Monk Straps: The Cinderella of Shoes?

Monk strap shoes tend to be overlooked in favour of oxford, derbies, sneakers and loafers, but they offer both comfort and style and are worth your consideration when next buying shoes for casual or formal use. 

I wear Loake Medway suede monks (socks Peper Harow) - all made in England

I acquired my first pair (pictured above) only two or three years ago when I was looking for something a little different. A suede pair of single strap monks made in England by Loake, they have proved invaluable worn with everything from tweed, through formal suits to knitwear and jeans.

If you search for the history of the monk strap shoe you find references to medieval monks, but how this led to the adoption of the name for the shoe isn't clear. The general view seems to be that the style was developed in its present form early in the last century. Presumably the style reminded people of the strapped closed toed shoes that monks wore when their open-toed sandals were impractical for work outdoors as they let in stones and mud. 

I found an image (below) of a late 15th / early 16th century child's shoe from London's Victoria & Albert Museum which shows that buckled straps have been around for centuries. Although this is a shoe for a toddler, you can imagine monks wearing similarly simple but practical footwear. 

Child's strapped shoe late 15th/early16th century. Image V&A London

Advice on the web suggests that the monk strap shoe is semi-formal, somewhere between the oxford (formal) and derby (less so) with the double monk, which has two buckles on each shoe (see images below) being the more casual. Monks come in all sorts of leather and those in suede or with a brogued finish will be at the more casual end of the spectrum, while a plain pair in black calf would be ideal for more formal wear.

I'm wearing Loake single monk straps in black calf and suede

It's generally said that monks shouldn't be used with very formal wear such as black tie. I disagree. A single strap monk in polished black is an elegant and simple addition to evening wear. It's not uncommon to see men wearing monogrammed velvet slippers and even patent leather loafers with black tie so it's hard to understand how a simple, smart and stylish pair of highly polished monk shoes should be the cinderella at the ball.

Double & single monk straps (Loake Shoemakers)
I wear the black pair with formal evening wear

Click here to find out about the Loake English-made monk strap shoes.

With thanks to Loake Shoemakers for supplying the shoes and some of the images for this feature. 

A Guide to Perfect Trouser Leg Length

There has been much discussion about the sartorial tastes of Britain's latest Prime Minister, Rishi Sunak. His close fitting suits with cropped jackets and ankle length trousers proved controversial with some (see end of this feature), but his preference for having his trouser cuffs above his ankle bone is a reflection of the upward trajectory of trouser lengths over the last few years. 

While I personally wouldn't wear mine quite so short, I'd argue that the look is preferable to the trouser style of the former US President, Trump, whose trousers fold around his ankle and over his shoes - a look that is mercilessly untidy and unflattering.

Comparing trouser lengths, Sunak and Trump

The Ideal Trouser Length

So what is the ideal length for your trousers (or pants if you are from across The Pond)? As ever with matters of style, it's a matter of personal preference, but, as the above photos suggest, a shorter trouser length gives a cleaner look. Too short can give the appearance of a schoolboy who has outgrown his uniform, just as too long can give the opposite impression, that of the schoolboy whose parents are careful with money so have bought an oversize pair to ensure they last longer. There is a careful balance to be struck.

Guidance about trouser lengths usually discusses the 'break', the fold(s) caused by the cuff lying on the shoe. Significant breaks are now less often seen on those who profess to style. Trousers which taper nicely to a minimal or no break flatter the wearer, increasing the apparent of leg length and giving a neater look. Rishi Sunak is 1.7m (5' 7") and his shortened trousers with their clean line, to my eye, give him added apparent height.

My favoured trouser lengths

Turnups (or cuffs)

I've been having turn ups on my trousers for the last few years and, while I'm beginning to tire of them, this seems a good opportunity to share my thoughts on them. They do finish off more formal trousers nicely but I would avoid them on casual trousers as they fill with debris when worn on country walks. Jeans are hard to shorten without losing the stitching at the cuff (unless you're a dab hand with a sewing machine) so I tend to roll them up. Historically jeans were always sold at standard lengths so folding up the cuffs is a long and honourable tradition.

I wear my turn ups 2" deep. For those with slightly longer legs this works well, but for those with shorter legs I'd suggest 1.5" or 1.75" as deeper cuffs have a leg shortening effect.

Cropped Trousers

Cropped trousers, ending a couple of inches or more above the shoe, are a separate issue and are more of a fashion statement. They are associated in my mind (quite acceptably) with sockless summer wear with loafers, trainers or sandals or with the now rather overdone look of brogues on sockless feet. Cropped trousers look best with casual wear but many (such as Rishi Sunak) wear them tailored with suits and blazers where they give a more contemporary than classic look. 

Cropped trousers / pants - image The Sartorialist

And finally, below I cheekily reproduce a post from my Instagram grid from October 2022. Click here to see some of the wonderful (and less so) comments:

The Rules of Style & Buttoning Your Waistcoat

From time to time people contact me to complain about one or other aspect of a look that I've posted on Instagram. The last I received ticked me off for wearing a cardigan with the bottom button done up; and I suspect they were serious. This got me thinking generally about the 'rules' of style.

Image Whitfield & Ward Tailors who overlook the bottom button 'rule' for good reasons (see below)

There is a convention that the bottom button of a waistcoat (or vest to use its original name - still used in the US) is left undone. Several explanations can be found for this tradition. The most common is that King Edward VII's courtiers undid theirs to emulate their sovereign whose ample girth prevented him doing up every button of his waistcoat. It was perhaps a matter of etiquette: respect or politeness. As that particular King is long dead the convention could be said to have long lapsed. 

Whatever the origins of the habit, there is no 'rule' that demands that you leave said button undone. Look at the image below of a slim Edward VII (taken in 1882), what do you notice about the buttoning of his waistcoat / vest?

Edward VII Image National Portrait Gallery London

Waistcoats are often cut so that the bottom button can't be done up without affecting the line of the garment. That's a result of the convention. This is good enough reason to leave it undone; the cut makes it hard to do otherwise. My advice would be that, if the waistcoat is cut so that the bottom button can be done up, do just that. It will help cover your waistband and also look tidier (see the above image by Whitfield & Ward, Tailors (link below) - doesn't that look neat?) 

But however you want to play that one, there is no law, rule, etiquette, convention or tradition (going back to the recent complaint that I received) that demands that the bottom button of a cardigan be left unsecured. We often see buttons on cardigans (sleeved or sleeveless) left undone. This may be because the buttonholes have stretched and the buttons pop open, or it's an attempt at sprezzatura or in confusion over the waistcoat 'rules'. Or it may be that the cardigan is worn by a genuine sartorialist who has found the best way to wear the garment to make it look as good as possible - read on....

"If there are rules of style they are simply that you should wear clothes in a way that makes both the garment and you, the wearer, look as good as possible"

If there are any rules of style they are simply that you should wear clothes in a way that makes the garment look good and you, the wearer, feel comfortable. There are some ways of wearing clothes that look so bad that it's best to pretend there is a rule preventing them. Ties worn undone and at half mast look sloppy and it would look better to go tieless with collar undone. Wearing brogues without socks is a look has been overdone and is best avoided as it looks too studied. Wearing watches over shirt cuffs is just aping the style of Gianni Agnelli. Doing up the bottom button of a blazer or sports coat is inadvisable simply because doing so will usually spoil the line of the jacket because of its cut. But these are guidelines, not rules.

"The overarching question is not 'What is the rule?' but 'What looks best on you?'"

Good style arises from self confidence, wearing good quality clothes that fit well and, most importantly, not looking as if you've tried too hard. The best way to sprezzatura, the art of looking good without appearing to try, is to find your own style rather than copying slavishly what you see at Pitti Uomo or on Instagram or following irrational rules. 

The overarching question is not 'What is the rule?' but 'What looks best on you?'

[With thanks to Whitfield & Ward, Tailors, for permission to use their image above. This is an unsponsored post.]

Ralph Lauren Autumn Winter '22: Honouring Roots and British Style

For Autumn/Winter 2022 Ralph Lauren Polo (link below) say they honour their "roots of distinctive details, tradition in textiles, and time-honored tailoring". The two videos below show their collections for men and women. It's interesting to see the strong British influence that underlies the American Ralph Lauren brand: tweeds and cloths from British mills, country life and sports, mountains, rugby football, a classic Land Rover, the Aston Martin, a steaming cup of tea and the heritage of the English country house. 

Ralph Lauren Shetland Tweed Jacket - Abraham Moon & Sons England cloth

Ralph Lauren's preppy and Ivy League looks owe much historically to British styles. Ralph Lauren himself said in an interview with Esquire in 2014, "England has always inspired my style and designs, and my respect for things that have a quality the more they are worn. The British have a true appreciation for heritage and tradition...."

So, the U.S. Ralph Lauren brand oozes British menswear heritage and styles - what British brands do the same? See here for my thoughts on this question: British Style: Is It Time for a Revival?

 

See Ralph Lauren.

Evelyn Waugh: The Comfort and Style of a Tweed Suit

The Italian word 'sprezzatura' perfectly describes that rather dishevelled but Oh-so-English look of a well-used tweed suit, as worn with such aplomb by so many men in the early half of the twentieth century. I came across the image below of author Evelyn Waugh which perfectly illustrates that casual, crumpled and unselfconscious English style. How can we emulate that comfortable tweedy appearance today?

Evelyn Waugh by Mark Gerson 1963

Waugh's suit appears to be a heavyweight tweed (they would normally have been fairly robust cloth in those days) in a shepherd check. As is normal with a well-worn-in tweed, it looks as comfortable as an old jumper and pair of jeans might be to us today. Men were used to wearing tailoring in those days, and Waugh would have thought nothing of throwing himself down on the sofa for a post-prandial nap fully clothed in his three-piece.

It's this slightly disordered but so natural and unforced look, the result of wearing a suit day in and day out, that's often admired in the English (or more strictly British) man of that era. Sadly today's man has largely abandoned tailoring in favour of casual wear or that mix of leisure and sports wear, 'athleisure', that, while possibly easy to wear, lacks elegance or style. 

The art of wearing tailoring for relaxation has been lost and today it's felt that sloppy and shapeless is necessary for easy wear. Evelyn Waugh shows us that this is a mistaken view. Tweed is a casual cloth, designed originally for easy movement outdoors, retaining its shape and protecting the wearer from the elements. A good quality cloth is soft, robust and lightweight, moulding readily to the body. Its forgiving nature means that it doesn't need to be treated with care, like a flannel business suit. 

Worn well the tweed suit combines effortless style with comfort. Let's buy more tweed suits (I suggest some sources of new and vintage tweeds below).

Waugh wears a houndstooth check tweed suit with a jaunty buttonhole

Vintage Tweed Suits

If you like your tweed suit traditional and heavy duty, try a vintage example. I bought a Harris tweed suit that must have been over 60 years old some years ago. The tweed was very heavy and you will find this is common with older suits. After some alterations it fitted well, but was too warm for indoor wear. 

If you buy online check with the seller for moth holes, torn linings and a general smell of damp, age or mothballs. And of course you should ask for detailed measurements, comparing them to a suit that you know fits. Aim for minimal alterations as too great a change to size isn't always successful.

Here are a few links - you may find more:

Hornets Vintage

Savvy Row

Fogey Unlimited

New Tweed Suits

Any tailor will be delighted to make a tweed suit - whether made to measure of fully bespoke will depend on your budget and preferences. Ready to wear (RTW) is the affordable option and most stores and tailors will alter a suit to fit as well as possible. 

Here are a few suggested links - there are many more out there and I've confined myself to a few stores and tailors I know or have experience of:

Dege & Skinner for the full bespoke Savile Row experience and a suit that will fit to perfection.

Susannah Hall - British made suits.

Cordings of Piccadilly - their affordable RTW suits are made of the best tweed. They fit me perfectly, but they will alter for you if needed.

Campbell's of Beauly - in Scotland near Inverness: a tweed heaven offering RTW and bespoke tailoring. They specialise in estate tweeds. This is a topic on its own, but many Scottish sporting estates have since Victorian times developed their own tweeds, the colours and patterns reflecting the colours of their local rock, heather, water and skies.

David Hockney's Yellow Crocs And Why is Menswear So Boring?

The recent sight of David Hockney wearing yellow Crocs at an Order of Merit meeting at Buckingham Palace caused a stir in the Press. Crocs - in front of His Majesty! 

As a man of style, King Charles took it all in his stride of course, commenting, "Your yellow galoshes! Beautifully chosen." But how significant is it that such a striking choice of footwear should make such an impact? Is it because many of us are now wearing menswear that is dingy, dark and dull; that we aren't used to seeing displays of sartorial sassiness in men? 

How often does what we wear reflect our personalities rather than simply an acquired look or trend?

Light in the gloom.
Hockney's Crocs (and the women) light up a monochrome OM luncheon meeting.

The above image of those attending the Order of Merit luncheon shows how men's formal business wear is traditionally dark: black or dark blues predominate. This is nothing new. Since the early nineteenth century most men have avoided colour and bright pattern, a trend marked by Beau Brummell's choice of plain and sober clothing. Victorian men adopted darker hues to emphasise their serious, god-fearing and industrious approach to life.

This continued into the twentieth century and, while the sixties signalled as temporary shift to colour and pattern for the young in particular, we seem to have returned to a period when both young and old prefer darker clothing, whether for formal or casual wear. Look at any high street, where drab hoodies, quilted coats and jeans predominate. Maybe this is a reflection of the times. Do we feel that here isn't much to be cheerful about in the world at the moment and does this reflect in our sober choices of clothing? 

Hockney's outfit at the OM luncheon is a welcome change. He has chosen to dress in a way that is comfortable and still reflects his character and interests. We may not all approve of the yellow Crocs, but the lighter coloured check tweed suit is a style that we could all adopt. Try patterned tweeds, bright knitwear, trousers in brighter hues, bold striped shirts and pastel contrasting socks to move away from this monochrome madness.

Marwood: Quality and Style

It's been a while since I caught up with Marwood, whose beautifully made and designed products combine style with quality. 

I asked Becky French, founder of Marwood, to bring us up to date:

DE: I've been following Marwood for many years now and indeed still wear a pair of your mohair socks that have outlived all my other socks by a factor of at least 10. Can you tell us something about Marwood and its products?

Becky: Thanks David. Yes Marwood’s mohair socks are very popular and it’s a shame to have run out of stock currently but I am hoping to replenish in the coming months and hold a sample sale of odd sizes for newsletter readers around Christmas. They are so soft, comfortable and legitimately last the test of time. I have had many emails and messages from people each year telling me how happy they are that it’s cold enough to wear the chunky ones again. It’s a good feeling to get such positive feedback.

I love to offer products that tick all the boxes. The aim is to create beautiful pieces in your wardrobe that you can’t quite find anywhere else… that is the main principle behind Marwood. At the moment a lot of the ties are one-of-a-kind and we are exploring made-to-order for next year. This adds to the uniqueness of our offering and hopefully shows we have a thoughtful approach to consumption.

DE: I've long admired your beautiful men's ties and see that you also sell homewear and lace - is there a common element to these different products?

Becky: Graphic geometric patterns, a monochrome palette (set amongst a rich array of colour), earthy textures and all made by traditional manufacturers in the UK. Our tagline is “outfitting life’s occasions” which gives me an open brief when it comes to designing products. We have an aesthetic and practical approach to a British lifestyle and all its occasions. We can cater to a black tie event or a walk in the hills in a meaningful way. We are looking to find the little corners of a person’s lifestyle that need some attention, hence why we ventured in to homeware as well. We are exploring an offering of textile art next.

DE: Is British manufacture and design important to you?

Becky: It has always been important for Marwood because we have made our products close to home with suitable makers that are the best at what they do. However I wouldn’t ever say we should only ever produce here. I am all about finding the best manufacturers for the job… keep products authentic to a manufacturer’s skillset and speciality. These relationships with suppliers are the backbone of any brand, so I believe in maintaining good, positive connections with our makers.

DE: You say that. 'We champion the idea of owning less and caring more about selective investment pieces'. How does this translate into the pieces that you sell?

Becky: I see our products as the opposite of fast fashion. They are thoughtfully designed and produced. The price point means they are an investment choice for most people, but I then think the lifespan of the products vouches for themselves. Marwood products have integrity.

DE: What is the future of Marwood?

Becky: I wish I could answer this but I just don’t know. It was such a fast growing, exciting business in its early years (since 2010), but then when wholesale business devolved, and I joined Turnbull & Asser five years ago, it became a side project. It is getting nurtured more now that I am freelancing for other brands and have more flexibility. I am enjoying the shoots (like this one with Rick Pushinsky and David Nolan) to bring some life back to the brand and the website and working with a small team of collaborators. At the end of the day, I love curating ranges, designing and making well-crafted pieces and connecting with people through imagery and art… so if Marwood continues to let me do this, then it will grow along with me. Let’s see what’s to come.

DE: Many thanks, Becky, for telling us about Marwood.

www.marwood.life

Charles William Alexander: Well-Engineered Pyjamas

Charles William Alexander is a new British brand making pyjamas differently. Founder Alex Massey founded the business after a background in engineering and construction, with a particular interest in classic Land Rovers. Using tools used in the automotive industry he designs the pyjamas so that they can be cut with minimal waste. 

Charles William Alexander Pyjamas

Interested in sustainable style and with a dislike of fashion's waste, Charles told me more about his thinking behind the business:

“The concept of CW Alexander came along around early 2021. I saw something that hadn’t been done before; this was very much engineer turned tailor.

From a young age I regularly helped my Mum sewing with many projects; I noticed the huge amount of waste in the fast fashion industry with the UK average of clothes only being worn twice before they were discarded.

CW Alexander Pyjamas have their own identities with a QR code tracking the manufacture date, place and style. One benefit of slow fashion pyjamas & underwear is they tend to be worn longer and not viewed as an "Accessory" that can only be seen once and is no longer useable. Choosing to give each set of pyjamas an identity gives the owner a connection to their purchase and a sense of ownership of something special, something unique, something that can be passed down.”

The pyjamas come in bright seventies colours with contrasting piping, such as the red I wear here. Made in the USA (where, as Charles points out, the seamstresses are paid fair wages) they are unisex, stylish and comfortable. A donation from each sale goes to Alzheimer's Research UK.

For more information and to buy, go to Charles William Alexander

From Formal to Casual With Denim & Chambray Shirts

The suit has had a hard time over the two or three years, with many forecasting its demise. My own view (link below) is that the suit survives, albeit in a modified form and here setbacks provide opportunities. Select the right shirt and you can change a suit's look to make it more versatile, as I show  you here.

I'm grateful to Thomas Pink shirts for sending me a denim and a chambray shirt to illustrate this feature. 

Thomas Pink denim shirt

Same suit; different looks. Chambray and denim shirts from Thomas Pink

While the formal business suit is undoubtedly on the wane, suits with a more comfortable cut and cloth can be worn either formally or casually, as the opportunity demands. Take a tweed or Prince of Wales check suit: worn with smart oxford shoes, a crisp white shirt and madder silk tie it can be worn to a formal or work meeting, but wear it with loafers, a denim or chambray shirt, cravat or neckerchief and it becomes a comfortable option for a  more casual look.

Denim and chambray reduce the formality of tailoring because they are both cloths with roots in workwear. Such shirts look more comfortable than a crisp business shirt made from a fine poplin, oxford or Sea Island cotton. As they age they soften and take on a patina of wear at the collar, seams and folds. A slight fraying at the edges adds to this comfortable look and is a godsend for those aiming to exude an air of sprezzatura*. 

Denim or Chambray?

Denim and chambray are woven from two different coloured yarns, usually indigo and white, giving them their characteristic slubby appearance. They are woven differently: denim tends to be thicker than chambray and has a different appearance on each side of the cloth, while chambray looks the same each side. Denim tends to fade much more markedly and this makes it the more casual looking of the two, particularly with its association with workwear since the nineteenth century and earlier. Due to its lighter weight and breathability, chambray is better for warmer weather.

*Sprezzatura: 'Studied carelessness'.

The shirts used in this post were from Thomas Pink

Heron's Ghyll: British-Made Tailored Elegance

Heron's Ghyll was founded in 2020 by Mark Francis in London and it takes that city's tailoring heritage and adds a romantic, cosmopolitan touch to produce clothes that don't fit any particular mould, but can be adapted to the needs and wishes of the wearer.

Heron's Ghyll: left blue & white striped linen. I wear (right) check lambswool Nehru

Mark sent me a sample Nehru jacket to try. I could wear it as streetwear with jeans, but decided that, with party season coming up, I'd style it for the usual (and rather meaningless) 'smart casual' or 'cocktail' or similar dress codes that accompany seasonal invitations.

The Purple Check Extrafine Lambswool Blazer that I borrowed is beautifully made, part-lined with silk and adorned with gold buttons. Worn with dress trousers, patent slippers and a while silk shirt it would pass muster for a black tie do. Paired with a lightweight roll neck sweater, jeans and suede loafers you could lunch with a friend at your local hostelry.

I wear Heron's Ghyll check lambswool Nehru jacket

Other jackets (some with matching trousers) come in wool, linen, denim, cotton, cashmere cotton or seersucker as Glen check, stripes, polka dots and plain fabrics, so there is something for every occasion and taste. They are mostly made to order, with delivery times around 4 weeks.

For more information about Heron's Ghyll, their jackets, matching trousers and accessories go to Heron's Ghyll.

Grenson Shoes: British Made

Grenson are a British brand who've been making shoes in Northamptonshire since 1866 and now also make overseas to ensure a wider choice to customers. I've not tried their products properly before and they kindly loaned me two pairs of shoes for this feature.

Wearing Grenson Archie triple-welted grain leather brogues

Grenson Archie (left) and Winchester (right)

I was keen to try the triple-welted Archie brogue and the black Winchester derbies, both made in Grenson's Northamptonshire factory. The Archie is an archetypal rubber-soled grain leather country shoe, robust and chunky and ideal for casual wear. The Winchester is a versatile and elegant leather-soled black calf shoe from the Classics Collection. While I'd wear it for business or, highly polished, with formal wear such as black tie the Winchester would also look good with denims or cords.

Styling the Grenson Archie brogue and Winchester derbies

Both shoes are beautifully made from excellent quality leather. I was only able to try them on carpet, but have little doubt that they are comfortable to wear. The two styles of shoe would make the perfect capsule footwear collection for almost every occasion. Their Goodyear welted construction means that they can be repaired multiple times, making them an good investment for the future if properly looked after with shoe trees and regular waxing and polishing.

Great shoes which I'll be reluctant to return. For more information and to buy, see Grenson Shoes.

Links:

Grenson Archie

Grenson Winchester

Colhays: British Made Knitwear

Colhays is a relative newcomer to the British-made knitwear scene. This is a crowded market and founder Ronnie Chiu has chosen to get round this potential problem by aiming unapologetically at the luxury end of the market. Furthermore his designs take a fresh look at shapes, colours and textures so that everything is very wearable and yet unique in feel or shape.

Ronnie Chiu founder of Colhays

I prefer not to write about products I haven't seen, handled and worn fairly extensively, but I was able to try these products at a press day. Knitwear is one of this things that has to be touched and tried to really appreciate and these are sumptuous in feel, quality and weight. 

Ronnie Chiu based his approach on two Scottish-made sweaters that his father bought with his first paycheck in the 1970s and still in existence. He determined to make quality and longevity a central part of Colhays - knitwear that could be passed through the generations.

Ronnie says:

“ My passion is in bringing back heirloom quality clothes that stand the test of time, the kind my grandfather and father would have worn and passed onto me, but making them relevant to people today by updating the styles and fits. My hope is to restore the relationship that once existed between craftsman and wearer by bringing to your attention the quality, care and expertise that have gone into every stage of manufacture - from the fibres used, to the skills of those who have created your garment; what makes the garment last so long. I think that you deserve to know, and the makers’ stories deserve to be heard.” 

From what I've seen of Colhays' products (links below), Ronnie has achieved what he set out to do and these are clothes that would be appreciated by anyone looking for British-made lasting high quality knitwear.

Trying Colhays' impressive knitwear products 

For more information go to Colhays website.

Sustainable Style: Neem London Pop Up Store in London

Neem London are displaying their sustainability credentials at a pop up store in Piccadilly Arcade London until Christmas, giving us the opportunity to see their wares at first hand.

I've talked a lot about Neem here on the blog. In a menswear world corrupted by greenwashing, inaccurate claims about ethical and environmental credentials, Neem is a brand that does its best to minimise the adverse aspects of clothing production. 

Wearing a Neem London Recycled Italian Sky Dobby Popover Shirt

Neem uses recycled materials, regenerative cotton and ethically produced merino wool in a range of comfortable and stylish shirts and accessories ideal for casual and smart wear. Furthermore, you can send your unworn clothes for recycling in return for credit to spend at Neem.

The pop up store is a curation of ten brands alongside Neem London, all with the emphasis on sustainability. One brand is Vyn Switzerland a Swiss brand who make sneakers in Italy that have components that can be exchanged when worn, so extending the life of the shoe.

The Neem + pop up store at 7 Piccadilly Arcade until Christmas

Visit the Neem London pop up at 7, Piccadilly Arcade, London SW1Y 6NH for the ten weeks up to Christmas. See Neem London for more information on the store and the brand.

This is a sponsored post.

Grey Fox x Cordings of Piccadilly - A Collaboration

It's an absolute delight for me to announce a collaboration with classic British brand, Cordings of Piccadilly. They are everything I love about British menswear. They've  been around since 1839 and have remained true to their solid, practical, quality British heritage (see links below).

Wearing the Cordings x Grey Fox cord suit and wool check tie

I've written before about British style and its influence on western menswear. From preppy American and Ivy League to contemporary Japanese street style, staples like tweed, corduroy suits, polo and covert coats and outdoor and country sportswear have become classics of style and fashion. Cordings' longstanding place in the heritage of British men's style makes it a great privilege to work with them to put together this small largely British-made collection.

The collection is designed to be the start of a capsule wardrobe. By this I mean that every can be paired with the others. Rich reds and natural green runs through the palette, with the textures of corduroy, brushed Shetland knits and earthy Loden holding it together and providing contrast and variety. 

The collection comprises five pieces:

• Two Shetland jumpers in a rich red and a mossy green (crew and V-neck respectively), made in Scotland. I was keen to have the wool lightly brushed as a nod to the heritage of Scottish knitwear (the jumpers are brushed using the dried spiky seed heads of the teasel plant). I also wanted to recall the popularity of brushed Shetland ('Shaggy Shetlands') as icons of preppy and Ivy League styles.
• A check wool tie. This is inspired by a vintage tie which I own, made in Scotland in the 1950s.
• A brown corduroy suit. This is based on one made for me by Cordings a few years ago and which proved very popular when I showed it on Instagram. My suit was made from Italian cord but I'm delighted to say that the collaboration suit is made from a similar corduroy made in England some years ago and found in the archives of Brisbane Moss. Like all Cordings' suits, it's tailored to a high standard but at an affordable price.
• A Loden 'Coldstream' coat. Based loosely on the double breasted coats worn by the five British Foot Guards regiments during the colder months, it's made in London from a gorgeous mix of alpaca and wool. The buttons are real buffalo horn. The luxury cloth means that it isn't heavy and the coat is comfortable and warm to wear during the colder months.

For more on these items, how we came to design them, their costs and how to buy, go to Cordings x Grey Fox

Follow me on Instagram to see more @greyfoxstyle

More about this collaboration: This is a sponsored collaboration with Cordings of Piccadilly. For me, collaborations are like buses; you wait ages and then they all arrive together. This collaboration is the second since the blog was founded nearly eleven years ago and I have a third coming soon (the first was launched last month here). I've long wanted to apply my tastes to a real collection. After so long curating Grey Fox I have a fair idea what I like and, more importantly, what you like. I welcome any comments and feedback - you can message or e-mail me from my Instagram account (above).

Dress Codes: What is Cocktail Attire?

Over the last few years the party dress codes of 'black tie', 'lounge suit' or 'smart casual' have been joined by 'cocktail attire'. If you Google the term you'll find that it's interpreted very widely. I've seen features on cocktail attire illustrated with everything from black tie, through lounge suits to smart casual, showing how unclear the code is. Here is my own interpretation of the dress code.

"...a code that allows for sophisticated creativity while remaining essentially formal"

The answer to the question 'what is cocktail attire?' is to see what isn't covered by the common existing dress codes, namely black tie, lounge suit, smart casual and casual. Cocktail comes just under black tie in terms of formality, is more creative than lounge suit and more dapper than smart casual. 

Ideas for Cocktail Attire Dress Code for Summer and Winter

A sophisticated look

With cocktail attire you're looking for a sophisticated look; nothing scruffy. Essential elements are: sharp tailoring, crisp shirt or thin knitted roll neck or other fine cashmere and good quality shoes (loafers, monks, oxfords - black or dark brown). 

For jackets; velvet is very dapper (perhaps as a smoking jacket), corduroy might work as a midnight blue well-tailored jacket worn with a crisp white shirt and knitted burgundy silk tie. A blazer is central to many a cocktail outfit and would work well with a tailored denim shirt.

I might wear a tie - although a well-cut shirt with collar undone with a jacket will work as long as the effect isn't too casual. I'd avoid bow ties.

Trousers are best tailored and may be dark-coloured, tartan, check or be borrowed from your evening suit; lighter colours would suit a summer cocktail party. Turn-ups (cuffs) are generally considered too informal for black tie evening suits but I'd happily wear them as part of cocktail attire.

No jeans, no trainers, no chunky country shoes and certainly no ties at half mast: either wear one properly or not at all. I'd personally avoid tweeds or tan shoes; these are just too country or daywear for a semi-formal look, but they could work for some if dapper enough. 

Colour

Cocktail allows creativity. Experiment with colour, remembering that the key is sophisticated formality. If you wear a dark suit, spice it up with a silk waistcoat or coloured shirt. Avoid overall black; cocktail is about celebration and you have the freedom to move away from monochrome. Rich midnight blues, velvet bottle greens and soft ochres give a sophisticated edge that bright primary colours lack, although these may suit a summer event.

In general too busy a pattern may lack the sophistication needed for cocktail, having said that I include a Fair Isle V-neck paired with a tie and a Bode short sleeved shirt for a summer event in the images here, so see what you think. Almost anything by way of a sophisticated patterned shirt or fine jersey will do when paired with crisp tailoring and good quality footwear.

Accessories

A smart vintage watch (leave the chunky diver or pilot's chronograph at home), cufflinks, pocket square, a discreet boutonnière, minimalist silk tie and perhaps a silk evening scarf will all add to the overall impression.

In summary: for 'Cocktail Attire' don't get too formal by straying into black tie but conversely don't stray too far into untailored casual wear.

Sustainable Style: Neem London Regenerative Cotton - Sponsored Feature

As consumers we've been warned recently about the perils of 'greenwashing', where brands make unrealistic or simply untrue claims about the sustainability of their products. It's always a relief to find brands that seem to take these issues seriously. One menswear company that is making genuine efforts to be open and honest about these issues is Neem London, a company that I've featured here several times before.

Wearing Neem London Cotton Shirt (Image @limityourexposuree)

Neem London Regenerative Sky Modern Button Down shirt

Neem go to great lengths to explain how they go about making their products green; such a level of detail is usually lacking from clothing brands' information. Their range of Regenerative Cotton shirts is an example in point. The cotton is grown using revolutionary methods that minimise water & fertilisation usage to help achieve a healthier ecosystem. The cotton is all traceable back to the farm that produced it. It's made into the shirts using recycled thread, fusing and buttons and its manufacture produces an extremely soft and breathable cloth.

The shirts are very wearable, comfortable and soft, bordering that line between casual and formal. I've worn them for both and they've become a key part of my wardrobe.

For more information here on the blog about Neem London - click here.

Neem London Regenerative Cotton Khaki Shirt Jacket

This is a sponsored post.

Laurence Fellows, Illustrator: When Style Upstaged Fashion

It's refreshing to look back at the illustrations of Laurence Fellows (1885-1964). His evocative drawings of men's styles from the thirties and forties (when he worked for Apparel Arts and Esquire and other publications) hark back to an era when maturity and sophistication, rather than the boyishly youthful looks of modern catwalks and advertising, sold menswear. 

As menswear advertising became youth-focused over the last forty or fifty years so looking well-dressed became secondary to following fashion. For young men, their clothes show that they're different from the previous generation; for most older men, clothes are the vehicle by which they express their self-confidence and personality. In very general terms, the young man follows fashion, the older finds his own style. 

In Fellows' time fashion existed of course, but style remained the ultimate aim - partly because most men had small wardrobes and were unable to afford the large (and unsustainable) volume of clothing of the modern man.

I find Fellows's illustrations rich in inspiration, especially now that vintage styles are influencing menswear. The last few years have seen a revival in interest in suits, hats, brogues, tweed and looser-fitting pleated trousers. Details like shawl collars, tweed caps, waistcoats, pin collar shirts, braces and double breasted coats have been inspired by the likes of Suits, Mad Men, Peaky Blinders and even Downton Abbey. These have encouraged men and women to look back for inspiration to a more sophisticated, sartorial age.

Historically, it was the older man who helped show the younger man learn how to dress properly, just as our grandfathers often helped our fathers. Young men are increasingly to be seen in tweeds and brogue, albeit with a contemporary twist. 

Thank heavens that classic looks remain immutably stylish. 

(This is an edit of a feature which I first posted here on the blog in August 2017).

A Summer for Stripes

Summer and stripes seem to go together perfectly. Is it stripy deckchairs on the beach, Breton sailor's jumpers, seaside rock (candy), rowing and cricket blazers, or maybe the striped awnings of summer marquees that form the association? Certainly there is a strong link to the sea, making stripes perfect for holiday and casual wear. [Links to suppliers at end of this feature]

Summer stripes

Shirt from Grey Flannel (also in yellow). 'Harry' pocket square Geoff Stocker

I love blue stripes in particular - they go well with whites and creams of course, but best with summery yellows, reds and oranges. A red striped shirt I own is also a favourite - for summer any bright candy colour suits the clear brightness of the light. 

The broader the stripes the more impact they have - they are less serious, more playful: the formality of the city stripe combining with the sunny cheerfulness of a yacht's spinnaker. Finer stripes are more restrained but still add a slightly flamboyant feel to a look.

Shirt (right) Community Clothing Co. Cravat Cravat Club

Fine stripes - L: Seersucker suit Grey Flannel. C: Shirt Connolly. R: Workwear Jaeger

The summer is a time to celebrate the sun and warmth with colours that reflect the fun of holiday pastimes: beach swimming, barbecues, surfing and reading in the shade. 

Shirt CEO's Legacy Shirts. Watch Tudor Heritage chronograph on striped nylon strap

Multicoloured striped lightweight scarves from Wallace Sewell

Shirts CEO's Legacy, seersucker suit Grey Flannel

Merino polo shirt Connolly, hat Tom Smarte, shorts Grey Flannel, slippers William Norman London, denim jacket vintage Lee Riders

Suppliers

[Note some of these products were loaned, some bought and some gifted for review]

Grey Flannel

Geoff Stocker 

Cravat Club

Connolly

Wallace Sewell

CEO's Legacy Shirts

Jaeger (at Marks & Spencer)

Tudor Watches

Tom Smarte

William Norman London