The suit has had a hard time over the two or three years, with many forecasting its demise. My own view (link below) is that the suit survives, albeit in a modified form and here setbacks provide opportunities. Select the right shirt and you can change a suit's look to make it more versatile, as I show you here.
I'm grateful to Thomas Pink shirts for sending me a denim and a chambray shirt to illustrate this feature.
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| Thomas Pink denim shirt |
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| Same suit; different looks. Chambray and denim shirts from Thomas Pink |
While the formal business suit is undoubtedly on the wane, suits with a more comfortable cut and cloth can be worn either formally or casually, as the opportunity demands. Take a tweed or Prince of Wales check suit: worn with smart oxford shoes, a crisp white shirt and madder silk tie it can be worn to a formal or work meeting, but wear it with loafers, a denim or chambray shirt, cravat or neckerchief and it becomes a comfortable option for a more casual look.
Denim and chambray reduce the formality of tailoring because they are both cloths with roots in workwear. Such shirts look more comfortable than a crisp business shirt made from a fine poplin, oxford or Sea Island cotton. As they age they soften and take on a patina of wear at the collar, seams and folds. A slight fraying at the edges adds to this comfortable look and is a godsend for those aiming to exude an air of sprezzatura*.
Denim or Chambray?
Denim and chambray are woven from two different coloured yarns, usually indigo and white, giving them their characteristic slubby appearance. They are woven differently: denim tends to be thicker than chambray and has a different appearance on each side of the cloth, while chambray looks the same each side. Denim tends to fade much more markedly and this makes it the more casual looking of the two, particularly with its association with workwear since the nineteenth century and earlier. Due to its lighter weight and breathability, chambray is better for warmer weather.
*Sprezzatura: 'Studied carelessness'.
The shirts used in this post were from Thomas Pink
