Monk Straps: The Cinderella of Shoes?

Monk strap shoes tend to be overlooked in favour of oxford, derbies, sneakers and loafers, but they offer both comfort and style and are worth your consideration when next buying shoes for casual or formal use. 

I wear Loake Medway suede monks (socks Peper Harow) - all made in England

I acquired my first pair (pictured above) only two or three years ago when I was looking for something a little different. A suede pair of single strap monks made in England by Loake, they have proved invaluable worn with everything from tweed, through formal suits to knitwear and jeans.

If you search for the history of the monk strap shoe you find references to medieval monks, but how this led to the adoption of the name for the shoe isn't clear. The general view seems to be that the style was developed in its present form early in the last century. Presumably the style reminded people of the strapped closed toed shoes that monks wore when their open-toed sandals were impractical for work outdoors as they let in stones and mud. 

I found an image (below) of a late 15th / early 16th century child's shoe from London's Victoria & Albert Museum which shows that buckled straps have been around for centuries. Although this is a shoe for a toddler, you can imagine monks wearing similarly simple but practical footwear. 

Child's strapped shoe late 15th/early16th century. Image V&A London

Advice on the web suggests that the monk strap shoe is semi-formal, somewhere between the oxford (formal) and derby (less so) with the double monk, which has two buckles on each shoe (see images below) being the more casual. Monks come in all sorts of leather and those in suede or with a brogued finish will be at the more casual end of the spectrum, while a plain pair in black calf would be ideal for more formal wear.

I'm wearing Loake single monk straps in black calf and suede

It's generally said that monks shouldn't be used with very formal wear such as black tie. I disagree. A single strap monk in polished black is an elegant and simple addition to evening wear. It's not uncommon to see men wearing monogrammed velvet slippers and even patent leather loafers with black tie so it's hard to understand how a simple, smart and stylish pair of highly polished monk shoes should be the cinderella at the ball.

Double & single monk straps (Loake Shoemakers)
I wear the black pair with formal evening wear

Click here to find out about the Loake English-made monk strap shoes.

With thanks to Loake Shoemakers for supplying the shoes and some of the images for this feature. 

A Guide to Perfect Trouser Leg Length

There has been much discussion about the sartorial tastes of Britain's latest Prime Minister, Rishi Sunak. His close fitting suits with cropped jackets and ankle length trousers proved controversial with some (see end of this feature), but his preference for having his trouser cuffs above his ankle bone is a reflection of the upward trajectory of trouser lengths over the last few years. 

While I personally wouldn't wear mine quite so short, I'd argue that the look is preferable to the trouser style of the former US President, Trump, whose trousers fold around his ankle and over his shoes - a look that is mercilessly untidy and unflattering.

Comparing trouser lengths, Sunak and Trump

The Ideal Trouser Length

So what is the ideal length for your trousers (or pants if you are from across The Pond)? As ever with matters of style, it's a matter of personal preference, but, as the above photos suggest, a shorter trouser length gives a cleaner look. Too short can give the appearance of a schoolboy who has outgrown his uniform, just as too long can give the opposite impression, that of the schoolboy whose parents are careful with money so have bought an oversize pair to ensure they last longer. There is a careful balance to be struck.

Guidance about trouser lengths usually discusses the 'break', the fold(s) caused by the cuff lying on the shoe. Significant breaks are now less often seen on those who profess to style. Trousers which taper nicely to a minimal or no break flatter the wearer, increasing the apparent of leg length and giving a neater look. Rishi Sunak is 1.7m (5' 7") and his shortened trousers with their clean line, to my eye, give him added apparent height.

My favoured trouser lengths

Turnups (or cuffs)

I've been having turn ups on my trousers for the last few years and, while I'm beginning to tire of them, this seems a good opportunity to share my thoughts on them. They do finish off more formal trousers nicely but I would avoid them on casual trousers as they fill with debris when worn on country walks. Jeans are hard to shorten without losing the stitching at the cuff (unless you're a dab hand with a sewing machine) so I tend to roll them up. Historically jeans were always sold at standard lengths so folding up the cuffs is a long and honourable tradition.

I wear my turn ups 2" deep. For those with slightly longer legs this works well, but for those with shorter legs I'd suggest 1.5" or 1.75" as deeper cuffs have a leg shortening effect.

Cropped Trousers

Cropped trousers, ending a couple of inches or more above the shoe, are a separate issue and are more of a fashion statement. They are associated in my mind (quite acceptably) with sockless summer wear with loafers, trainers or sandals or with the now rather overdone look of brogues on sockless feet. Cropped trousers look best with casual wear but many (such as Rishi Sunak) wear them tailored with suits and blazers where they give a more contemporary than classic look. 

Cropped trousers / pants - image The Sartorialist

And finally, below I cheekily reproduce a post from my Instagram grid from October 2022. Click here to see some of the wonderful (and less so) comments:

The Rules of Style & Buttoning Your Waistcoat

From time to time people contact me to complain about one or other aspect of a look that I've posted on Instagram. The last I received ticked me off for wearing a cardigan with the bottom button done up; and I suspect they were serious. This got me thinking generally about the 'rules' of style.

Image Whitfield & Ward Tailors who overlook the bottom button 'rule' for good reasons (see below)

There is a convention that the bottom button of a waistcoat (or vest to use its original name - still used in the US) is left undone. Several explanations can be found for this tradition. The most common is that King Edward VII's courtiers undid theirs to emulate their sovereign whose ample girth prevented him doing up every button of his waistcoat. It was perhaps a matter of etiquette: respect or politeness. As that particular King is long dead the convention could be said to have long lapsed. 

Whatever the origins of the habit, there is no 'rule' that demands that you leave said button undone. Look at the image below of a slim Edward VII (taken in 1882), what do you notice about the buttoning of his waistcoat / vest?

Edward VII Image National Portrait Gallery London

Waistcoats are often cut so that the bottom button can't be done up without affecting the line of the garment. That's a result of the convention. This is good enough reason to leave it undone; the cut makes it hard to do otherwise. My advice would be that, if the waistcoat is cut so that the bottom button can be done up, do just that. It will help cover your waistband and also look tidier (see the above image by Whitfield & Ward, Tailors (link below) - doesn't that look neat?) 

But however you want to play that one, there is no law, rule, etiquette, convention or tradition (going back to the recent complaint that I received) that demands that the bottom button of a cardigan be left unsecured. We often see buttons on cardigans (sleeved or sleeveless) left undone. This may be because the buttonholes have stretched and the buttons pop open, or it's an attempt at sprezzatura or in confusion over the waistcoat 'rules'. Or it may be that the cardigan is worn by a genuine sartorialist who has found the best way to wear the garment to make it look as good as possible - read on....

"If there are rules of style they are simply that you should wear clothes in a way that makes both the garment and you, the wearer, look as good as possible"

If there are any rules of style they are simply that you should wear clothes in a way that makes the garment look good and you, the wearer, feel comfortable. There are some ways of wearing clothes that look so bad that it's best to pretend there is a rule preventing them. Ties worn undone and at half mast look sloppy and it would look better to go tieless with collar undone. Wearing brogues without socks is a look has been overdone and is best avoided as it looks too studied. Wearing watches over shirt cuffs is just aping the style of Gianni Agnelli. Doing up the bottom button of a blazer or sports coat is inadvisable simply because doing so will usually spoil the line of the jacket because of its cut. But these are guidelines, not rules.

"The overarching question is not 'What is the rule?' but 'What looks best on you?'"

Good style arises from self confidence, wearing good quality clothes that fit well and, most importantly, not looking as if you've tried too hard. The best way to sprezzatura, the art of looking good without appearing to try, is to find your own style rather than copying slavishly what you see at Pitti Uomo or on Instagram or following irrational rules. 

The overarching question is not 'What is the rule?' but 'What looks best on you?'

[With thanks to Whitfield & Ward, Tailors, for permission to use their image above. This is an unsponsored post.]

Collected Articles on Style for Older Men

Early in the days of the blog (eleven years ago!) I began collecting articles on style for older men. I was looking through these recently and found that, while some are now quite old, they all contain good ideas so I've revived the feature and added some more recent material. If you know more, do let me know.

Older men with different styles - I'm with Svante @theurbanhippieswe

[Updated from the original 2011 feature] Here are a few of the better (and not too serious) newspaper and other articles on style and fashion for middle aged and older men. They are in no particular order; just as I find them. 

The important thing about fashion in middle age and beyond is that we are getting too old to take fashion seriously. Dress for yourself, feel comfortable, and don't listen to the fashion police.

What do I do? I keep an eye on Instagram and the better blogs for ideas, but try to use them to dress to suit my own personality rather than slavishly following transient fashions. Whatever you do, be careful about trying to relive lost youth by dressing like a teenager. It may work, if you have an extremely sophisticated sense of style, but you run the risk of looking a little sad. It's also unnecessary; we should be proud of our maturity - there are many classic styles ideal for the older man.

Photo The Sartorialist

Can you wear Topman at 67?
An interview in the Guardian with Nicky Haslam and his sense of fashion and style.

Old men dress cool
From one of my favourite bloggers, Style Salvage.

Take That:Style Icons for Older Men
An article in the Guardian. Take That!! Must be some mistake, surely?

Groovy Old Men: The Rise of the Silver Swingers
From the Independent, 'nuff said.

Can Middle-Aged Men Have Long Hair? 
From that excellent blogger, That's Not My Age.

Styles Middle-Aged Men Should Avoid If They Don't Want to Look Old: These Fashions Don't Make Anyone Look Young

Yahoo Voices.

Middle Aged-Men Who Dress Like Teenagers
Style Goes Strong

Newbie Fashion Tips for Grown-up Men
Stepcase Lifehack. This may seem a bit proscriptive, but is worth a read - most of the rules are sensible.

The Almost Shocking World of Older Men's Fashion
In a Grand Fashion reviews advice for older men. The article mentions Grey Fox as follows, "While there are many blogs for young, definitely under forty, I could find only one aimed at older, middle age men.  Grey Fox stresses dressing for one’s self instead of  for the latest fashion trend".

Why do men over 50 dress like tramps?
Mail Online. For personal reasons I avoid the Daily Mail. The standard of journalism is appallingly, with damaging and hurtful articles published with no proper research or regard for the truth. However, this is an unusually (for the Mail) sensible analysis and it is recommended reading.

Men stop caring about clothes at 37
Apparently the conclusion of a survey, apparently based on a survey, but I'm a bit suspicious about this one - it may be a dubious publicity stunt. Reported in the the Guardian here. Despite my doubts,  there is probably a degree of accuracy in these reports.

Fashion Tips for the Older Man
From the Belfast Telegraph - some interesting and useful comments about older men dressing well and not so well.

Medallion Man is Back - The Rise and Rise of Middle-Aged Vanity
From the Independent - not too bad, in parts. I agree with the warning that '...dignity is in danger of being jettisoned in the rush to drink at the fountains of eternal youth, or at least the rush to the hair dye kit, which is the next best thing'.

The humble Mamil: why we need 'middle-aged men in Lycra'
The Guardian. A nice defence of the MAMIL (middle-aged men in Lycra) by one of my favourite cycling writers, Matt Seaton.

Why do fathers insist on dressing like their teenage sons?
Which increasingly they seem to do although some sons adopt crisp shirts, chinos and brogues. See the picture which shows Tom Cruise and his son. Sydney Morning Herald.

The Sartorial Geniuses aged 60 plus
From The Telegraph - with wise words from blogger Tony Ton of jakandjil.com.

At the age of 37, you needn't start dressing like J*r*my Cl*rks*n
From The Guardian, a newspaper that I doubt Clarkson has ever read.

Skateboarding Past a Midlife Crisis
From the New York Times. Be careful, though; your bones have become more brittle as you get older.

Jeremy Paxman in tweeds is typical of the affliction that grips men in middle age
Hadley Freeman in the Guardian discusses older men's style. All about men reaching an age where they want to try something new. Some vestiges of truth here; maybe.

Why men over 40 are fashion disasters
From the Mail Online. The writer is mocked by his family for his dress sense. He suggests a few ideas, but this article is rather inconclusive, as I feel he doesn't really find a solution. He should find inspiration for his own style, grasp the nettle and confidently forge his own path. Not a happy outcome to this one.

How to dress well after 50
British GQ. Sensible with some interesting discussion; but nothing new.

Guys don't be a fashion disaster
Chicago Tribune.

Middle-aged men and their sad self-regard
The Independent. Sadly close to the bone; but then all ages are guilty of self-indulgence, not just older men.

Baseball caps, backpacks and an unlimited supply of flannel shirts: How middle-aged Silicon Valley CEOs compete with their twenty-something rivals

From the Mail Online - given that it's the Mail, it's a surprisingly good read (assuming it's not all made up). It reports, for example, how, 'One tech CEO admitted that he probably wouldn't be in his job if he had not shaved his grey hair and swopped brogues for sneakers to blend in.'

Fifty shades of silver fox: Blog celebrating stylish middle-aged men takes internet by storm

From the Mail Online again. About a blog called Grey Fox started by a middle-aged man called David Evans looking for style. Seems unlikely to me!

What's a man to wear when his pecs turn to 'soft peaks'?

Speak for yourself! From The Guardian.

Dressing your age - 40s
Dressing your age - 50s
Posts on the now dormant Fashionbeans - I don't agree with everything here, but basically sensible advice.

Marc Jacobs at 50
Showing that there's hope for us all in changing our lifestyles and getting fit. From Mail Online.

Male celebrities with grey hair
In case you find comfort in the thought that even they are getting older. From sofeminine.co.uk.

I want to feel like a new man
Guardian columnist has a makeover (apparently paid for by Hennessy - some makeover!)

The Vintage Years: is the fashion world starting to respect the middle-aged market?

More about the women's fashion market, but much is applicable to us chaps. From the Guardian.

How I Became a Fashion Don't A lovely response to a Details magazine article. Simon Doonan describes Katherine Wheelock as 'some kind of conservative anti-flamboyance watchdog for the colostomy-bag brigade'. Brilliant.

Dressing Up is a Sign of Vitality New York Times. Ari Seth Cohen, of the Advanced Style Blog, comments on the Wheelock and Doonan articles above.

Why older men are more stylish than young men A nice piece in The Telegraph, October 2014.

Men's style dilemma: Am I too old to wear this? This Telegraph piece makes some good points and concludes, correctly in my view, that the question is, 'Does this suit me?', not, 'Am I too old for this?'

Men become invisible at 39: Now they know how women feel. Again, from The Telegraph. Reports the conclusions of a survey, but then, as the man said, there's lies, damn lies and surveys.

Is it OK for men not to care about fashion?  The Telegraph (I'm impressed how this newspaper writes about age and style so much). Confuses fashion and style, doesn't add much to the discussion.

What makes certain men more stylish? The Telegraph. A thoughtful piece by David Gandy which comes to the same conclusion as I have in my writing. As I say in my comments at the top of this post, style is about dressing to suit your personality, not following trends. Recommended reading.

How to Dress you Age - Forties British GQ. Good, emphasises style rather than fashion and highlights fit.

How to Dress your Age - Fifties British GQ. Good stuff, based on advice not to give up and again emphasising the importance of fit.

How to Dress your Age - Sixties and Beyond British GQ. Based on the inaccurate (I think, anyway) assumption that most men over 60 want to look younger, but this doesn't affect what is essentially good advice.

20 Things No Man over 40 Should Wear Daily Telegraph. I don't like writing that tells a man what he should and shouldn't wear. We may make suggestions and give our opinion, but not presume to tell others what to do. This verges on that approach. However, I agree with much of it!

Tom Hanks is redefining dad style - Not a bad article at all. Some sound advice from US GQ.

How to Dress Your Age - some useful ideas in this Gentleman's Gazette piece.

And see my own scribblings on this blog, for example on middle aged men and jeans.

Real People: Style for Older Men - I Put This On kindly interviewed me on this topic - sound advice (of course ;)).

What not to wear if you are a man over 50: The Guardian March 2019. Some useful thoughts here and much I'm not so sure about. Worth a read.

Dad Style: How to dress well as an older man: I wrote this here on the blog some years ago when 'dad style' was much discussed. Looking back, I'm not sure I like all that I say here, but have a read and complain to the management if you're unimpressed.

Grey Fox Style on Instagram

The 20 Definitive style rules for men over 40: cargo shorts need not apply - this is one of those black and white advice columns that set my teeth on edge - do this, don't do that. You can always tell what they will be like when you read the word 'rules' in the title. There are no rules - there are guidelines. While I confess I do follow some of their 'rules', I don't believe in being so proscriptive.

Dressing the older man: I came across this nicely considered piece in a blog I was unaware of before, Masculine Style. He makes the important point that staying in shape helps. Otherwise there is little you haven't read browsing the selection above, but a nice summary of thoughts for the older man in search of style.

Experience Required: Style Lessons from Men in Their Sixties: (August 2022) I had just about given up looking for decent articles on style for older men when I found this on Mr Porter's site. It makes a nice change actually interviewing stylish older men rather than telling them what they should or shouldn't be wearing. 

Ten Tips on What to Wear for Older Men by ace personal stylist, Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab.

What Are Men Wearing Now? NY Times. A useful style update.

Photo Tommy Ton - GQ

Ralph Lauren Autumn Winter '22: Honouring Roots and British Style

For Autumn/Winter 2022 Ralph Lauren Polo (link below) say they honour their "roots of distinctive details, tradition in textiles, and time-honored tailoring". The two videos below show their collections for men and women. It's interesting to see the strong British influence that underlies the American Ralph Lauren brand: tweeds and cloths from British mills, country life and sports, mountains, rugby football, a classic Land Rover, the Aston Martin, a steaming cup of tea and the heritage of the English country house. 

Ralph Lauren Shetland Tweed Jacket - Abraham Moon & Sons England cloth

Ralph Lauren's preppy and Ivy League looks owe much historically to British styles. Ralph Lauren himself said in an interview with Esquire in 2014, "England has always inspired my style and designs, and my respect for things that have a quality the more they are worn. The British have a true appreciation for heritage and tradition...."

So, the U.S. Ralph Lauren brand oozes British menswear heritage and styles - what British brands do the same? See here for my thoughts on this question: British Style: Is It Time for a Revival?

 

See Ralph Lauren.

Evelyn Waugh: The Comfort and Style of a Tweed Suit

The Italian word 'sprezzatura' perfectly describes that rather dishevelled but Oh-so-English look of a well-used tweed suit, as worn with such aplomb by so many men in the early half of the twentieth century. I came across the image below of author Evelyn Waugh which perfectly illustrates that casual, crumpled and unselfconscious English style. How can we emulate that comfortable tweedy appearance today?

Evelyn Waugh by Mark Gerson 1963

Waugh's suit appears to be a heavyweight tweed (they would normally have been fairly robust cloth in those days) in a shepherd check. As is normal with a well-worn-in tweed, it looks as comfortable as an old jumper and pair of jeans might be to us today. Men were used to wearing tailoring in those days, and Waugh would have thought nothing of throwing himself down on the sofa for a post-prandial nap fully clothed in his three-piece.

It's this slightly disordered but so natural and unforced look, the result of wearing a suit day in and day out, that's often admired in the English (or more strictly British) man of that era. Sadly today's man has largely abandoned tailoring in favour of casual wear or that mix of leisure and sports wear, 'athleisure', that, while possibly easy to wear, lacks elegance or style. 

The art of wearing tailoring for relaxation has been lost and today it's felt that sloppy and shapeless is necessary for easy wear. Evelyn Waugh shows us that this is a mistaken view. Tweed is a casual cloth, designed originally for easy movement outdoors, retaining its shape and protecting the wearer from the elements. A good quality cloth is soft, robust and lightweight, moulding readily to the body. Its forgiving nature means that it doesn't need to be treated with care, like a flannel business suit. 

Worn well the tweed suit combines effortless style with comfort. Let's buy more tweed suits (I suggest some sources of new and vintage tweeds below).

Waugh wears a houndstooth check tweed suit with a jaunty buttonhole

Vintage Tweed Suits

If you like your tweed suit traditional and heavy duty, try a vintage example. I bought a Harris tweed suit that must have been over 60 years old some years ago. The tweed was very heavy and you will find this is common with older suits. After some alterations it fitted well, but was too warm for indoor wear. 

If you buy online check with the seller for moth holes, torn linings and a general smell of damp, age or mothballs. And of course you should ask for detailed measurements, comparing them to a suit that you know fits. Aim for minimal alterations as too great a change to size isn't always successful.

Here are a few links - you may find more:

Hornets Vintage

Savvy Row

Fogey Unlimited

New Tweed Suits

Any tailor will be delighted to make a tweed suit - whether made to measure of fully bespoke will depend on your budget and preferences. Ready to wear (RTW) is the affordable option and most stores and tailors will alter a suit to fit as well as possible. 

Here are a few suggested links - there are many more out there and I've confined myself to a few stores and tailors I know or have experience of:

Dege & Skinner for the full bespoke Savile Row experience and a suit that will fit to perfection.

Susannah Hall - British made suits.

Cordings of Piccadilly - their affordable RTW suits are made of the best tweed. They fit me perfectly, but they will alter for you if needed.

Campbell's of Beauly - in Scotland near Inverness: a tweed heaven offering RTW and bespoke tailoring. They specialise in estate tweeds. This is a topic on its own, but many Scottish sporting estates have since Victorian times developed their own tweeds, the colours and patterns reflecting the colours of their local rock, heather, water and skies.

David Hockney's Yellow Crocs And Why is Menswear So Boring?

The recent sight of David Hockney wearing yellow Crocs at an Order of Merit meeting at Buckingham Palace caused a stir in the Press. Crocs - in front of His Majesty! 

As a man of style, King Charles took it all in his stride of course, commenting, "Your yellow galoshes! Beautifully chosen." But how significant is it that such a striking choice of footwear should make such an impact? Is it because many of us are now wearing menswear that is dingy, dark and dull; that we aren't used to seeing displays of sartorial sassiness in men? 

How often does what we wear reflect our personalities rather than simply an acquired look or trend?

Light in the gloom.
Hockney's Crocs (and the women) light up a monochrome OM luncheon meeting.

The above image of those attending the Order of Merit luncheon shows how men's formal business wear is traditionally dark: black or dark blues predominate. This is nothing new. Since the early nineteenth century most men have avoided colour and bright pattern, a trend marked by Beau Brummell's choice of plain and sober clothing. Victorian men adopted darker hues to emphasise their serious, god-fearing and industrious approach to life.

This continued into the twentieth century and, while the sixties signalled as temporary shift to colour and pattern for the young in particular, we seem to have returned to a period when both young and old prefer darker clothing, whether for formal or casual wear. Look at any high street, where drab hoodies, quilted coats and jeans predominate. Maybe this is a reflection of the times. Do we feel that here isn't much to be cheerful about in the world at the moment and does this reflect in our sober choices of clothing? 

Hockney's outfit at the OM luncheon is a welcome change. He has chosen to dress in a way that is comfortable and still reflects his character and interests. We may not all approve of the yellow Crocs, but the lighter coloured check tweed suit is a style that we could all adopt. Try patterned tweeds, bright knitwear, trousers in brighter hues, bold striped shirts and pastel contrasting socks to move away from this monochrome madness.

From Formal to Casual With Denim & Chambray Shirts

The suit has had a hard time over the two or three years, with many forecasting its demise. My own view (link below) is that the suit survives, albeit in a modified form and here setbacks provide opportunities. Select the right shirt and you can change a suit's look to make it more versatile, as I show  you here.

I'm grateful to Thomas Pink shirts for sending me a denim and a chambray shirt to illustrate this feature. 

Thomas Pink denim shirt

Same suit; different looks. Chambray and denim shirts from Thomas Pink

While the formal business suit is undoubtedly on the wane, suits with a more comfortable cut and cloth can be worn either formally or casually, as the opportunity demands. Take a tweed or Prince of Wales check suit: worn with smart oxford shoes, a crisp white shirt and madder silk tie it can be worn to a formal or work meeting, but wear it with loafers, a denim or chambray shirt, cravat or neckerchief and it becomes a comfortable option for a  more casual look.

Denim and chambray reduce the formality of tailoring because they are both cloths with roots in workwear. Such shirts look more comfortable than a crisp business shirt made from a fine poplin, oxford or Sea Island cotton. As they age they soften and take on a patina of wear at the collar, seams and folds. A slight fraying at the edges adds to this comfortable look and is a godsend for those aiming to exude an air of sprezzatura*. 

Denim or Chambray?

Denim and chambray are woven from two different coloured yarns, usually indigo and white, giving them their characteristic slubby appearance. They are woven differently: denim tends to be thicker than chambray and has a different appearance on each side of the cloth, while chambray looks the same each side. Denim tends to fade much more markedly and this makes it the more casual looking of the two, particularly with its association with workwear since the nineteenth century and earlier. Due to its lighter weight and breathability, chambray is better for warmer weather.

*Sprezzatura: 'Studied carelessness'.

The shirts used in this post were from Thomas Pink

Book Review: The Rebel's Wardrobe pub. by Gestalten

To while away the long winter nights, I recommend reading The Rebel’s Wardrobe: The Untold Story of Menswear’s Renegade Past (published by Gestalten 2022). The book explores many items of menswear, their origins and the men, famous and not, who wore them before they became popular daily wear.

From the white t-shirt and workwear through flying jackets to the Aran sweater, safari jackets, denim and trench coats, hats and footwear, it takes a fascinating look at selected items of mens's clothing that started out as radical signs of rebellion only to become mainstream. 

The book is informative rather than merely descriptive and covers men and their clothing from both sides of the Atlantic. It's well presented with a good balance of images to text. There are one or two very minor errors: an image of a father showing his son how to lace up 'work boots' is actually lacing and blancoing canvas cricket boots and I haven't seen the spelling 'mack' for a 'mac' or mackintosh coat before - but these are very rare and don't take away from a readable and interesting look at menswear's heritage.

Highly recommended for any enthusiast of menswear and its history and context. For more information and to buy the book go to Gestalten.

All images: Illustration Florian Bayer, The Rebel's Wardrobe, gestalten 2022

Grey Fox x Cordings of Piccadilly - A Collaboration

It's an absolute delight for me to announce a collaboration with classic British brand, Cordings of Piccadilly. They are everything I love about British menswear. They've  been around since 1839 and have remained true to their solid, practical, quality British heritage (see links below).

Wearing the Cordings x Grey Fox cord suit and wool check tie

I've written before about British style and its influence on western menswear. From preppy American and Ivy League to contemporary Japanese street style, staples like tweed, corduroy suits, polo and covert coats and outdoor and country sportswear have become classics of style and fashion. Cordings' longstanding place in the heritage of British men's style makes it a great privilege to work with them to put together this small largely British-made collection.

The collection is designed to be the start of a capsule wardrobe. By this I mean that every can be paired with the others. Rich reds and natural green runs through the palette, with the textures of corduroy, brushed Shetland knits and earthy Loden holding it together and providing contrast and variety. 

The collection comprises five pieces:

• Two Shetland jumpers in a rich red and a mossy green (crew and V-neck respectively), made in Scotland. I was keen to have the wool lightly brushed as a nod to the heritage of Scottish knitwear (the jumpers are brushed using the dried spiky seed heads of the teasel plant). I also wanted to recall the popularity of brushed Shetland ('Shaggy Shetlands') as icons of preppy and Ivy League styles.
• A check wool tie. This is inspired by a vintage tie which I own, made in Scotland in the 1950s.
• A brown corduroy suit. This is based on one made for me by Cordings a few years ago and which proved very popular when I showed it on Instagram. My suit was made from Italian cord but I'm delighted to say that the collaboration suit is made from a similar corduroy made in England some years ago and found in the archives of Brisbane Moss. Like all Cordings' suits, it's tailored to a high standard but at an affordable price.
• A Loden 'Coldstream' coat. Based loosely on the double breasted coats worn by the five British Foot Guards regiments during the colder months, it's made in London from a gorgeous mix of alpaca and wool. The buttons are real buffalo horn. The luxury cloth means that it isn't heavy and the coat is comfortable and warm to wear during the colder months.

For more on these items, how we came to design them, their costs and how to buy, go to Cordings x Grey Fox

Follow me on Instagram to see more @greyfoxstyle

More about this collaboration: This is a sponsored collaboration with Cordings of Piccadilly. For me, collaborations are like buses; you wait ages and then they all arrive together. This collaboration is the second since the blog was founded nearly eleven years ago and I have a third coming soon (the first was launched last month here). I've long wanted to apply my tastes to a real collection. After so long curating Grey Fox I have a fair idea what I like and, more importantly, what you like. I welcome any comments and feedback - you can message or e-mail me from my Instagram account (above).

Dress Codes: What is Cocktail Attire?

Over the last few years the party dress codes of 'black tie', 'lounge suit' or 'smart casual' have been joined by 'cocktail attire'. If you Google the term you'll find that it's interpreted very widely. I've seen features on cocktail attire illustrated with everything from black tie, through lounge suits to smart casual, showing how unclear the code is. Here is my own interpretation of the dress code.

"...a code that allows for sophisticated creativity while remaining essentially formal"

The answer to the question 'what is cocktail attire?' is to see what isn't covered by the common existing dress codes, namely black tie, lounge suit, smart casual and casual. Cocktail comes just under black tie in terms of formality, is more creative than lounge suit and more dapper than smart casual. 

Ideas for Cocktail Attire Dress Code for Summer and Winter

A sophisticated look

With cocktail attire you're looking for a sophisticated look; nothing scruffy. Essential elements are: sharp tailoring, crisp shirt or thin knitted roll neck or other fine cashmere and good quality shoes (loafers, monks, oxfords - black or dark brown). 

For jackets; velvet is very dapper (perhaps as a smoking jacket), corduroy might work as a midnight blue well-tailored jacket worn with a crisp white shirt and knitted burgundy silk tie. A blazer is central to many a cocktail outfit and would work well with a tailored denim shirt.

I might wear a tie - although a well-cut shirt with collar undone with a jacket will work as long as the effect isn't too casual. I'd avoid bow ties.

Trousers are best tailored and may be dark-coloured, tartan, check or be borrowed from your evening suit; lighter colours would suit a summer cocktail party. Turn-ups (cuffs) are generally considered too informal for black tie evening suits but I'd happily wear them as part of cocktail attire.

No jeans, no trainers, no chunky country shoes and certainly no ties at half mast: either wear one properly or not at all. I'd personally avoid tweeds or tan shoes; these are just too country or daywear for a semi-formal look, but they could work for some if dapper enough. 

Colour

Cocktail allows creativity. Experiment with colour, remembering that the key is sophisticated formality. If you wear a dark suit, spice it up with a silk waistcoat or coloured shirt. Avoid overall black; cocktail is about celebration and you have the freedom to move away from monochrome. Rich midnight blues, velvet bottle greens and soft ochres give a sophisticated edge that bright primary colours lack, although these may suit a summer event.

In general too busy a pattern may lack the sophistication needed for cocktail, having said that I include a Fair Isle V-neck paired with a tie and a Bode short sleeved shirt for a summer event in the images here, so see what you think. Almost anything by way of a sophisticated patterned shirt or fine jersey will do when paired with crisp tailoring and good quality footwear.

Accessories

A smart vintage watch (leave the chunky diver or pilot's chronograph at home), cufflinks, pocket square, a discreet boutonnière, minimalist silk tie and perhaps a silk evening scarf will all add to the overall impression.

In summary: for 'Cocktail Attire' don't get too formal by straying into black tie but conversely don't stray too far into untailored casual wear.

Ten Ways to Personal Style: Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab

Thankfully we all have a very personal styles and no two of us have identical tastes or wear the same clothes. In this feature we further explore the theme of style with the help of a great friend, personal stylist Sarah Gilfillan (link to her website below) who has advised me often on finer points of menswear style. 

Different styles: how do you find yours? (I'm with Svante Nybyggars)

Sarah advises men on menswear and style through her personal styling consultancy at Sartoria Lab (link below) and is therefore well-placed to give her thoughts on this knotty topic. Here are her Ten Points of Style:

• Find out what colours suit you – experiment with trying out new colours – what have people complimented you on the past? What makes your skin look healthy and brings attention to your eyes? 

Try and figure out if you have a warm skin tone (olive, freckly or golden looking) which suit colours like khaki, mustard and tan. Or a cool skin tone (pale or pink toned, or cool brown) – which look good in most blues, cooler greens like jade/forest and pink toned reds.

• Analyse the details of things you’ve bought and liked in the past - what did you like – was it the shape that suited you, did you like the fabric or texture, or was it the colour? Do you prefer things that are smooth and sleek or ones with tweedy textures and a more worn in look? Do you like a sharp silhouette or more relaxed and less structured shapes?

• Try out new things every so often. If you’re out shopping, take a “wild card” item into the fitting room with you – something you wouldn’t normally try on but like the look of. You might find it suits you and you’ve made a brand new discovery.

• Pay attention to the finishing off points – try on a size up or down to get the right fit, add a scarf or an interesting belt to your outfit. Fit is the starting point of looking good and accessories can take an outfit from looking okay to great.

• Think about your outfit as a whole – when you’re buying something new think about what you’ll wear it with. Can you layer things underneath it or on top of it? Does it need a contrast in colour between the top and the bottom to enhance it? Do the proportions work with things you have eg; if you move to wearing wider leg trousers from slim, you might need to update your footwear to something chunkier to balance them.

• Buy to fit your lifestyle –if you mainly wear practical, casual clothes every day, then spend the money on them rather than a suit that you wear twice a year. Look for practical items that have some unusual detailing, and try mixing interesting colours together, or accessorising with scarves, cool socks or belts to bring a modern edge to them.

• Go to different shops for new discoveries – and if they have helpful shop assistants, make use of them. Things change and the shop you’ve always been to may have a different designer now which isn’t your thing or you may have grown out of it. Have a look on Instagram to find new brands to try out.

• Contrasts can be interesting – if you have an outfit in one colour like navy then contrasting textures like denim, cashmere and suede work well. A blazer looks best with trousers in a contrasting colour or texture, so it doesn’t look like a mismatched suit. You can also play around with contrasting smart and casual items like a chambray shirt worn with a suit to make it look more casual.

• Update your hairstyle and glasses – you can have an amazing outfit but if your hairstyle and glasses look old fashioned then it can ruin it. It can just be a few tweaks to your hairstyle (using a bit of product / having a definite parting) or if you don’t have any hair, using a darker or more colourful frame will make more of an impact to your look.

• Figure out what you think is “you” and expand it eg: if you like tweed jackets could you try a tweed bomber jacket or overcoat? If you love the simplicity of a suit but don’t have the occasion to wear it could you replicate the pared back style with more casual things like a navy cardigan, white button down shirt, navy chinos and black leather trainers? If you always wear jeans could you try grey or ecru instead of blue, or cord instead of denim?

To contact Sarah about her personal styling consultancy services, see Sartoria Lab.

This feature follows on from my How To Find Your Personal Style: A Ten Point Guide

Socks from Peper Harow - Colour and Pattern

I lived through the era of tasteless socks. In the eighties and early nineties grown men would be seen wearing cartoon socks and matching ties. A result has been that I'm now very conservative in my sock choices. I've been tempted out of this bland caution by socks from British sock makers, Peper Harow who make some gorgeous patterned socks in the best possible taste. 

The socks are extremely well-made and comfortable to wear; the best of British sock manufacture. Peper Harow are proud of their British factory, their focus on sustainability and also on their adventurous designs. At a time when men, like me, are conservative in their sock tastes, it's welcome to see a brand leading us to more exciting sock choices.

Peper Harow socks

This is a sponsored collaboration with Peper Harow socks.

How To Find Your Personal Style: A Ten Point Guide

For nearly eleven years ago I've used the tagline 'A Search for Style' to describe this blog's main aim. Yet I've not yet shared my experiences of the process of finding a personal style. In this post I give some suggestions to help you find your own successful style.

Tweed suit Cordings of Piccadilly

Here are a few thoughts:

1. You will never complete the journey to style to your total satisfaction. Your tastes keep developing and external factors change. The clothes you see people wearing, the styles illustrated in the press and online will all affect your style decisions, but the final choices are yours alone and are independent of fashion. Fashion influences but never dictates true style; see 5 below.
2. Feeling comfortable with what you wear is fundamental to personal style. If you feel self-conscious you won't look at home in your clothes - the often used phrase is, 'Wear your clothes, don't let them wear you'. 
3. Following on from the last point, I've found that confidence comes with experience and with trying different styles, shapes, patterns, colours. 
4. Personal style must reflect your personality. It may be a mix of influences but it's never a copy of one person's ideas or of fashion trends. Your very individual characteristics and choices are what colour your style.
5. Look around you to help you establish what it is you like and don't like. Study Instagram, Pinterest, blogs and what men are wearing on the streets. This is the best way of deciding what to try and this takes us to the next step....
6. Try out what you like before adopting it. You may like a look on others but find that it doesn't suit you. It's this process of being inspired to try something and then testing it out on yourself that is central to the process of deciding what suits you best. You're getting to know yourself, your tastes, your personal style.
7. Rely on your own developing taste, but do take into account the views of people you respect if unsure. Try out different looks and if uncertain ask a close friend, lover, partner for their view (avoid asking the younger generation as the answer will probably be unpalatable!)
8. Whatever you do, approach the process with an adventurous and enquiring spirit. Push the limits of your comfort zone. Real style always has an edginess. It's more than just being well-dressed, it's about finding looks which go beyond the safe, showing something of your own personality. Real style has the sort of impact that prompts people to compliment you on how you look - and that is sort of a nice boost to the confidence. 
9. Personal style is about more than just what you wear. Keeping fit, walking tall with attitude and confidence and being generally well-groomed will all add to the overall impression of sartorial excellence.
10. I found the help of a professional personal stylist very useful in getting started on my style journey. I've known Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab for years and her support and advice has been invaluable. 

As ever, I welcome your thoughts and comments and you can email me on greyfoxblog AT gmail DOT com or message me through @GreyFoxStyle on Instagram.

See also on the blog What is Style? in which Sarah Gilfillan and I attempt to define 'style'. 

Laurence Fellows, Illustrator: When Style Upstaged Fashion

It's refreshing to look back at the illustrations of Laurence Fellows (1885-1964). His evocative drawings of men's styles from the thirties and forties (when he worked for Apparel Arts and Esquire and other publications) hark back to an era when maturity and sophistication, rather than the boyishly youthful looks of modern catwalks and advertising, sold menswear. 

As menswear advertising became youth-focused over the last forty or fifty years so looking well-dressed became secondary to following fashion. For young men, their clothes show that they're different from the previous generation; for most older men, clothes are the vehicle by which they express their self-confidence and personality. In very general terms, the young man follows fashion, the older finds his own style. 

In Fellows' time fashion existed of course, but style remained the ultimate aim - partly because most men had small wardrobes and were unable to afford the large (and unsustainable) volume of clothing of the modern man.

I find Fellows's illustrations rich in inspiration, especially now that vintage styles are influencing menswear. The last few years have seen a revival in interest in suits, hats, brogues, tweed and looser-fitting pleated trousers. Details like shawl collars, tweed caps, waistcoats, pin collar shirts, braces and double breasted coats have been inspired by the likes of Suits, Mad Men, Peaky Blinders and even Downton Abbey. These have encouraged men and women to look back for inspiration to a more sophisticated, sartorial age.

Historically, it was the older man who helped show the younger man learn how to dress properly, just as our grandfathers often helped our fathers. Young men are increasingly to be seen in tweeds and brogue, albeit with a contemporary twist. 

Thank heavens that classic looks remain immutably stylish. 

(This is an edit of a feature which I first posted here on the blog in August 2017).

A Summer for Stripes

Summer and stripes seem to go together perfectly. Is it stripy deckchairs on the beach, Breton sailor's jumpers, seaside rock (candy), rowing and cricket blazers, or maybe the striped awnings of summer marquees that form the association? Certainly there is a strong link to the sea, making stripes perfect for holiday and casual wear. [Links to suppliers at end of this feature]

Summer stripes

Shirt from Grey Flannel (also in yellow). 'Harry' pocket square Geoff Stocker

I love blue stripes in particular - they go well with whites and creams of course, but best with summery yellows, reds and oranges. A red striped shirt I own is also a favourite - for summer any bright candy colour suits the clear brightness of the light. 

The broader the stripes the more impact they have - they are less serious, more playful: the formality of the city stripe combining with the sunny cheerfulness of a yacht's spinnaker. Finer stripes are more restrained but still add a slightly flamboyant feel to a look.

Shirt (right) Community Clothing Co. Cravat Cravat Club

Fine stripes - L: Seersucker suit Grey Flannel. C: Shirt Connolly. R: Workwear Jaeger

The summer is a time to celebrate the sun and warmth with colours that reflect the fun of holiday pastimes: beach swimming, barbecues, surfing and reading in the shade. 

Shirt CEO's Legacy Shirts. Watch Tudor Heritage chronograph on striped nylon strap

Multicoloured striped lightweight scarves from Wallace Sewell

Shirts CEO's Legacy, seersucker suit Grey Flannel

Merino polo shirt Connolly, hat Tom Smarte, shorts Grey Flannel, slippers William Norman London, denim jacket vintage Lee Riders

Suppliers

[Note some of these products were loaned, some bought and some gifted for review]

Grey Flannel

Geoff Stocker 

Cravat Club

Connolly

Wallace Sewell

CEO's Legacy Shirts

Jaeger (at Marks & Spencer)

Tudor Watches

Tom Smarte

William Norman London