of Style is taking a slightly different direction this week as I wanted to show an image that Svante Nybyggars (featured here on Masters of Style) sent to me showing him with two other stylish people who also have Instagram presences. The image was shot in Sweden by Mats Andersson.

To the left: Maria Sörensson aka @aginginstyle
To the right: Ingemar Albertsson aka @vintagemannen

Centre: Svante Nybyggars aka @theurbanhippieswe

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Masters of Style 10: Patrick Hall @therevdmr

Patrick Hall's Instagram account (link below) leapt out at me as he wears beautifully tailored suits, many vintage, in what seems to me to be a particularly American way. Not just US sack suits here, but also well-cut tailoring with soft shoulders, vibrant colours and checks, jackets with the top button on the roll of the lapel, spearpoint shirt collars (either button-down or worn with a tie bar) and buckskin shoes. 

Patrick Hall appears to be totally relaxed in his suits. If you are hesitating to dust off your suits post-covid, take a look at how comfortable he looks and you won't see the suit as a totally formal garment again. I asked him to tell us more about his style:

Patrick Hall @therevdmr

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

PH: My name is Patrick Hall. I live in Houston, TX, where I work as an Episcopal (Anglican) priest. I am the rector of Epiphany Church, a small parish in southwest Houston.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

PH: When I was a child, I was a ring-bearer in a wedding. I wore hired morning dress – a tailcoat and striped trousers, with a starched collar and cravat. I remember feeling elegant, solemn, and like a proper adult. I didn’t want to change after the reception concluded!

Patrick Hall @therevdmr

GF: How would you describe your style?

PH: I dress as formally as I can get away with, in an American culture where informality has become its own religious fundamentalism.

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

PH: I wear tailored clothes that run the gamut from rustic to smart. They were all procured via the Internet, or ordered directly from tailors.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

PH: My year-round suits are evenly split between 1930s/40s vintage and bespoke orders. Sport coats are off-the-rack items of recent manufacture. All my odd trousers are also ready-to-wear. This is because my sport coats and odd trousers take more abuse. I wear them to travel, and on weekends when I am more active and outside. As a result, I am reticent to pay bespoke prices for them. These items are eventually ruined by the rigors of wear and the caprice of fate. I am also unwilling to pay bespoke prices for seasonal suits, because they are inherently less versatile, and summer suits are subject to ruinous stains due to their lighter hues. I can’t abide being out four or five figures on account of grass stains or a stubborn coffee spill.

Patrick Hall

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

PH: I came to faith as a white child at a Black Episcopal (Anglican) church here in Houston. In the United States, Black men are some of the last people keeping the aesthetic language of tailored clothes alive. I was impressed in my youth by the elegance of these men, many of whom were doctors, lawyers, bankers, and architects – they were erudite well-educated professionals with exquisite taste. Also, Anglican prayer-book worship inculcates a certain reverence towards public space, its order, and aesthetic possibilities.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

PH: My bespoke suits are made by Steed, a west-end tailor who cut a drape coat, and are well known among the Internet menswear crowd, and a local tailor named Alberto Lazcano. My off-the-rack items are mostly made by Ring Jacket, Spier & Mackay, and Cavour. I have several vintage Brooks Brothers sack coats as well, and I love them dearly.

@theevdmr

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

PH: A three-piece suit, with notch lapels, a six-button double-breasted waistcoat cut very high after the fashion of the 1930s, finished with high-waisted full trousers with deep pleats, cut from a sixteen-ounce worsted wool. Alternatively, a soft-shouldered three button tweed sack coat with patch pockets and a center vent.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

PH: At this point, I think I have arrived at what feels like me. I’m sure my style WILL evolve with time, but we are past the point in my journey where that evolution will be a consciously directed one.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

PH: Some obsessive-compulsive tendencies.

Patrick Hall

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

PH: Think of style as a language. What each item of clothing “says,” matters less than whether, at any given moment, all the clothes you are wearing are saying the same thing at the same time. Be honest with yourself about what fits your body. Be honest with yourself about what you have the courage to wear. If an item in your closet causes you difficulty, give it away. Hone in on what feels easy to wear for you. Once you’ve identified it, work out from there.

GF: Many thanks for your unique perspective on style. Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

PH: My Instagram is @therevdmr. All my other socials are more church-oriented, and less likely to be of interest to Grey Fox readers.

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Masters of Style 9: Nick Johannessen @welldresseddad

Nick Johannessen is well know on Instagram as @welldresseddad and for his style-related podcasts at Garmology. I had the pleasure of meeting Nick a few years ago when he visited the UK from his home in Norway and have had the  privilege of being a guest on Garmology (links below).

1: Nick Johannessen of @welldresseddad & Garmology Podcast (+ Pixie the corgi)

Nick's unique approach to personal style (he tries to define it for us below) is an inspiration for those who wish to break out from the herd and show some individualism in how they dress. He also cares a lot about the damage that fashion does to our environment and writes powerfully in support of sustainable style. His carefully considered answers to my interview questions below are typical of the cerebral sartorialist that he is.

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

NJ: I’m Nick Johannessen, I live in Tønsberg, just south of Oslo in Norway, the oldest town in Norway and a Viking seat of olden times. By trade, I’m a civil engineer. In my spare time, I write a blog, Instagram and create the Garmology podcast. I’m a keen reader, occasionally make or modify my own clothes, have restored and maintained vintage Jaguars and have been in charge of a website for old Jags for almost 30 years.

I very much enjoy seeking out the stories behind things, or people, and sharing my findings with others. Hence why I started the blog 9 years ago and then pivoted into podcasting 2 years ago.

Image 2: clothing details below

GF: How has your relationship with clothes and style changed over time?

NJ: Clothes have seen three phases in my life, at least. As a teenager clothes were important as a tribal identifier of sorts, you were either one of the well-off society kids, maybe a sports kid, or one of the freaks, the outsiders. I was in the latter group, keenly interested in collecting music, creating a local radio show, and flying RC model aircraft. 

My teenage years were spent in Tromsø, a good bit past the Arctic Circle in Norway. While the largest town in the top half of Norway, there were still only around 40.000 people living there, with all the big city lights that a small town brings with it. So fashion-wise we were far from up to date! We’d read the magazines like The Face and the NME but would have to travel to Oslo or London to find the hot stuff, and travel was expensive back then. Even a pair of Dr Martens could be the cause of envy. Basically, it would be one pair of good jeans a year, one jacket and a pair of Nike basketball shoes.

I stumbled into family life at a young age, so missed out on much of the second phase of personal style development, painful as it is to word it like this. Having four kids, hectic jobs, moving around, clothes were something that got very little attention, beyond the most basic needs.

Image 3: details below

Clothes slowly became more of an interest in 2009 when I restarted my life. Some may call it a mid-life crisis, I prefer to think of it as taking stock and charting a new course. Whichever way, it was an opportunity to look at interests that previously had had to take a back seat. I had long been into vintage Jaguars, an interest that is closely aligned with traditional British clothing.

I have strong memories from my childhood of thick tweed and waxed jackets, which later on became something I went looking for. The visual and tactile memory never quite matched up though until I found an old Harris Tweed jacket in a charity shop. Suddenly the look and the heft was there, which informed my direction in that respect.

The second mission was to find a proper waxed jacket. This is actually harder today than it used to be, as whereas waxed jackets used to be more of a standard item with few variations, nowadays there are endless variations and mostly to a lower quality than 20 years ago. Luckily there is an almost infinite number of old jackets for sale, and mostly in good condition and fairly priced. As long as they don’t smell too awful, it’s mostly a case of a rewax and minor repairs to bring an old jacket back to vigour!

Image 4: details below

GF: How would you describe your style?

NJ: I think in all honesty it’s a bit of this and a bit of that, not really adhering to any clear style or subcultural checklist. A bit of tweed, a bit of country, some vintage and army surplus, good leather footwear and Japanese denim. The fun for me lies in mixing it up. Japanese magazines would likely label some of it as “rugged”, which is less down to me being a particularly macho guy, but more to do with the “heavy-duty” and longevity of the clothes.

A big part of my wardrobe though is that almost everything in it has a compelling story in one way or another. While I quite rarely bump into anyone that is remotely interested in the stories, I take great pleasure in them. It could be down to how something is made, who made it, how I came across it, or just some arcane historical minutiae that sparks interest.

Image 5: details below

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

NJ: Norway is not a great place to shop for the clothes I am most interested in, so mostly I find stuff online, or when I’m travelling. Or from trawling the charity shops and jumble sales for interesting finds! For the most part, though, it’s looking around online, at the typical auction sits, sales sections in forums, the retailers, both secondhand and new and the more recent reseller-sites where people sell their unrequired clothes. 

Online is dangerous though, as it’s very much easier to buy stuff than when you’re physically able to inspect it and try it on, and then have to pony up the readies!GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

NJ: Most of what I own is definitely off the rack, though also mainly secondhand, as my tastes are more expensive than my wallet allows. In principle, I love the idea of vintage garments, but it’s really difficult to find pieces that I like and that fit me. A lot of what is available, i.e. what has survived time, is small in size and doesn’t fit. There is also the problem of finding actual interesting vintage, as much of what is sold as “vintage” is merely quite recent secondhand stuff.

I would very much like to test the water in tailoring, as it would be a unique chance to have something that really fits me well. Being of the “little teapot” configuration (i.e. short and stout) does have its disadvantages when it comes to standard sizing!

Image 6: details below

GF: What are the main style influences in your life - past and present? 

NJ: This is one of the hardest questions to answer, as experience has shown that most people tend to view their style as unique. I’m really not sure where my own inspiration comes from, though most likely it’s visual cues from sources like social media and TV. Some tv-series and films have incredible costume departments that produce very intriguing, and artfully aged clothing! Much of it comes down to textures, fabrics, stories and well, engineering and craft.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

NJ: I’m not spoilt for choice when it comes to local shops, there are very few that hold any interest in Norway at all.

When it comes to brands there are a few I follow and engage with, mainly smaller ones, with a more craft orientated approach. Brands like LaneFortyFive and English Utopia are leading the way in making clothes to order at fair prices. Brands like Mister Freedom create playful and interesting recreations of a past that might have been. 1st Pat-rn from Italy makes a range of high quality and interesting garments that work well with other styles.

Image 8: details below

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

NJ: Believe it or not, this is a really really difficult question to answer! The really complete reply would be like the Oscars results, with nominees, runners ups and winners in an array of categories. I’d even have to distinguish between actual clothes I wear and clothes that are more collectable in nature. Some of my favourite garments are things I seldom wear but find pleasure in owning and handling, more as artefacts than clothing.

Favourite piece of outerwear: The Mister Freedom “Mulholland Master” (a take on the classic motorcycle jacket, but astonishingly well made)

Favourite tweed coat: The Follifoot in Donegal tweed from Cordings (wonderful tweed and an incredibly versatile coat)

Favourite shoes: The “Coupen” boots by Rolling Dub Trio (the shape and quality is sublime)

Favourite winter boots: The “Ice Cutters” by Red Wing (don’t look good, but last forever)

Favourite waistcoat: The “Ranger” by 1st Pat-rn (great fabric and design with versatile uses)

The list could really be almost endless.

Image 9: details below

GF: A great answer, Nick - I always like to see Cordings in a list of favourites. It's a store that has been around for decades but is a hidden gem for the sartorially inclined - but back to the questions: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

NJ: I think that I’ve become better at seeing what will work with what I have and what might take things in an interesting new direction, and really what sort of looks work for me. In all honesty, I have slowed down a bit when compared to the initial euphoria from 12 years ago. As time has passed I have become more discerning, a little wiser, and a lot less willing to buy something just to hold it. Once you know yourself better, it becomes less about trying new directions, and more about developing what feels right.

GF: I certainly echo that, Nick. What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for good clothes and style?

NJ: I’d like to say my engineering background has some influence on this, but I think it’s probably more thanks to my curious and nerdy nature. By learning some sewing skills and picking up knowledge from those that know more than me, I have enough insight into the making of clothes and fabrics to see what is good and what is not worth buying.

Style is a trickier one, as who really knows what is “good” style? To my mind, it comes down to a matter of having some confidence in your own judgement and a degree of curiosity and playfulness. Choosing to share your efforts with the world via social media is another matter altogether and one I would warn against.

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

NJ: Look around and see what you like, see if something similar works for you. Do some research into the sort of things you are interested in, so as to have more of an idea of what is actually good and worth your investment. Go places where you can actually try things on, as this makes for more educated purchases than ordering online. Don’t be afraid to go secondhand, you get a lot better value for money and there is a lot to be found.

Remember: At the end of the day you are dressing for your own pleasure, while we may think everyone is keenly judging us, the reality is that most people hardly notice (this is a reason to stay off social media, avoid the judgement of strangers). Have your own rules and don’t feel you need to follow a set code, though listen to your partner, they will often have your best interest at heart!

GF: Many thanks, Nick for the thought-provoking discussion. Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

NJ: On Instagram as @welldresseddad on the web at welldresseddad.com and on all podcast services as Garmology (and his interview of me).

Click here and scroll down for more Masters of Style on Grey Fox Blog.

Photo and outfit details:
1: 1st Pat-Rn jacket and vest, Oni Jeans, Lennertson shoes and Pixie the Corgie!
2: Maharishi Harris Tweed jacket, self made waistcaot, Engineered Garments Oslo pants
3: Mister Freedom Pea Coat, Work and War beanie, Oni denim jeans, Rolling Dub Trio boots
4: Tom Smarte hat, Cordings Follifoot coat, Hansen Garments trouser, Trickers boots, SEH Kelly gloves, Mister Freedom waistcoat
5: English Utopia waxed jacket, Nigel Cabourn Harris Tweed vest, William Lennon boots, Tusting bag.
6: Gloverall summer duffle, Peregrine sweater, Bucktrout Harris Tweed trousers, Red Wing boots
7: Nigel Cabourn Mallory jacket, Haar Distiller pants, self made waistcoat (repurposed Laura Ashley skirt!)
8: Left: Vintage Belstaff Trialmaster, grannymade fisherman's sweater, Oni jeans. Right: Vintage Swedish army parka, self made waistcoat from upcycled army fatigues, Hansen Garment trousers.
9: Vintage Barbour Border, Stanley Biggs sweater, Hansen Garments trousers, Trickers shoes, Curzon waxed hat.