Military Wristwatches - Collecting Vintage Style

[Note: My apologies that I haven't posted for some weeks. security issues with the blog have  taken some time to sort out. I hope you enjoy this feature on collecting old military watches].

How many men do you know who are obsessed by collecting something? It may be cars, watches, clothes, cameras, books, golf clubs, rare birds, works of art or racing bikes. We're no doubt reflecting some ancient instinct which had us accumulating weapons, vital tools or whatever was required for our survival.

British military watches from the forties to sixties - collectible style

One item that a man of style might collect is watches. A watch says much about its owner - just as a what we wear reflects our tastes and personality. For those who like to focus their collecting impulses, I'd suggest looking for vintage military timepieces.

The last few years have seen a move towards smaller watches of plainer design. To many this is a welcome move away from the growth in watch sizes throughout the 90s and 00s when some watches soared to approaching 50mm in diameter. 

In the early to middle years of the last century a man's watch could measure anything from around 28mm in diameter; a watch of 36mm plus would have been relatively large. While 40mm is now considered average, watch companies are gradually reducing the size of men's watches again in response to the growth of the Asian market (where wrists are smaller), the popularity of men's watches for women and the increasing interest in smaller vintage watches. Small is becoming more sophisticated. 

What better than vintage military watches to fill this niche and to appeal to man's collecting instincts? They are around 34mm to 36mm in diameter, but stand out on the wrist because they were designed to be highly legible. The watches in these pictures were made for the British military between the forties and sixties, a vibrant period of military watchmaking, before electronics brought us rather soulless quartz watches. They are robustly designed with movements which are beautifully made and generally easy to maintain.

Five vintage military watches and a more recent military-inspired Seiko

Many can be bought from around £1000 to £2000 currently (some types for even less), though collectible ones like the Omega 53 or Mk11 navigators' watches made by Jaeger LeCoultre and IWC for astro-navigation can cost many times that. One watch to look out for is a watch made in England by Smiths for the British Army - the 'Smiths W10'. Smiths watches represent the end of a longstanding tradition of British watchmaking and the W10 can be bought for a reasonable figure as it isn't particularly rare. To be able to wear a watch made entirely in the UK - movement, case, dial and hands, is now unusual, although Bremont are slowly reviving British watchmaking.

Military watches should hold their value and in many cases appreciate. Watch prices are in a bit of a limbo at present as the cost of living soars, but in the long term such watches will, I'm sure, prove sound investments.

Inevitably, buying vintage military watches is a minefield - a lot of fakes are sold on eBay and even on watch fora and by dealers - get good advice before you take the plunge. Google 'Military Watches' and get to know the dealers, join a good military watch forum online and read and learn. The watches will need looking after, a service will be necessary every few years to keep the movement in top condition. The costs of this will soon eat into any investment value, but overall a well-chosen watch will give you years of pleasure and represent a fair investment.

[This feature is an update of a piece I posted in February 2012].  

Rotary x Protate Cancer UK '1IN4' Wristwatch

I had no idea until very recently that 1 in 4 black men will be diagnosed with prostate cancer during their lifetime, and more than 11,500 men die from prostate cancer in the UK each year – that's one man every 45 minutes!

The handsome new Rotary 1IN4 x Prostate Cancer UK watch 

To highlight these shocking statistics I am wearing the new Limited Edition 1IN4 watch that @Rotarywatches has designed in collaboration with Property Expert and TV presenter, @KunleBarker. The 1IN4 aims to increase awareness of prostate cancer and its increased risk amongst black men. There will only be 1000 timepieces available.

The Rotary x Prostate Cancer '1IN4' Wristwatch

Rotary will donate 10% + VAT from the sale of every 1IN4 watch to @ProstateCancerUK (Instagram tag) @ProstateUK (twitter tag) which will go towards helping more black men understand their prostate cancer risk and what they can do about it.

The Limited Edition 1IN4 timepiece is only available at rotarywatches.com and @fhindsjewellers nationwide.

*The featured Limited Edition 1IN4 watch has been gifted by @Rotarywatches. All donations will be made on behalf of the recipients by @Rotarywatches for all gifted Limited Edition 1IN4 timepieces*

#1in4watch #rotaryxprostatecanceruk #prostatecancer #onemanevery45minutes #menwearewithyou #ad

Monk Straps: The Cinderella of Shoes?

Monk strap shoes tend to be overlooked in favour of oxford, derbies, sneakers and loafers, but they offer both comfort and style and are worth your consideration when next buying shoes for casual or formal use. 

I wear Loake Medway suede monks (socks Peper Harow) - all made in England

I acquired my first pair (pictured above) only two or three years ago when I was looking for something a little different. A suede pair of single strap monks made in England by Loake, they have proved invaluable worn with everything from tweed, through formal suits to knitwear and jeans.

If you search for the history of the monk strap shoe you find references to medieval monks, but how this led to the adoption of the name for the shoe isn't clear. The general view seems to be that the style was developed in its present form early in the last century. Presumably the style reminded people of the strapped closed toed shoes that monks wore when their open-toed sandals were impractical for work outdoors as they let in stones and mud. 

I found an image (below) of a late 15th / early 16th century child's shoe from London's Victoria & Albert Museum which shows that buckled straps have been around for centuries. Although this is a shoe for a toddler, you can imagine monks wearing similarly simple but practical footwear. 

Child's strapped shoe late 15th/early16th century. Image V&A London

Advice on the web suggests that the monk strap shoe is semi-formal, somewhere between the oxford (formal) and derby (less so) with the double monk, which has two buckles on each shoe (see images below) being the more casual. Monks come in all sorts of leather and those in suede or with a brogued finish will be at the more casual end of the spectrum, while a plain pair in black calf would be ideal for more formal wear.

I'm wearing Loake single monk straps in black calf and suede

It's generally said that monks shouldn't be used with very formal wear such as black tie. I disagree. A single strap monk in polished black is an elegant and simple addition to evening wear. It's not uncommon to see men wearing monogrammed velvet slippers and even patent leather loafers with black tie so it's hard to understand how a simple, smart and stylish pair of highly polished monk shoes should be the cinderella at the ball.

Double & single monk straps (Loake Shoemakers)
I wear the black pair with formal evening wear

Click here to find out about the Loake English-made monk strap shoes.

With thanks to Loake Shoemakers for supplying the shoes and some of the images for this feature. 

A Guide to Perfect Trouser Leg Length

There has been much discussion about the sartorial tastes of Britain's latest Prime Minister, Rishi Sunak. His close fitting suits with cropped jackets and ankle length trousers proved controversial with some (see end of this feature), but his preference for having his trouser cuffs above his ankle bone is a reflection of the upward trajectory of trouser lengths over the last few years. 

While I personally wouldn't wear mine quite so short, I'd argue that the look is preferable to the trouser style of the former US President, Trump, whose trousers fold around his ankle and over his shoes - a look that is mercilessly untidy and unflattering.

Comparing trouser lengths, Sunak and Trump

The Ideal Trouser Length

So what is the ideal length for your trousers (or pants if you are from across The Pond)? As ever with matters of style, it's a matter of personal preference, but, as the above photos suggest, a shorter trouser length gives a cleaner look. Too short can give the appearance of a schoolboy who has outgrown his uniform, just as too long can give the opposite impression, that of the schoolboy whose parents are careful with money so have bought an oversize pair to ensure they last longer. There is a careful balance to be struck.

Guidance about trouser lengths usually discusses the 'break', the fold(s) caused by the cuff lying on the shoe. Significant breaks are now less often seen on those who profess to style. Trousers which taper nicely to a minimal or no break flatter the wearer, increasing the apparent of leg length and giving a neater look. Rishi Sunak is 1.7m (5' 7") and his shortened trousers with their clean line, to my eye, give him added apparent height.

My favoured trouser lengths

Turnups (or cuffs)

I've been having turn ups on my trousers for the last few years and, while I'm beginning to tire of them, this seems a good opportunity to share my thoughts on them. They do finish off more formal trousers nicely but I would avoid them on casual trousers as they fill with debris when worn on country walks. Jeans are hard to shorten without losing the stitching at the cuff (unless you're a dab hand with a sewing machine) so I tend to roll them up. Historically jeans were always sold at standard lengths so folding up the cuffs is a long and honourable tradition.

I wear my turn ups 2" deep. For those with slightly longer legs this works well, but for those with shorter legs I'd suggest 1.5" or 1.75" as deeper cuffs have a leg shortening effect.

Cropped Trousers

Cropped trousers, ending a couple of inches or more above the shoe, are a separate issue and are more of a fashion statement. They are associated in my mind (quite acceptably) with sockless summer wear with loafers, trainers or sandals or with the now rather overdone look of brogues on sockless feet. Cropped trousers look best with casual wear but many (such as Rishi Sunak) wear them tailored with suits and blazers where they give a more contemporary than classic look. 

Cropped trousers / pants - image The Sartorialist

And finally, below I cheekily reproduce a post from my Instagram grid from October 2022. Click here to see some of the wonderful (and less so) comments:

The Rules of Style & Buttoning Your Waistcoat

From time to time people contact me to complain about one or other aspect of a look that I've posted on Instagram. The last I received ticked me off for wearing a cardigan with the bottom button done up; and I suspect they were serious. This got me thinking generally about the 'rules' of style.

Image Whitfield & Ward Tailors who overlook the bottom button 'rule' for good reasons (see below)

There is a convention that the bottom button of a waistcoat (or vest to use its original name - still used in the US) is left undone. Several explanations can be found for this tradition. The most common is that King Edward VII's courtiers undid theirs to emulate their sovereign whose ample girth prevented him doing up every button of his waistcoat. It was perhaps a matter of etiquette: respect or politeness. As that particular King is long dead the convention could be said to have long lapsed. 

Whatever the origins of the habit, there is no 'rule' that demands that you leave said button undone. Look at the image below of a slim Edward VII (taken in 1882), what do you notice about the buttoning of his waistcoat / vest?

Edward VII Image National Portrait Gallery London

Waistcoats are often cut so that the bottom button can't be done up without affecting the line of the garment. That's a result of the convention. This is good enough reason to leave it undone; the cut makes it hard to do otherwise. My advice would be that, if the waistcoat is cut so that the bottom button can be done up, do just that. It will help cover your waistband and also look tidier (see the above image by Whitfield & Ward, Tailors (link below) - doesn't that look neat?) 

But however you want to play that one, there is no law, rule, etiquette, convention or tradition (going back to the recent complaint that I received) that demands that the bottom button of a cardigan be left unsecured. We often see buttons on cardigans (sleeved or sleeveless) left undone. This may be because the buttonholes have stretched and the buttons pop open, or it's an attempt at sprezzatura or in confusion over the waistcoat 'rules'. Or it may be that the cardigan is worn by a genuine sartorialist who has found the best way to wear the garment to make it look as good as possible - read on....

"If there are rules of style they are simply that you should wear clothes in a way that makes both the garment and you, the wearer, look as good as possible"

If there are any rules of style they are simply that you should wear clothes in a way that makes the garment look good and you, the wearer, feel comfortable. There are some ways of wearing clothes that look so bad that it's best to pretend there is a rule preventing them. Ties worn undone and at half mast look sloppy and it would look better to go tieless with collar undone. Wearing brogues without socks is a look has been overdone and is best avoided as it looks too studied. Wearing watches over shirt cuffs is just aping the style of Gianni Agnelli. Doing up the bottom button of a blazer or sports coat is inadvisable simply because doing so will usually spoil the line of the jacket because of its cut. But these are guidelines, not rules.

"The overarching question is not 'What is the rule?' but 'What looks best on you?'"

Good style arises from self confidence, wearing good quality clothes that fit well and, most importantly, not looking as if you've tried too hard. The best way to sprezzatura, the art of looking good without appearing to try, is to find your own style rather than copying slavishly what you see at Pitti Uomo or on Instagram or following irrational rules. 

The overarching question is not 'What is the rule?' but 'What looks best on you?'

[With thanks to Whitfield & Ward, Tailors, for permission to use their image above. This is an unsponsored post.]

Collected Articles on Style for Older Men

Early in the days of the blog (eleven years ago!) I began collecting articles on style for older men. I was looking through these recently and found that, while some are now quite old, they all contain good ideas so I've revived the feature and added some more recent material. If you know more, do let me know.

Older men with different styles - I'm with Svante @theurbanhippieswe

[Updated from the original 2011 feature] Here are a few of the better (and not too serious) newspaper and other articles on style and fashion for middle aged and older men. They are in no particular order; just as I find them. 

The important thing about fashion in middle age and beyond is that we are getting too old to take fashion seriously. Dress for yourself, feel comfortable, and don't listen to the fashion police.

What do I do? I keep an eye on Instagram and the better blogs for ideas, but try to use them to dress to suit my own personality rather than slavishly following transient fashions. Whatever you do, be careful about trying to relive lost youth by dressing like a teenager. It may work, if you have an extremely sophisticated sense of style, but you run the risk of looking a little sad. It's also unnecessary; we should be proud of our maturity - there are many classic styles ideal for the older man.

Photo The Sartorialist

Can you wear Topman at 67?
An interview in the Guardian with Nicky Haslam and his sense of fashion and style.

Old men dress cool
From one of my favourite bloggers, Style Salvage.

Take That:Style Icons for Older Men
An article in the Guardian. Take That!! Must be some mistake, surely?

Groovy Old Men: The Rise of the Silver Swingers
From the Independent, 'nuff said.

Can Middle-Aged Men Have Long Hair? 
From that excellent blogger, That's Not My Age.

Styles Middle-Aged Men Should Avoid If They Don't Want to Look Old: These Fashions Don't Make Anyone Look Young

Yahoo Voices.

Middle Aged-Men Who Dress Like Teenagers
Style Goes Strong

Newbie Fashion Tips for Grown-up Men
Stepcase Lifehack. This may seem a bit proscriptive, but is worth a read - most of the rules are sensible.

The Almost Shocking World of Older Men's Fashion
In a Grand Fashion reviews advice for older men. The article mentions Grey Fox as follows, "While there are many blogs for young, definitely under forty, I could find only one aimed at older, middle age men.  Grey Fox stresses dressing for one’s self instead of  for the latest fashion trend".

Why do men over 50 dress like tramps?
Mail Online. For personal reasons I avoid the Daily Mail. The standard of journalism is appallingly, with damaging and hurtful articles published with no proper research or regard for the truth. However, this is an unusually (for the Mail) sensible analysis and it is recommended reading.

Men stop caring about clothes at 37
Apparently the conclusion of a survey, apparently based on a survey, but I'm a bit suspicious about this one - it may be a dubious publicity stunt. Reported in the the Guardian here. Despite my doubts,  there is probably a degree of accuracy in these reports.

Fashion Tips for the Older Man
From the Belfast Telegraph - some interesting and useful comments about older men dressing well and not so well.

Medallion Man is Back - The Rise and Rise of Middle-Aged Vanity
From the Independent - not too bad, in parts. I agree with the warning that '...dignity is in danger of being jettisoned in the rush to drink at the fountains of eternal youth, or at least the rush to the hair dye kit, which is the next best thing'.

The humble Mamil: why we need 'middle-aged men in Lycra'
The Guardian. A nice defence of the MAMIL (middle-aged men in Lycra) by one of my favourite cycling writers, Matt Seaton.

Why do fathers insist on dressing like their teenage sons?
Which increasingly they seem to do although some sons adopt crisp shirts, chinos and brogues. See the picture which shows Tom Cruise and his son. Sydney Morning Herald.

The Sartorial Geniuses aged 60 plus
From The Telegraph - with wise words from blogger Tony Ton of jakandjil.com.

At the age of 37, you needn't start dressing like J*r*my Cl*rks*n
From The Guardian, a newspaper that I doubt Clarkson has ever read.

Skateboarding Past a Midlife Crisis
From the New York Times. Be careful, though; your bones have become more brittle as you get older.

Jeremy Paxman in tweeds is typical of the affliction that grips men in middle age
Hadley Freeman in the Guardian discusses older men's style. All about men reaching an age where they want to try something new. Some vestiges of truth here; maybe.

Why men over 40 are fashion disasters
From the Mail Online. The writer is mocked by his family for his dress sense. He suggests a few ideas, but this article is rather inconclusive, as I feel he doesn't really find a solution. He should find inspiration for his own style, grasp the nettle and confidently forge his own path. Not a happy outcome to this one.

How to dress well after 50
British GQ. Sensible with some interesting discussion; but nothing new.

Guys don't be a fashion disaster
Chicago Tribune.

Middle-aged men and their sad self-regard
The Independent. Sadly close to the bone; but then all ages are guilty of self-indulgence, not just older men.

Baseball caps, backpacks and an unlimited supply of flannel shirts: How middle-aged Silicon Valley CEOs compete with their twenty-something rivals

From the Mail Online - given that it's the Mail, it's a surprisingly good read (assuming it's not all made up). It reports, for example, how, 'One tech CEO admitted that he probably wouldn't be in his job if he had not shaved his grey hair and swopped brogues for sneakers to blend in.'

Fifty shades of silver fox: Blog celebrating stylish middle-aged men takes internet by storm

From the Mail Online again. About a blog called Grey Fox started by a middle-aged man called David Evans looking for style. Seems unlikely to me!

What's a man to wear when his pecs turn to 'soft peaks'?

Speak for yourself! From The Guardian.

Dressing your age - 40s
Dressing your age - 50s
Posts on the now dormant Fashionbeans - I don't agree with everything here, but basically sensible advice.

Marc Jacobs at 50
Showing that there's hope for us all in changing our lifestyles and getting fit. From Mail Online.

Male celebrities with grey hair
In case you find comfort in the thought that even they are getting older. From sofeminine.co.uk.

I want to feel like a new man
Guardian columnist has a makeover (apparently paid for by Hennessy - some makeover!)

The Vintage Years: is the fashion world starting to respect the middle-aged market?

More about the women's fashion market, but much is applicable to us chaps. From the Guardian.

How I Became a Fashion Don't A lovely response to a Details magazine article. Simon Doonan describes Katherine Wheelock as 'some kind of conservative anti-flamboyance watchdog for the colostomy-bag brigade'. Brilliant.

Dressing Up is a Sign of Vitality New York Times. Ari Seth Cohen, of the Advanced Style Blog, comments on the Wheelock and Doonan articles above.

Why older men are more stylish than young men A nice piece in The Telegraph, October 2014.

Men's style dilemma: Am I too old to wear this? This Telegraph piece makes some good points and concludes, correctly in my view, that the question is, 'Does this suit me?', not, 'Am I too old for this?'

Men become invisible at 39: Now they know how women feel. Again, from The Telegraph. Reports the conclusions of a survey, but then, as the man said, there's lies, damn lies and surveys.

Is it OK for men not to care about fashion?  The Telegraph (I'm impressed how this newspaper writes about age and style so much). Confuses fashion and style, doesn't add much to the discussion.

What makes certain men more stylish? The Telegraph. A thoughtful piece by David Gandy which comes to the same conclusion as I have in my writing. As I say in my comments at the top of this post, style is about dressing to suit your personality, not following trends. Recommended reading.

How to Dress you Age - Forties British GQ. Good, emphasises style rather than fashion and highlights fit.

How to Dress your Age - Fifties British GQ. Good stuff, based on advice not to give up and again emphasising the importance of fit.

How to Dress your Age - Sixties and Beyond British GQ. Based on the inaccurate (I think, anyway) assumption that most men over 60 want to look younger, but this doesn't affect what is essentially good advice.

20 Things No Man over 40 Should Wear Daily Telegraph. I don't like writing that tells a man what he should and shouldn't wear. We may make suggestions and give our opinion, but not presume to tell others what to do. This verges on that approach. However, I agree with much of it!

Tom Hanks is redefining dad style - Not a bad article at all. Some sound advice from US GQ.

How to Dress Your Age - some useful ideas in this Gentleman's Gazette piece.

And see my own scribblings on this blog, for example on middle aged men and jeans.

Real People: Style for Older Men - I Put This On kindly interviewed me on this topic - sound advice (of course ;)).

What not to wear if you are a man over 50: The Guardian March 2019. Some useful thoughts here and much I'm not so sure about. Worth a read.

Dad Style: How to dress well as an older man: I wrote this here on the blog some years ago when 'dad style' was much discussed. Looking back, I'm not sure I like all that I say here, but have a read and complain to the management if you're unimpressed.

Grey Fox Style on Instagram

The 20 Definitive style rules for men over 40: cargo shorts need not apply - this is one of those black and white advice columns that set my teeth on edge - do this, don't do that. You can always tell what they will be like when you read the word 'rules' in the title. There are no rules - there are guidelines. While I confess I do follow some of their 'rules', I don't believe in being so proscriptive.

Dressing the older man: I came across this nicely considered piece in a blog I was unaware of before, Masculine Style. He makes the important point that staying in shape helps. Otherwise there is little you haven't read browsing the selection above, but a nice summary of thoughts for the older man in search of style.

Experience Required: Style Lessons from Men in Their Sixties: (August 2022) I had just about given up looking for decent articles on style for older men when I found this on Mr Porter's site. It makes a nice change actually interviewing stylish older men rather than telling them what they should or shouldn't be wearing. 

Ten Tips on What to Wear for Older Men by ace personal stylist, Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab.

What Are Men Wearing Now? NY Times. A useful style update.

Photo Tommy Ton - GQ

Ralph Lauren Autumn Winter '22: Honouring Roots and British Style

For Autumn/Winter 2022 Ralph Lauren Polo (link below) say they honour their "roots of distinctive details, tradition in textiles, and time-honored tailoring". The two videos below show their collections for men and women. It's interesting to see the strong British influence that underlies the American Ralph Lauren brand: tweeds and cloths from British mills, country life and sports, mountains, rugby football, a classic Land Rover, the Aston Martin, a steaming cup of tea and the heritage of the English country house. 

Ralph Lauren Shetland Tweed Jacket - Abraham Moon & Sons England cloth

Ralph Lauren's preppy and Ivy League looks owe much historically to British styles. Ralph Lauren himself said in an interview with Esquire in 2014, "England has always inspired my style and designs, and my respect for things that have a quality the more they are worn. The British have a true appreciation for heritage and tradition...."

So, the U.S. Ralph Lauren brand oozes British menswear heritage and styles - what British brands do the same? See here for my thoughts on this question: British Style: Is It Time for a Revival?

 

See Ralph Lauren.

Evelyn Waugh: The Comfort and Style of a Tweed Suit

The Italian word 'sprezzatura' perfectly describes that rather dishevelled but Oh-so-English look of a well-used tweed suit, as worn with such aplomb by so many men in the early half of the twentieth century. I came across the image below of author Evelyn Waugh which perfectly illustrates that casual, crumpled and unselfconscious English style. How can we emulate that comfortable tweedy appearance today?

Evelyn Waugh by Mark Gerson 1963

Waugh's suit appears to be a heavyweight tweed (they would normally have been fairly robust cloth in those days) in a shepherd check. As is normal with a well-worn-in tweed, it looks as comfortable as an old jumper and pair of jeans might be to us today. Men were used to wearing tailoring in those days, and Waugh would have thought nothing of throwing himself down on the sofa for a post-prandial nap fully clothed in his three-piece.

It's this slightly disordered but so natural and unforced look, the result of wearing a suit day in and day out, that's often admired in the English (or more strictly British) man of that era. Sadly today's man has largely abandoned tailoring in favour of casual wear or that mix of leisure and sports wear, 'athleisure', that, while possibly easy to wear, lacks elegance or style. 

The art of wearing tailoring for relaxation has been lost and today it's felt that sloppy and shapeless is necessary for easy wear. Evelyn Waugh shows us that this is a mistaken view. Tweed is a casual cloth, designed originally for easy movement outdoors, retaining its shape and protecting the wearer from the elements. A good quality cloth is soft, robust and lightweight, moulding readily to the body. Its forgiving nature means that it doesn't need to be treated with care, like a flannel business suit. 

Worn well the tweed suit combines effortless style with comfort. Let's buy more tweed suits (I suggest some sources of new and vintage tweeds below).

Waugh wears a houndstooth check tweed suit with a jaunty buttonhole

Vintage Tweed Suits

If you like your tweed suit traditional and heavy duty, try a vintage example. I bought a Harris tweed suit that must have been over 60 years old some years ago. The tweed was very heavy and you will find this is common with older suits. After some alterations it fitted well, but was too warm for indoor wear. 

If you buy online check with the seller for moth holes, torn linings and a general smell of damp, age or mothballs. And of course you should ask for detailed measurements, comparing them to a suit that you know fits. Aim for minimal alterations as too great a change to size isn't always successful.

Here are a few links - you may find more:

Hornets Vintage

Savvy Row

Fogey Unlimited

New Tweed Suits

Any tailor will be delighted to make a tweed suit - whether made to measure of fully bespoke will depend on your budget and preferences. Ready to wear (RTW) is the affordable option and most stores and tailors will alter a suit to fit as well as possible. 

Here are a few suggested links - there are many more out there and I've confined myself to a few stores and tailors I know or have experience of:

Dege & Skinner for the full bespoke Savile Row experience and a suit that will fit to perfection.

Susannah Hall - British made suits.

Cordings of Piccadilly - their affordable RTW suits are made of the best tweed. They fit me perfectly, but they will alter for you if needed.

Campbell's of Beauly - in Scotland near Inverness: a tweed heaven offering RTW and bespoke tailoring. They specialise in estate tweeds. This is a topic on its own, but many Scottish sporting estates have since Victorian times developed their own tweeds, the colours and patterns reflecting the colours of their local rock, heather, water and skies.

David Hockney's Yellow Crocs And Why is Menswear So Boring?

The recent sight of David Hockney wearing yellow Crocs at an Order of Merit meeting at Buckingham Palace caused a stir in the Press. Crocs - in front of His Majesty! 

As a man of style, King Charles took it all in his stride of course, commenting, "Your yellow galoshes! Beautifully chosen." But how significant is it that such a striking choice of footwear should make such an impact? Is it because many of us are now wearing menswear that is dingy, dark and dull; that we aren't used to seeing displays of sartorial sassiness in men? 

How often does what we wear reflect our personalities rather than simply an acquired look or trend?

Light in the gloom.
Hockney's Crocs (and the women) light up a monochrome OM luncheon meeting.

The above image of those attending the Order of Merit luncheon shows how men's formal business wear is traditionally dark: black or dark blues predominate. This is nothing new. Since the early nineteenth century most men have avoided colour and bright pattern, a trend marked by Beau Brummell's choice of plain and sober clothing. Victorian men adopted darker hues to emphasise their serious, god-fearing and industrious approach to life.

This continued into the twentieth century and, while the sixties signalled as temporary shift to colour and pattern for the young in particular, we seem to have returned to a period when both young and old prefer darker clothing, whether for formal or casual wear. Look at any high street, where drab hoodies, quilted coats and jeans predominate. Maybe this is a reflection of the times. Do we feel that here isn't much to be cheerful about in the world at the moment and does this reflect in our sober choices of clothing? 

Hockney's outfit at the OM luncheon is a welcome change. He has chosen to dress in a way that is comfortable and still reflects his character and interests. We may not all approve of the yellow Crocs, but the lighter coloured check tweed suit is a style that we could all adopt. Try patterned tweeds, bright knitwear, trousers in brighter hues, bold striped shirts and pastel contrasting socks to move away from this monochrome madness.

Marwood: Quality and Style

It's been a while since I caught up with Marwood, whose beautifully made and designed products combine style with quality. 

I asked Becky French, founder of Marwood, to bring us up to date:

DE: I've been following Marwood for many years now and indeed still wear a pair of your mohair socks that have outlived all my other socks by a factor of at least 10. Can you tell us something about Marwood and its products?

Becky: Thanks David. Yes Marwood’s mohair socks are very popular and it’s a shame to have run out of stock currently but I am hoping to replenish in the coming months and hold a sample sale of odd sizes for newsletter readers around Christmas. They are so soft, comfortable and legitimately last the test of time. I have had many emails and messages from people each year telling me how happy they are that it’s cold enough to wear the chunky ones again. It’s a good feeling to get such positive feedback.

I love to offer products that tick all the boxes. The aim is to create beautiful pieces in your wardrobe that you can’t quite find anywhere else… that is the main principle behind Marwood. At the moment a lot of the ties are one-of-a-kind and we are exploring made-to-order for next year. This adds to the uniqueness of our offering and hopefully shows we have a thoughtful approach to consumption.

DE: I've long admired your beautiful men's ties and see that you also sell homewear and lace - is there a common element to these different products?

Becky: Graphic geometric patterns, a monochrome palette (set amongst a rich array of colour), earthy textures and all made by traditional manufacturers in the UK. Our tagline is “outfitting life’s occasions” which gives me an open brief when it comes to designing products. We have an aesthetic and practical approach to a British lifestyle and all its occasions. We can cater to a black tie event or a walk in the hills in a meaningful way. We are looking to find the little corners of a person’s lifestyle that need some attention, hence why we ventured in to homeware as well. We are exploring an offering of textile art next.

DE: Is British manufacture and design important to you?

Becky: It has always been important for Marwood because we have made our products close to home with suitable makers that are the best at what they do. However I wouldn’t ever say we should only ever produce here. I am all about finding the best manufacturers for the job… keep products authentic to a manufacturer’s skillset and speciality. These relationships with suppliers are the backbone of any brand, so I believe in maintaining good, positive connections with our makers.

DE: You say that. 'We champion the idea of owning less and caring more about selective investment pieces'. How does this translate into the pieces that you sell?

Becky: I see our products as the opposite of fast fashion. They are thoughtfully designed and produced. The price point means they are an investment choice for most people, but I then think the lifespan of the products vouches for themselves. Marwood products have integrity.

DE: What is the future of Marwood?

Becky: I wish I could answer this but I just don’t know. It was such a fast growing, exciting business in its early years (since 2010), but then when wholesale business devolved, and I joined Turnbull & Asser five years ago, it became a side project. It is getting nurtured more now that I am freelancing for other brands and have more flexibility. I am enjoying the shoots (like this one with Rick Pushinsky and David Nolan) to bring some life back to the brand and the website and working with a small team of collaborators. At the end of the day, I love curating ranges, designing and making well-crafted pieces and connecting with people through imagery and art… so if Marwood continues to let me do this, then it will grow along with me. Let’s see what’s to come.

DE: Many thanks, Becky, for telling us about Marwood.

www.marwood.life

Bell & Ross BR V2-92: A Practical and Versatile Watch

I always enjoy trying a watch brand I haven't worn before. I've known and admired Bell & Ross's timepieces from afar so was pleased to borrow one of their Vintage Collection to try for a few days.  

The Bell & Ross V2-92 Aéronavale watch

Bell & Ross were founded in 1992 to make robust watches for professionals such as pilots, divers and military personnel. They became known for their square watches, based on aeroplane cockpit instrumentation. They have supplied the French Air Force and motor racing teams as well, of course, as the man and women in the street. They make their watches in Switzerland.

I tried the Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Aéronavale, a 41mm automatic mechanical watch with a beautiful deep blue sunray dial, a bi-directional rotating bezel, 100m water resistance, screw-down crown and transparent case back giving a view of the movement. It has a distinct vintage pilot's watch vibe and has a real presence on the wrist, especially on the matching deep blue calfskin strap (it also comes of a steel bracelet).

The clean looks give the watch a contemporary feel and, while the Sellita-based movement has no claims to being chronograph tested, it kept extremely good time for the few days I wore it. At £2700 on the leather strap, this is a fair-priced watch which will fit well into the stylish person's wardrobe as it goes well with jeans and knitwear or a suit and tie. An all-round practical and yet very handsome watch.

See Bell & Ross.

Charles William Alexander: Well-Engineered Pyjamas

Charles William Alexander is a new British brand making pyjamas differently. Founder Alex Massey founded the business after a background in engineering and construction, with a particular interest in classic Land Rovers. Using tools used in the automotive industry he designs the pyjamas so that they can be cut with minimal waste. 

Charles William Alexander Pyjamas

Interested in sustainable style and with a dislike of fashion's waste, Charles told me more about his thinking behind the business:

“The concept of CW Alexander came along around early 2021. I saw something that hadn’t been done before; this was very much engineer turned tailor.

From a young age I regularly helped my Mum sewing with many projects; I noticed the huge amount of waste in the fast fashion industry with the UK average of clothes only being worn twice before they were discarded.

CW Alexander Pyjamas have their own identities with a QR code tracking the manufacture date, place and style. One benefit of slow fashion pyjamas & underwear is they tend to be worn longer and not viewed as an "Accessory" that can only be seen once and is no longer useable. Choosing to give each set of pyjamas an identity gives the owner a connection to their purchase and a sense of ownership of something special, something unique, something that can be passed down.”

The pyjamas come in bright seventies colours with contrasting piping, such as the red I wear here. Made in the USA (where, as Charles points out, the seamstresses are paid fair wages) they are unisex, stylish and comfortable. A donation from each sale goes to Alzheimer's Research UK.

For more information and to buy, go to Charles William Alexander

From Formal to Casual With Denim & Chambray Shirts

The suit has had a hard time over the two or three years, with many forecasting its demise. My own view (link below) is that the suit survives, albeit in a modified form and here setbacks provide opportunities. Select the right shirt and you can change a suit's look to make it more versatile, as I show  you here.

I'm grateful to Thomas Pink shirts for sending me a denim and a chambray shirt to illustrate this feature. 

Thomas Pink denim shirt

Same suit; different looks. Chambray and denim shirts from Thomas Pink

While the formal business suit is undoubtedly on the wane, suits with a more comfortable cut and cloth can be worn either formally or casually, as the opportunity demands. Take a tweed or Prince of Wales check suit: worn with smart oxford shoes, a crisp white shirt and madder silk tie it can be worn to a formal or work meeting, but wear it with loafers, a denim or chambray shirt, cravat or neckerchief and it becomes a comfortable option for a  more casual look.

Denim and chambray reduce the formality of tailoring because they are both cloths with roots in workwear. Such shirts look more comfortable than a crisp business shirt made from a fine poplin, oxford or Sea Island cotton. As they age they soften and take on a patina of wear at the collar, seams and folds. A slight fraying at the edges adds to this comfortable look and is a godsend for those aiming to exude an air of sprezzatura*. 

Denim or Chambray?

Denim and chambray are woven from two different coloured yarns, usually indigo and white, giving them their characteristic slubby appearance. They are woven differently: denim tends to be thicker than chambray and has a different appearance on each side of the cloth, while chambray looks the same each side. Denim tends to fade much more markedly and this makes it the more casual looking of the two, particularly with its association with workwear since the nineteenth century and earlier. Due to its lighter weight and breathability, chambray is better for warmer weather.

*Sprezzatura: 'Studied carelessness'.

The shirts used in this post were from Thomas Pink

The Barn by Chrono24: A Pre-Owned Watch Partnership

Buying secondhand and vintage watches can be daunting. Most dealers offer a short warranty, but very few have inspected and, where necessary, serviced and repaired a watch before sale. The watch seller that does is The Barn by Chrono24 (previously Xupes) where watches can be confidently bought and sold online. 

The Barn by Chrono24 in Bishop's Stortford north of London

The Barn by Chrono24

Most importantly for watch buyers, the business will work alongside The Watch Atelier where watches are serviced and repaired by award-winning watchmakers.

I was shown around the grade II listed barn which houses The Barn by Chrono24 and met founder Joe McKenzie who sees the Barn as providing a comfortable experience to customers and staff alike in Soho House Group furnished surroundings just outside London. Here watches can be examined in comfort before purchase (or taken to be sold) and the impressive workshop can be seen through large viewing windows.

Meeting Richard West and Megan Young, Watchmakers of the Year

I was introduced to watchmakers Megan Young and Richard West, WatchPro Watchmakers of the Year 2022. They run an impressively equipped state-of-the-art workshop in which timepieces are checked for sale and any necessary repairs and restoration undertaken. The Watch Atelier offers these services to all - you don't have to have bought your watch through Chrono24 - and they offer a 24 month warranty on all such work.

I was very impressed by what I saw and heard of The Barn by Chrono24 and, importantly, would feel totally confident in buying (or selling) a watch, or having one serviced or repaired there.

The Barn by Chrono24

The Watch Atelier

If Xupes and The Barn look familiar to you, you may have seen it featured on Channel 4's Second-Hand For Fifty Grand which looks at the market for pre-owned luxury items such as watches and handbags.

This is an unsponsored feature.

Heron's Ghyll: British-Made Tailored Elegance

Heron's Ghyll was founded in 2020 by Mark Francis in London and it takes that city's tailoring heritage and adds a romantic, cosmopolitan touch to produce clothes that don't fit any particular mould, but can be adapted to the needs and wishes of the wearer.

Heron's Ghyll: left blue & white striped linen. I wear (right) check lambswool Nehru

Mark sent me a sample Nehru jacket to try. I could wear it as streetwear with jeans, but decided that, with party season coming up, I'd style it for the usual (and rather meaningless) 'smart casual' or 'cocktail' or similar dress codes that accompany seasonal invitations.

The Purple Check Extrafine Lambswool Blazer that I borrowed is beautifully made, part-lined with silk and adorned with gold buttons. Worn with dress trousers, patent slippers and a while silk shirt it would pass muster for a black tie do. Paired with a lightweight roll neck sweater, jeans and suede loafers you could lunch with a friend at your local hostelry.

I wear Heron's Ghyll check lambswool Nehru jacket

Other jackets (some with matching trousers) come in wool, linen, denim, cotton, cashmere cotton or seersucker as Glen check, stripes, polka dots and plain fabrics, so there is something for every occasion and taste. They are mostly made to order, with delivery times around 4 weeks.

For more information about Heron's Ghyll, their jackets, matching trousers and accessories go to Heron's Ghyll.

Tusting x Grey Fox - A Backpack Collaboration

I'm delighted to announce another collaboration with one of my favourite British brands. Tusting has been a family-run leather business since 1875 and many of their craftsmen and women come from families who've worked for Tusting for generations. I've worked with them to design a stylish and practical tweed and leather backpack which is made to order. 

Here are a few words about the collaboration:

"As a lover of everything British-made, it’s a real privilege to have worked with Tusting on this backpack. It started some time ago when I visited their factory and spotted a gorgeous heavy tweed in their archive. Made by Lovat Mill of Scotland it was designed as an extremely robust tweed whose high twist yarn construction provides natural water resistance, making it perfect for its original intended use for outdoor and country activities. 

After some discussion, and a couple of sample iterations, a final prototype backpack was made, and I have used it extensively for over two years to ensure that every detail of practicality, construction, comfort and robustness was just right. 

We used Tusting’s Crazy Horse leather which I was familiar with as I’ve been using a Tusting Clipper bag for many years and I loved the way it has gained a beautiful patina of use but shown no signs of wear. 

I selected a bright Guards’ tunic red for the lining both to provide a cheerful contrast to the tweed and also to acknowledge family links to the five Foot Guards regiments of the Household Division. 

I’m enormously proud of this product featuring the best of British manufacture. Packed with useful pockets and compartments, this is a well-tried and comfortable backpack which I’ve used for everything from business trips to country dog walks and which has stood up perfectly to several years of use."

We've worked hard to make a practical, robust, comfortable and stylishly retro backpack. After using the prototype for over two years I'm confident that the Tusting x Grey Fox backpack is all these things. For more information and to order, see Tusting's website

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Note: This is a collaboration between Tusting and Grey Fox Blog - see also on Instagram @greyfoxstyle

Grenson Shoes: British Made

Grenson are a British brand who've been making shoes in Northamptonshire since 1866 and now also make overseas to ensure a wider choice to customers. I've not tried their products properly before and they kindly loaned me two pairs of shoes for this feature.

Wearing Grenson Archie triple-welted grain leather brogues

Grenson Archie (left) and Winchester (right)

I was keen to try the triple-welted Archie brogue and the black Winchester derbies, both made in Grenson's Northamptonshire factory. The Archie is an archetypal rubber-soled grain leather country shoe, robust and chunky and ideal for casual wear. The Winchester is a versatile and elegant leather-soled black calf shoe from the Classics Collection. While I'd wear it for business or, highly polished, with formal wear such as black tie the Winchester would also look good with denims or cords.

Styling the Grenson Archie brogue and Winchester derbies

Both shoes are beautifully made from excellent quality leather. I was only able to try them on carpet, but have little doubt that they are comfortable to wear. The two styles of shoe would make the perfect capsule footwear collection for almost every occasion. Their Goodyear welted construction means that they can be repaired multiple times, making them an good investment for the future if properly looked after with shoe trees and regular waxing and polishing.

Great shoes which I'll be reluctant to return. For more information and to buy, see Grenson Shoes.

Links:

Grenson Archie

Grenson Winchester