Military Wristwatches - Collecting Vintage Style

[Note: My apologies that I haven't posted for some weeks. security issues with the blog have  taken some time to sort out. I hope you enjoy this feature on collecting old military watches].

How many men do you know who are obsessed by collecting something? It may be cars, watches, clothes, cameras, books, golf clubs, rare birds, works of art or racing bikes. We're no doubt reflecting some ancient instinct which had us accumulating weapons, vital tools or whatever was required for our survival.

British military watches from the forties to sixties - collectible style

One item that a man of style might collect is watches. A watch says much about its owner - just as a what we wear reflects our tastes and personality. For those who like to focus their collecting impulses, I'd suggest looking for vintage military timepieces.

The last few years have seen a move towards smaller watches of plainer design. To many this is a welcome move away from the growth in watch sizes throughout the 90s and 00s when some watches soared to approaching 50mm in diameter. 

In the early to middle years of the last century a man's watch could measure anything from around 28mm in diameter; a watch of 36mm plus would have been relatively large. While 40mm is now considered average, watch companies are gradually reducing the size of men's watches again in response to the growth of the Asian market (where wrists are smaller), the popularity of men's watches for women and the increasing interest in smaller vintage watches. Small is becoming more sophisticated. 

What better than vintage military watches to fill this niche and to appeal to man's collecting instincts? They are around 34mm to 36mm in diameter, but stand out on the wrist because they were designed to be highly legible. The watches in these pictures were made for the British military between the forties and sixties, a vibrant period of military watchmaking, before electronics brought us rather soulless quartz watches. They are robustly designed with movements which are beautifully made and generally easy to maintain.

Five vintage military watches and a more recent military-inspired Seiko

Many can be bought from around £1000 to £2000 currently (some types for even less), though collectible ones like the Omega 53 or Mk11 navigators' watches made by Jaeger LeCoultre and IWC for astro-navigation can cost many times that. One watch to look out for is a watch made in England by Smiths for the British Army - the 'Smiths W10'. Smiths watches represent the end of a longstanding tradition of British watchmaking and the W10 can be bought for a reasonable figure as it isn't particularly rare. To be able to wear a watch made entirely in the UK - movement, case, dial and hands, is now unusual, although Bremont are slowly reviving British watchmaking.

Military watches should hold their value and in many cases appreciate. Watch prices are in a bit of a limbo at present as the cost of living soars, but in the long term such watches will, I'm sure, prove sound investments.

Inevitably, buying vintage military watches is a minefield - a lot of fakes are sold on eBay and even on watch fora and by dealers - get good advice before you take the plunge. Google 'Military Watches' and get to know the dealers, join a good military watch forum online and read and learn. The watches will need looking after, a service will be necessary every few years to keep the movement in top condition. The costs of this will soon eat into any investment value, but overall a well-chosen watch will give you years of pleasure and represent a fair investment.

[This feature is an update of a piece I posted in February 2012].  

Rotary x Protate Cancer UK '1IN4' Wristwatch

I had no idea until very recently that 1 in 4 black men will be diagnosed with prostate cancer during their lifetime, and more than 11,500 men die from prostate cancer in the UK each year – that's one man every 45 minutes!

The handsome new Rotary 1IN4 x Prostate Cancer UK watch 

To highlight these shocking statistics I am wearing the new Limited Edition 1IN4 watch that @Rotarywatches has designed in collaboration with Property Expert and TV presenter, @KunleBarker. The 1IN4 aims to increase awareness of prostate cancer and its increased risk amongst black men. There will only be 1000 timepieces available.

The Rotary x Prostate Cancer '1IN4' Wristwatch

Rotary will donate 10% + VAT from the sale of every 1IN4 watch to @ProstateCancerUK (Instagram tag) @ProstateUK (twitter tag) which will go towards helping more black men understand their prostate cancer risk and what they can do about it.

The Limited Edition 1IN4 timepiece is only available at rotarywatches.com and @fhindsjewellers nationwide.

*The featured Limited Edition 1IN4 watch has been gifted by @Rotarywatches. All donations will be made on behalf of the recipients by @Rotarywatches for all gifted Limited Edition 1IN4 timepieces*

#1in4watch #rotaryxprostatecanceruk #prostatecancer #onemanevery45minutes #menwearewithyou #ad

Bell & Ross BR V2-92: A Practical and Versatile Watch

I always enjoy trying a watch brand I haven't worn before. I've known and admired Bell & Ross's timepieces from afar so was pleased to borrow one of their Vintage Collection to try for a few days.  

The Bell & Ross V2-92 Aéronavale watch

Bell & Ross were founded in 1992 to make robust watches for professionals such as pilots, divers and military personnel. They became known for their square watches, based on aeroplane cockpit instrumentation. They have supplied the French Air Force and motor racing teams as well, of course, as the man and women in the street. They make their watches in Switzerland.

I tried the Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Aéronavale, a 41mm automatic mechanical watch with a beautiful deep blue sunray dial, a bi-directional rotating bezel, 100m water resistance, screw-down crown and transparent case back giving a view of the movement. It has a distinct vintage pilot's watch vibe and has a real presence on the wrist, especially on the matching deep blue calfskin strap (it also comes of a steel bracelet).

The clean looks give the watch a contemporary feel and, while the Sellita-based movement has no claims to being chronograph tested, it kept extremely good time for the few days I wore it. At £2700 on the leather strap, this is a fair-priced watch which will fit well into the stylish person's wardrobe as it goes well with jeans and knitwear or a suit and tie. An all-round practical and yet very handsome watch.

See Bell & Ross.

The Barn by Chrono24: A Pre-Owned Watch Partnership

Buying secondhand and vintage watches can be daunting. Most dealers offer a short warranty, but very few have inspected and, where necessary, serviced and repaired a watch before sale. The watch seller that does is The Barn by Chrono24 (previously Xupes) where watches can be confidently bought and sold online. 

The Barn by Chrono24 in Bishop's Stortford north of London

The Barn by Chrono24

Most importantly for watch buyers, the business will work alongside The Watch Atelier where watches are serviced and repaired by award-winning watchmakers.

I was shown around the grade II listed barn which houses The Barn by Chrono24 and met founder Joe McKenzie who sees the Barn as providing a comfortable experience to customers and staff alike in Soho House Group furnished surroundings just outside London. Here watches can be examined in comfort before purchase (or taken to be sold) and the impressive workshop can be seen through large viewing windows.

Meeting Richard West and Megan Young, Watchmakers of the Year

I was introduced to watchmakers Megan Young and Richard West, WatchPro Watchmakers of the Year 2022. They run an impressively equipped state-of-the-art workshop in which timepieces are checked for sale and any necessary repairs and restoration undertaken. The Watch Atelier offers these services to all - you don't have to have bought your watch through Chrono24 - and they offer a 24 month warranty on all such work.

I was very impressed by what I saw and heard of The Barn by Chrono24 and, importantly, would feel totally confident in buying (or selling) a watch, or having one serviced or repaired there.

The Barn by Chrono24

The Watch Atelier

If Xupes and The Barn look familiar to you, you may have seen it featured on Channel 4's Second-Hand For Fifty Grand which looks at the market for pre-owned luxury items such as watches and handbags.

This is an unsponsored feature.

Tudor Ranger: A Classic Tool Watch

Watches come in broadly two types; the tool watch, robust and practical, with looks a secondary consideration to practicality, and dress watches, where robustness is secondary to appearance and decoration. The new Tudor Ranger comes into the first category and its credentials are supported by its heritage and origins as an adventurer's timepiece.

The new Tudor Ranger

Seventy years ago, in July 1952, The British North Greenland Expedition (BNGE) left the Thames to explore Greenland and carry out important scientific experiments, some of which are still providing scientists with data today. Tudor, the more affordable arm of Rolex, had recently released the Tudor Oyster-Prince and they arranged for thirty of these watches to accompany the expedition with members using them daily and keeping detailed records of their performance.

The results were everything Tudor had hoped for, the watches proving robust and accurate in hostile conditions, useful information in their marketing of the watch (see below). Certainly my 1955 Oyster-Prince (pictured below) keeps remarkable time and performs well as a daily wear, despite no recent service history.

A few years ago Tudor discovered that one of the expedition watches had survived, owned by Major Desmond Homard who had dug it out of the back of a kitchen drawer. There's a belief that this is the only remaining expedition watch, but in researching this feature I spoke to a collector who, for a while, owned a watch used by another expedition member, Herbert 'Dixie' Dean. This watch had a sound provenance and came from a family member (both watches are pictured below).

Major Desmond Homard's watch, worn on the BNGE

Advertising the Tudor Oyster-Prince

Another BNGE watch owned by Herbert 'Dixie' Dean (left: image Martyn West @mwvintagewatches) and my own Tudor Oyster-Prince from the mid-fifties (right)

In releasing the new Tudor Ranger Tudor has chosen not to market a watch based on the original expedition Oyster-Prince, but to revive the Tudor Ranger, a similarly robust watch with an Explorer dial first seen in the sixties. At 34mm in diameter, it was smaller than its 39mm replacement, but the new watch captures the original proportions well, making a handsome and very wearable watch (images below).

The new Tudor Ranger, priced very reasonably from £2170 to £2420 for a manufacturer made, chronometer-rated movement. See Tudor Watch.

Original Tudor Ranger (left) and the new model (39mm, right)

Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute: A Watch With a Story

It's the stories behind some wristwatches that draws enthusiasts. While I no longer collect watches with any great seriousness, it was the sixties Omega Speedmaster Professional, the watch that was worn on the Moon, that started my love for timepieces with history. But there was a Swiss watch, recently revived by Breitling, that was worn in space before the Omega.

Scott Carpenter's Breitling Navitimer (left) and the new Limited Edition (right)

Breitling is a watch brand I've never owned, but have long admired from afar. They have revived the gorgeous old Navitimer Cosmonaute to mark the 60th anniversary of its journey aboard the Aurora 7 spacecraft on the wrist of astronaut Scott Carpenter. The classic Navitimer was designed as a pilot's watch, with its inbuilt calculator, useful in the days long before on-board computers and navigation systems, so it was bound to appeal to an astronaut with a pilot's training. 

New and old (Carpenter's damaged watch centre) Breitling Navimtimer Cosmonaute

Breitling have described it as 'the first Swiss watch in space' - with the emphasis on the word 'Swiss'. Yuri Gagarin is reputed to have worn a Soviet timepiece on his first trip into orbit in April 1961, so the Breitling wasn't the first wristwatch in space. US astronaut Alan Shepard followed Gagarin a few weeks later (he's believed not to have worn a watch). John Glenn travelled into orbit in February 1962 wearing a Heuer stopwatch (not strictly a wristwatch) strapped to his wrist. 

Scott Carpenter was launched on his Aurora 7 spacecraft on 24th May 1962 wearing, as claimed, the first Swiss wristwatch into orbit. He had requested the Breitling with a 24 hour bezel to replace the standard 12 hour bezel on the Navitimer. 

Scott Carpenter wears his Breitling Navitimer

Carpenter's watch was was damaged by seawater after splashdown, but it still exists, corroded and unrestored, as a memento to this remarkable journey (see the pictures above). The new Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute is a homage to the original, but subtly updated with a platinum bezel and an open sapphire crystal caseback, engraved with the date of Carpenter’s mission “ONE OF 362” (the number of orbits on the flight and the number of watches available in this limited edition).

The new Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute is available on either a black alligator leather strap or a seven-row stainless-steel bracelet. Price: £8,700 on steel-bracelet and £8,400 on black alligator strap.

The Limited Edition Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute

Bremont x Bamford Watch Company - Another British Watch Collaboration

Two British watch collaborations within one week is a rare event and symptomatic of the steady revival of the once-great British watch industry. Coinciding with the launch of the Fears-Garrick watch (featured here) comes a timepiece from Bremont and Bamford Watch Department - the Bremont Bamford S500 Special Edition.

The Bremont x Bamford WD S500 on my wrist at the launch

Launched in a cloud of tongue in cheek secrecy with a nicely edited spy thriller-style video and graphics, the S500 is limited to 250 pieces. This (like the Fears-Garrick watch) is a collaboration arising from a long friendship between two British brands. 

Rivalry has no place in British watchmaking and it's good to see brands combining creative skills to produce watches which, like the S500, benefit from the fusion of design ideas and brand characteristics. In this case the creative skills of Bamford Watch Department give a very contemporary edge to the Bremont tool watch robustness.

Bremont x Bamford Watch Department S500 watch

The S500 sports bright blue indices which jump out against the dark black layered dial and the 43mm diver's watch case, making this a practical yet stylish timepiece. The movement is chronometer rated, with enhanced shock-proofing and the DLC-treated case is water resistant to 50ATM or 500m. On the wrist it's comfortable with not too much bulk. This is a watch that will be noticed and commented on favourably when you have one sitting on your wrist.

The watch is priced at £3995.

Bremont Watches

Bamford Watch Company

Fears and Garrick Collaborate on a New British Watch

British watch companies, Fears and Garrick, have collaborated to produce a new watch, launched today. I've known David Brailsford of Garrick and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill for some years and both are united in their passion for making high quality watches and for developing British brands. They have known each other and supported each other's efforts as they grew their brands, so a collaboration was perhaps inevitable.

The resulting Fears - Garrick watch is 42mm in diameter, made at Garrick's workshop in the UK and only available through Fears. It uses the Garrick UT-G04 movement with power reserve indicator. This is hand  wound and regulated to within 5 seconds a day. The hands are the usual Fears skeleton design and the watch marries the key elements of both watch brands very well. 

I haven't yet seen the watch in the flesh, but my experience of both brand's watches is that photographs never do them justice and I'm sure that the dial, with its paper-like matte finish, will look superb against the indices and beautifully finished case.

David Brailsford & Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. The project started over a cuppa in Costa

The piece isn't a limited edition, but only 10-15 pieces can be made each year. Priced at £19,500 inc.VAT. 

Links:

Fears Watch Company

Garrick Watchmakers

Michlmayr: Wristwatch Repair and Servicing

I recently had one of my watches serviced (at no charge to me, see note below*) by Norwich-based watchmakers, Michlmayr. My wristwatch collection is smaller than it used to be, but I like to ensure that they are kept well maintained. 

Servicing and repairing a mechanical watch (or a clock) is a cost that needs to be factored into watch ownership, but is an expense only required perhaps every 5-10 years and, if done regularly, maintains the value of the timepiece while keeping it running as accurately as when new.

My early 90s Tudor 'Big Block' chronograph beautifully serviced by Michlmayr

Michlmayer was established in 1986 and now has a team of qualified and experienced watch and clockmakers providing services to private clients, to the public sector and cathedrals and churches repairing, servicing and restoring wristwatches and clocks. They kindly offered to service one of my watches and I selected a Tudor 'Big Block' 79170 chronograph dating from the early 90s which, while it was running well, was due a clean and a lube.

I suspect that many owners have little idea of the wonders that lie inside their mechanical watches. The Tudor has a workhorse Valjoux 7750 movement with little decoration but a truly utilitarian beauty. I'm grateful to Michlmayr for taking the following images for me. It's when you see the complexity of these movements that you begin to understand the skills, expertise and the cost of servicing. What the images don't show is just how small some of the parts are - yet an experienced watchmaker handles the tiny components with remarkable confidence and dexterity.

Michlmayr have done a superb job. I asked them not to polish the case (which they will do if required) as I prefer it to be kept as original as possible. The watch was returned to me running well within 5 seconds a day (and this isn't a chronometer movement). A bent secondhand was replaced with a Tudor replacement and the watch looks superb, now acting as my daily wearer.

Finding a reliable watchmaker can be hard, but I'm pleased to recommend Michlmayr highly on the basis of this experience. To find out about their watch and clock services or to book a service go to Michlmayr

*Note: At my request Michlmayr serviced my watch without charge and I agreed to objectively review their services here on my blog.

My Tudor 'Big Block' chronograph 79170 before the service

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 Wristwatch

Although I've never owned an Oris watch I've featured a few over the years here on the blog. They are well-designed, not unreasonably priced and rather individual watches. The new Oris Big Crown Pointer Date, the latest in a series which has been going since 1938, is a particularly handsome watch.

The new Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

It ticks several boxes for me. At 38mm it's the perfect size - comfortable to wear and avoiding that slight clumsiness that some watches acquire if more than about 42mm in diameter. I also love a large crown (that's the winder on the side of the watch) and a plain, military-style, legible dial is a further bonus. The red-tipped pointer displays the date around the edge of the dial - not as convenient as a date window, but a nice touch with a slight vintage appeal. The dial initially appears black, but is actually an attractive midnight blue. The display case back shows the minimally decorated automatic movement. The well-proportioned, undecorated and polished case is rated to 50m water resistance, safe for shallow swimming and in the bath. 

Overall this is an understatedly handsome watch with no unnecessary decoration or features - a true tool watch. The recently introduced calibre 403 movement is designed in-house. It has a five day power reserve, so if you chop and change your watches daily this won't run out of puff after a day or two off the wrist. It's claimed to run within chronograph tolerances (-3/+5 seconds a day) although not officially COSC rated. A ten year warranty and anti-magnetic properties all add to the attraction and at £2600 the price is fair. 

The Oris Big Crown Pinter Date is is a watch I'd happily add to my modest collection. It is adaptable and handsome enough to wear formally with a suit or jacket and tie (if you ever choose to do that nowadays) or with jeans, cords and knitwear. See Oris for more information.

The watch was lent for review.

Rotary Watches and Prostate Cancer UK in Collaboration

In the past 20 years Prostate Cancer UK has spent over £37 million on research into a cancer that will affect 1 in 8 men. For the first time the charity has collaborated with a watch company, Rotary, to produce a watch that marks the charity's 25th anniversary and sales of which will support the prevention of prostate cancer, a disease from which a man dies every 45 minutes (see below for more information on both the charity and the disease).

The watch has a quartz movement and a nicely made case, dial and hands. Overall it's a handsome watch and excellent value. Rotary will contribute 10% plus VAT from the sale of every watch to the charity. The chronograph will be limited to 1000 individually numbered pieces and each carries the Man of Men logo of Prostate Cancer UK.

Case dimensions 42mm
Water resistant 50m 

Sapphire Glass
Limited Edition of 1000 RRP £199. 

Available only from www.rotarywatches.com and www.watchshop.com.

 

ABOUT PROSTATE CANCER (information from Prostate Cancer UK)

• Prostate cancer is the most common cancer in men – and now the most commonly diagnosed of all cancers in the UK.
• More than 11,500 men die from prostate cancer in the UK each year – that’s one man every 45 minutes.
• 1 in 8 men will be diagnosed with prostate cancer in their lifetime. This raises to 1 in 4 for black men.
• Around 400,000 men are living with and after prostate cancer.
• Prostate cancer mainly affects men over 50 and the risk increases with age. But the risk is higher for black men or men with a family history of prostate cancer, so they may wish to speak to their GP from age 45. A 30-second online risk checker is available at prostatecanceruk.org/risk-checker
• Prostate cancer often has no symptoms so men shouldn’t wait to see changes before they act.
• Anyone with concerns about prostate cancer may contact Prostate Cancer UK’s Specialist Nurses in confidence on 0800 074 8383 or online via the Live Chat instant messaging service: prostatecanceruk.org. The Specialist Nurse phone service is free to landlines and open from 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday, and 10am to 6pm on Wednesdays. 

ABOUT PROSTATE CANCER UK

Prostate Cancer UK has a simple ambition – to stop prostate cancer damaging the lives of men and their families.

• Investing in better treatments and tests that could save thousands of lives.
• Working with the NHS to make sure men get access to breakthrough tests and treatments.
• Spreading the word about who is at risk of prostate cancer, especially to those at higher risk. 

• Supporting people dealing with prostate cancer and providing health information.

Visit prostatecanceruk.org to find out more. @ProstateUK #MenWeAreWithYou

Prostate Cancer UK is a registered charity in England and Wales (1005541) and in Scotland (SC039332). Registered company 02653887.

Watch provided for review by Rotary Watches.

Fears Launches Rectangular Watch to Celebrate 175 Years

Fears Watches, who are celebrating their 175th anniversary (they have launched a book about the brand - see link below), have introduced a rectangular watch inspired by a 1930s Fears art deco timepiece. The Archival 1930 uses new-old-stock movements dating from the 1930s and 1960s which are overhauled and assembled in the U.K. 

One of the two new Fears Archival watches

I was able to look closely at the two watches recently and was impressed by the quality of the finish of dial and case. They are launched at a time when rectangular watches seem to be sought after among watch lovers. While vintage in character, there is something very contemporary about the simplicity of their styling.

I was wearing a 1930s Jaeger LeCoultre when I met Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, head of Fears, recently to see the new watches. I wasn't previously aware of their rectangular shape and it was coincidental that I was wearing a similar watch, but the fact that I was doing so was illustrative of the recent rise in popularity of the shape, evidenced by interest in rectangular timepieces such as the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, Cartier and others.

Fears Archival watches with '30s Jaeger LeCoultre and Fears's Nicholas Bowman-Scargill

The curved profile case of the Fears Archival watch is machined from 316L stainless steel and preserves the proportions of, while being slightly larger than, the 1930s original. A ‘Vintage Champagne’ dial is set off by a contrasting polished 18ct yellow gold border and crisp black Art Deco-style numerals and minute track. The simple blued hands are solid versions of the ‘Fears’ shape watch hands and feature a central bevel with diamond polishing on either side. 

All the sizes and proportions have been carefully thought out and tweaked in order to achieve just the right appearance. In watch design it's remarkable how even tenths of a millimetre can make a discernible difference to a watch's appearance and it wasn't simply a case of scaling up from the slightly smaller vintage original (see the image below).

The 1930s original Fears (left) alongside the two new models (not exactly to scale)

Each watch has a vintage-style handmade Oxblood Red calf leather strap tanned in Bristol by Thomas Ware & Sons, Britain’s oldest vegetable tanner who created the leather for Fears’ watch straps when the original watch was made in 1930.

The Archival 1930 is limited to 175 pieces (for the 175th anniversary) and there are two models, the first of which has been donated to the Bristol Museum for their permanent collection. They differ in the movements that power them, with the two-handed Archival 1930 (136 watches) using a new old stock manual winding movement dating from the 1960s. The three-handed Archival 1930 Small Seconds (39 pieces) uses a new old stock manual winding movement dating from the 1930s. Both are movements that Fears used in the past. Each is new/old stock and has undergone a full re-build and received an upgraded mainspring to enhance reliability. 

Which would you choose? In appearance, the two-handed (far right in the picture above) is the simpler and therefore more contemporary looking. While it's obviously a personal choice, I rather like the three-hander (centre above) for its seconds hand, its proportions, the older movement and the fact that there will be fewer of them.

Priced at £3500 and £3950, these limited edition, made in England, watches are available from Fears Watches.

See here for a feature on the recently published history of Fears.

New book: 'Elegantly Understated: 175 years of the Fears Watch Company'

I've written several times here on the blog about the Fears Watch Company and its revival over four years ago by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great great great grandson of the founder (links below). 

The 175th anniversary of the founding in 1846 has been celebrated in a new book, Elegantly Understated: 175 years of the Fears Watch Company written by Bristol-based author, Jane Duffus with a foreword by renowned watchmaker, Roger Smith OBE.

The title of the book is, of course, apposite as Fears watches are beautifully designed: understated and elegant. The book is a well-deserved  celebration of the revival of a brand making quality British-made watches.

An example of a Fears watch; the Fears Blue

Roger Smith, regarded as the finest watchmaker in the world, comments on the book, 

"The 175th anniversary of Fears arrives at a pivotal time for British watchmaking. When we founded the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers to guide the resurgence of our sector, we immediately recognised the importance of Fears as one of our true heritage makers with a fascinating and genuine continuation of one of Britain’s oldest watchmaking families. It was therefore a privilege to contribute a foreword for this important book and I wish Nicholas and the Fears family my very best for another 175 years - and volume 2!”

The book, printed and bound in the U.K., is available through The Fears Watch Company and is an essential addition to the library of anyone interested in watches, British watchmaking or who owns a Fears watch.

Click here for previous blog features on The Fears Watch Company, its founder and some of its products.

Buying Vintage and Pre-Used Watches: A Collaboration with Chrono 24

I've been an occasional buyer and seller of vintage and pre-loved watches for some twenty years. A well-designed watch is an important part of the style equation and says much about the wearer in the same way that a stylish outfit does.

Over those years I've seen watch values rise steadily and in the last 18 months prices of some of my favourite used watches have increased by 20% or more. Purchasers have come to appreciate the stylish beauty of a good vintage watch which will often hold its value well, offering a financially attractive alternative to a brand new timepiece.

A vintage watch is very much part of the style equation (image Grey Fox Blog)

I don't advocate buying watches for investment - they are best worn and enjoyed - but whether you do or not, a high level of expertise and experience is required to buy safely. Too many poor quality and even fake watches (particularly Rolex, the fakers' favourite) appear on the market and great care is needed to buy successfully. If you're knowledgeable then the rare bargain can be picked up on online markets like eBay, but it's too easy even for an expert to buy a fake or a watch needing an expensive overhaul or one that's been messed around and is worth less than you paid.

A safer option is to buy from a trusted dealer, but prices will be high and you also need to be sure that you can trust the dealer. A sensible solution is to buy via Chrono 24 (link below). I browse this international online watch sales site several times a week to keep an eye on prices and when I'm looking to purchase (which is rarely nowadays), so I was pleased when they approached me with the idea of a paid collaboration. I'm happy to use them and can give my genuine views about purchasing a watch through their site. 

Chrono 24 online watch sales

Sellers on Chrono 24 are both dealers (the majority) and private but, most importantly from the point of view of the purchaser, Chrono 24 offers a number of safeguards to ensure that you buy well and safely. These include:

• An authenticity guarantee with 14 days to return a watch and an escrow service whereby they withhold payment from the seller until the purchaser has had time to ensure s/he is happy with the watch.
• A 14 day refund service.
• A forty person security team to spot suspicious listings.
• Dealers ship watches fully insured.
• All dealers have to go through a verification service, details of which are given on the site.

Given the minefield that vintage and pre-loved watch purchase can be, Chrono 24 offer a fair amount of security and I've been happy to buy through them in the past. Prices can seem higher than elsewhere, the additional security offered to buyers makes this more than worthwhile.

Study images for clues as to condition; ask for better if, like this one, they lack detail

Study movement images; signs of dirt and rust here suggest caution

The exterior of the same watch: some wear to the dial, the bracelet may be worn

Whenever you buy from any vendor keep your wits about you. Genuine bargains are almost impossible to find now, so be prepared to pay well for a good example. Take into account the costs of servicing a watch which hasn't recently been overhauled and ask plenty of questions about the watch before buying. The vendor's replies will tell you much about them as a seller - remember that you're buying the seller as much as the watch. Take into account also that buying from abroad may attract VAT and other costs.

Many of these concerns will be reduced buying through Chrono 24, but this doesn't make any less your responsibilities as purchaser to make full enquires of the seller.

Link to Chrono 24.

This is a paid collaboration with Chrono 24. 

Rotary Regent: Affordably Stylish Mechanical Wristwatch

Rotary have been around as a watch company since 1895. UK-based, their watches are British-designed and made in China, which means that they combine quality and value. The new Regent models are mechanical watches that are priced the same as many quartz watches, but offer all the style and fascination that a watch strapped to your wrist that's powered by a little motor offers over its battery-powered cousins.

The Rotary Regent watch 

I was recently sent a Rotary Regent watch to try. They come with either a closed dial (like mine) or a skeleton dial which shows the Miyota movement from the front. Both have a display back showing the movement at the back of the watch. They come on either a leather strap or a robust steel bracelet. The integrated nature of the attachment to the case means that the choice of strap is restricted but the design is attractively different. 

Rotary Regent: A lot of mechanical watch for £249 (bottom left, prices vary)

In many ways the watch owes its look to those gorgeous - and many times more pricey - watches designed by the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta such as the Audemars Piguet and Patek Phillipe Nautilus. There's nothing wrong with that; there are few watches of any price that don't owe elements of their design to other brands.

The Regent has a 40mm case water resistant to 100m, has a date function and comes with blue, black or skeleton dials. Prices start at £249 for the model here to £329 for the skeleton dial with steel bracelet. For the money this is an attractive, robust and stylish watch and it's good to find that good mechanical wristwatches are available at this price point. See Rotary for more information.

I was sent a sample of the Rotary Regent to review. All views are mine alone.

Equus Leather Watch Straps: Russian Reindeer Hide From 1786

Wearing a watch strap made from 230 year old leather is something of a talking point. In 1786 a ship, the Metta Catharina, sought shelter from a storm in Plymouth Sound but her anchor dragged and she was wrecked on the shore of Drake's Island. 

Nearly 200 years later part of the ship's cargo of leather (thought to be reindeer hides from Russia) was recovered and restored. Tanned with willow bark and treated with birch bark oil, it was renowned for its water resistance and insect-proof qualities. Despite its long stay under water, the restored leather has been used to make everything from shoes to wallets and watch straps.

Equus Leather strap made from 1786 Metta Catharina restored Russian leather

Leather from the 1786 wreck of the Metta Catharina

I've talked before about Equus Leather who made me a watch strap from Cuir de Russie, a modern leather made using techniques similar to those used to make the leather recovered from the Metta Catharina. On this occasion they have made me another strap from the old leather and you can see it below on the Tudor Submariner and, below that, alongside the modern Cuir de Russie.

Equus 1786 leather strap to the left of the modern Cuir de Russie

Both leathers smell gorgeously of birch oil, a leathery, slightly tarry scent. This fades with use of course. The older leather is slightly dryer and prone to very faint cracking if bent too sharply, but this is hardly surprising given that it spent nearly 200 years underwater, and it adds to the patina of the material. The rich brown, antique finish is perfect for almost any watch, but I think it complements an older watch with buttery luminous numerals to perfection - a treat for watch and owner. The leather was artificially grained when manufactured in the 1780s. This varies in appearance which adds to the character of this remarkable leather.

Equus owner, Charlie, started out as a saddler, having ridden event horses for a living. He worked in finance for a while before focusing on saddlery and leatherwork. He started Equus 13 years ago and is a fount of knowledge of leatherworking techniques. Needless to say, the strap is beautifully made and won't let you down. You won't find quality anything like this on a shop-bought leather watch strap.

Watch straps come in a wide variety of leathers, but one made from the extremely rare and limited leather from the Metta Catharina will cost you from £450. Charlie has only enough leather for a few more straps. Given that many brands of watch will charge at least that for a metal watch bracelet, I'd say that was well worth it for something so rare and with such a story attached to it.

See Equus Leather for more information.

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See also my earlier feature on Equus Leather.

Samples of the straps were provided for these features.